WIP: Bedside shelves

[zenwood]

Boys 1 and 2 are in a bunk bed against a wall and need somewhere to put their books, etc. I wanted something simple, quick and cheap.
So: crapiata pine from bunnings, and Ozziejig joinery. Here goes...

1. Initial design, leading to ...
2. final design. Initial design was too complicated, with the central bit. The proportions were changed after measuring the space available and the size of standard bookcases around the house.
3. Trip to bunnies, yielded some boards without too many knots, broken bits, etc.
4. After ripping the boards to width, clean up with a jointer plane. Boards ganged up to make it easier to get a 90° edge, as shown in pic 5.

[Wongo]

Zenwood, you've been busy my friend. Good on you

[zenwood]

1. Faces on Bunnings boards are dirty and sometimes show deep planer marks. They also have annoying stickers on them which are really hard to get off. Some work with a hand plane solves all these problems. The pencil marks show where I've yet to go with the plane.
2. A very nice surface is left behind by the smoother.
3. Cupped boards need the jack for faster flattening.
4. The top of the sides have a curved profile. These were cut on the bandsaw, and await smoothing with a rasp and spokeshave.
5. No 2 son lending a helping hand with the rasp.

[zenwood]

1. The spokeshave leaves a nice surface on the pine endgrain.
2. Overview of the setup
3. Time to whip out the Ozzie MultiJig. The carcase joints are the only ones that need any marking out.
4. Each joint has 7 x 8mm dowels. Once a few holes are drilled, stick in a couple of dowels, remove the clamp, and drill the remaining holes.
5. Holes in carcase joint ready for test-fitting. I mark each joint with little arrows that remind me which are the right surfaces to register the jig against.

[zenwood]

1. Three dowels per joint are sufficient for test-fitting. If I test-fit with all the dowels it would be very hard to get them apart again for gluing.
2. Test-fit: all looks ok
3. Glue in the holes: dribble two squirts of glue into two opposite sides of hole, concentrating on where the long grain in the dowel will meet long grain in the work. Hammer in all the dowels and clamp together. The precision of the Ozzie Multijig means that you know the dowels will line up. I've only got 4 of these clamps. So did one set of shelves last night, and the other set this morning. The photo looks like some good planning went into making sure the length of these shelves were still able to be clamped. This was pure luck:eek:, I never think that far ahead. Good when your luck averages out evenly like this .

That's all for this weekend. Still to come: putting back on, and adding the french batten for hanging. Have to try to match stain to existing pine bunkbeds. That could be interesting...

[LineLefty]

Nice work zen, Some fine tools there. Can you explain the cross hatch pattern on the boards. You use them for flattening I know but I'd like to hear your process. That must be one mighty fharp spokeshave!

PS you're a brave man leaving that LN jointer precariously balanced on that pine. IT could move or warp before your eyes and send it clattering to the concrete floor!

[zenwood]

Wongo: cheers

LL: The cross hatching is a visual aid. The pencil marks will disappear on the high spots first. I plane longways, crossways, holding the plane at 45 to left and right. I do it locally so I'm not constantly walking along the length of the board. When all the pencil marks are gone, I stop. This produces a clean, and reasonably flat surface (locally flat: i.e. over probably a few plane lengths); flat enough for this project. If I wanted a genuinely flat surface, I'd go the whole hog, checking with winding sticks and straightedges.

That #7 ain't goin' nowhere. Those boards are securely clamped to the bench with the handscrews.

Oh yeah: it's a freshly scary-sharpened spokeshave. See the endgrain shavings in the background. Always nice when you get endgrain shavings.

[LineLefty]

LN's are fall proof anyway aren't they?

PS glued up the coffee table top on the weekend, jointing 2 inch jarrah by hand is a pita! Weighs a bloody tonne as well.

[Andy Mac]

Looks good Zenwood!

And it seems as if you have a willing helper too...does he stick to the rasp, or move up to using the spokeshave!?
Just a quick question though, why use pine from Bunnies when you have all that lovely Oregon (or did we agree it was old growth WRC) that you scored?
Cheers,

[zenwood]

does he stick to the rasp, or move up to using the spokeshave!?

He left the shed while I was sharpening the spokeshave. Endgrain shaving might be a bit tricky for him, but he loves using it along the grain of his samurai swords.

Just a quick question though, why use pine from Bunnies when you have all that lovely Oregon (or did we agree it was old growth WRC) that you scored?

It's a bit too thick, Andy, but I might use it for a side table that I want to make in the near future.

LL: I guess there's a reason jointing machines were invented. Still, think of the bicep development. Gonna post pics of the table?

[LineLefty]

Not yet, I have to plane it all first, it looks like the dogs breakfast at the moment.

[Harry72]

Makin me jealous with them besseys!

[zenwood]

Oh yeah: I'm in love with my Besseys

[zenwood]

Well, we've made some progress on this during the week.

1. Drilling pilot holes for the screws holding the plywood back on;
2. Good job for No. 2 son...
3. with dad proudly looking on;
4. Pilot holes all done, shift the plywood a bit and do the clearance holes;
5. Little bit o' glue...

[zenwood]

1. Spread the glue with MkI finger...
2. To a (fairly) even film;
3. Put plywood in position and screw down. Two screws at oppostie corners placed by hand directly into their pilot holes will ensure that all the other clearance holes align with their pilot holes. Use one of those little lithium powered screwdrivers to screw down until...
4. the countersink is nicely level with the surface. But of screw slot damage happening here due to lack of a clutch on this little screwdriver. Never mind---this is a quick project.
5. After the glue has dried, plane the plywood flush with the sides;