Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 62
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default WIP: Bedside cabinet

    Was halfway through making a bedside cabinet for daughter when she said it would be nice if I could make two. I've now just finished the first, so thought I'd post a diary as i make the second one.

    The timber for the carcase is Southern Myrtle. It's been sitting in my workshop for the last 2 weeks. Size is 125 x 25 nominal, but in fact is quite a bit thicker. It's pretty straight, and some of the pieces I bought for the first cabinet have a beautiful figure, si I hope that's the case with this lot.

    Day 1
    First step is to look at the timber for any unuseable stuff. There are only two bad knots that I can work around. Also, one board appears to have some exceptional figure.

    Next, mark the pieces that will be cut from each board. In particular, use the really good pieces where they will be shown to best advantage.

    Finally, after measuring several times, cut to manageable lengths.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Kansas, USA
    Posts
    656

    Default

    Let the saw dust fly
    JunkBoy999
    Terry

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 2 (Part 1)

    First, put all the boards over the jointer to give a flat face and edge. This revealed some hitherto unnoticed splits in one piece, so put it aside and get another (always pays to have a little bit more than you need).

    Rip each board to parallel on the TS, just taking off enough to give parallel edges with no splinters missing from the corners.

    I want the finished thickness to be about 19mm, and the boards are well above this. I'll need some laminations for the bow-front drawer, so put the boards through the bandsaw and resaw them to 22mm. I would never have tried this before I got my Henry Bros blade. It took only 45 minutes to do 14 metres of 125mm myrtle.

    Thickness the boards down to 19.5mm. I like to put the side that went over the jointer first through the thicknesser, as it gives a better finish. (it will be hand planed later anyway.)

    As you can see, I obtained some decent pieces to use as laminations.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 2 (Part 2)

    The laminations have to be dressed to a thickness of about 2.5mm. I made up a sled to carry them through the thicknesser from laminex-faced chipboard (last photo).

    After cutting to width, arrange the laminations in order, so that the best one will be in front and any imperfections are in the middle. The form is made from MDF with some woodfiller patching, and covered with clear packing tape so the glue doesn't stick to it.

    I always like to do a dry set-up even though I know it's going to work.

    Need to have everything to hand before starting the glue-up. It's a cool day, so should have plenty of time, but.... I'm using Techniglue epoxy, which is excellent for laminating.

    It's important to get the proportions (2:1) right, so I put 2 dobs of part 1 and 1 dob of part 2 side by side. That way you can make sure they are all the same size. Make sure the spatula is clean before getting each part out.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 2 (part 3)

    The glue has to be thoroughly mixed. As it generates its own heat when mixed, spread it out to dissipate the heat and stop it going off too quickly.

    Put a thin smear of glue on each surface to be laminated. It does not need to be buttered on thickly - just enough to cover the surface.

    Clamp it to the form, starting from the centre and working to the ends. Keep checking that all laminations are sitting on the base of the form. As they say, you can never have too many clamps.

    There's a bit of glue left over, so I put a mix of pigments (umber, ochre and venetian red) in to approximately match the tone of the timber, but be a little darker. Use this to patch up a few little knot-holes.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 2 - the result

    Not a bad day's work - all the carcase timber cut to size and machined, and the first set of laminations glued up.

    First job tomorrow - empty the dust collector.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Age
    61
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Alexs, I am really enjoying this trip. getting some inspiration to tackle a similar job, keep it coming
    Girls often run through my mind, they dare not walk...

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Jo'burg South Africa
    Age
    70
    Posts
    83

    Default

    Great thread Alex.
    Did you thickness to flatten other side of board before resawing for the laminations - or would that be overkill?
    Cheers

    Brian

    "Brian departed this life after a number of years spent being a member of these forums, he will be sadly missed by all"

    Woodworking Australia's Woodwork Forums - May 2007

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,337

    Default

    Hi Alex, Thicknesser/planer the same as mine, do I detect a TSC-10HB? drool drool (one day - aaah) now you have me wanting to know about the Henry Bros saw blade - is it a standard 3/4" 3TPI ripping blade or are you onto something special here? Oh by the way enjoying the thread too . Looking forward to see the figure that you mentioned in the completed cabinet when this one comes closer to completion.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 3 (part 1

    Quote Originally Posted by HoutBok
    Did you thickness to flatten other side of board before resawing for the laminations - or would that be overkill?
    I put one side over the jointer, then resawed to about 22mm. Some boards were thick enough to get usable laminations.

    TeeJay, the blade is an ordinary old 1/2" 3TPI Henry Bros. blade. Don't know what it is, but it cuts better & faster than any other similar blade I've had.

    After cleaning out the dusty, I removed yesterdays lamination from the form. Springback was about 3mm, which was expected. Glued up the second lamination, same as the first.

    Planed all the boards to remove machining marks and bring to about final thickness - 19mm. Mark each board on both sides with grain direction.

    Laid each panel out and decided on the order of the boards. Puting any especially good pieces to front. Markwith triangle to show order they go in.

    Plane pairs of edges together. Doing them this way means that they will give a straight panel even if they aren't exactly perpendicular to the face - they are exactly the same angle. Also plane so that there are no gaps between the two boards.

    Cut slots for #10 biscuits, being sure to set the depth from the face with the triangle in all cases.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default day 3 (part 2)

    Made a couple of stands to hold the T bar clamps while gluing up. I stand the boards to be glued in order, then just work from front to back, standing the panel vertically until all the boards are together, then lay it down gently.

    Nip up the clamps, not too tight. Ideally, there should be clamps over & under, but didn't in this case. Just a little bit of squeeze out all along the glue lines, looks OK.

    Result of the days work - 1 door rail laminated, 1 in the form, 1 panel glued up, 4 panels ready to go and a heap of shavings.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Kansas, USA
    Posts
    656

    Default

    Looking Good

    You should make some more. You know if SHMBO want some for your bedroom

    Is the Henry Bros blade a Hooked or a Racker ??
    JunkBoy999
    Terry

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 4

    It's a hook tooth blade, but every 3rd tooth is a raker - ie, has no set on it.

    Quiet day today. Glued up 3 more panels, you don't want to see more pics of them.

    Put the door rails through the thicknesser to machine the edges. The laminations look OK, no voids or glue lenses.

    Cut the staves for the door roughly to size. After I've made up the door frame, I'll plug some numbers into the coopering spreadsheet kindly supplied by someone here, to obtain the exact widths and angles.

    Might get the last panel glued up tonight.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default Day 5

    Glued up the last panel last night, so this morning, cleaned up all the panels to get rid of squeezed out glue and any unevenness, and bring to final thickness.

    Make a final decision on which sides are going to be inside or out. Dress the back edge as a face edge, then dress front edge parallel. Mark the final length on the face side/edge corner with a marking knife, then transfer this to the ofront corner with a framing square. Because I don't trust the square, I check the diagonals and the distance on the front corner. The diagonals are the same but the front distance is about 1mm less each time, so I add 1/2mm at each end, then mark all round with a marking knife.

    Mark the final depth of the sides and scribe. Using one of the laminated door rails, mark in pencil the shape of the bottom front. Cut the sides and bottom a little oversize.

    Lightly mark all round both ends of the bottom and the bottoms of the sides with a cutting gauge. On the bottom, mark the pins out using the scriber, square & dovetail gauge (1:8), then mark the lines with a sharp pencil. Mark the waste clearly.

    As they say, measure twice & cut once. Getting towards the end of the day, and I drew one of the pin marks the wrong way. Fortunately, I noticed before cutting.

    Cut on the waste side of the line with the dovetail saw, being careful not to go deeper than the line scribed with the cutting gauge. Between the pins, deepen this line with a marking knife.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,879

    Thumbs up

    Alex is the man.

    Anytime you need more clamps just let me know.

Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. WIP: Bedside shelves
    By zenwood in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 5th September 2005, 05:56 PM
  2. CD and DVD Cabinet
    By rodm in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 1st September 2005, 12:33 AM
  3. Toy Cabinet
    By Scally in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 29th August 2005, 06:35 PM
  4. Cabinet Design Software (Discounted)
    By RubiconCabinets in forum ANNOUNCEMENTS
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 20th July 2004, 06:30 PM
  5. Re-polishing a cabinet. Part 2
    By Shane Watson in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 29th January 2002, 08:15 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •