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Thread: How to get the scale off steel?
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5th September 2005, 02:04 AM #1
How to get the scale off steel?
That's about it.
Currently using belt sander/grinder with a flappy disc.
I want to get it off without tearing up the surface too badly, but using sanding stuff is not simple.
Anyone got any better ideas?
Thanks, I hope.
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5th September 2005 02:04 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th September 2005, 07:45 AM #2
As an apprentice we were shown and told to use the end of a 12" bastard file held up at an angle and used as a scraper!
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5th September 2005, 10:05 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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It depends on what you are doing. Is this new steel you are using to fabricate something or are you restoring something?
If it is new steel and it is a fairly large piece you are trying to clean up then think about purchasing bright mild steel.
If you want to keep cleaning up what you have got then draw file, grind, sand. You could also sand blast if the surface doesn't need to be polished.Cheers,
Rod
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5th September 2005, 10:32 AM #4
why not get a brass wire brush for the power drill - it may be a tad rough but at least it will be uniform and you cant bite in too deep. I use the brass wire brush on the bench grinder and that finishes up a treat.
cheersZed
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5th September 2005, 11:05 AM #5
Depending on the item being cleaned, its shape & size, you can't beat the dedicated wheels fitted to a bench grinder. A tapered thread spindle is first fitted to the shaft of the grinder and a range of wheels is available. 3M now make a safer version of the steel wire brush wheel, made of abrasive imbedded in an open rubber matrix and it seriously rips into rust, scale and paint However, they are not cheap and do wear away. I then move from that into a series of Scotchbrite mops and if I'm after a polished surface, into the sewn cloth mops. With some rouge they double as tool hones. All these things go on and off in a jiffy, the tapered thread is great!
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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5th September 2005, 11:35 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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You could try a wire brush cup on an angle grinder. Like with all you will need eye/face protection.
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5th September 2005, 09:33 PM #7
Hmm... Nothing new unfortunately.
It's new steel, the black scale on hot rolled stuff. I want to get it off without spending inordinate amounts of time, but without digging into the steel too much, yes it needs to be clean. Not polished, but very very flat.
Tried the brush in the grinder, scrapers, woody scraper, sanding discs in the grinder, belt sander, files, etc, etc. Was kinda hoping there was some trick I had not heard of for getting the crap off quickly. I have not tried the 3M wheels, they be a tad pricy...
If I could find BMS/Cold rolled, I sure would have bought it, even at 5 times the price. I just cannot find it here. I can buy steel plate up to 6 inches thick, but I can't find BMS.
Which is a real hassle because these steel bits are going to end up being a lathe...
Thanks folks. Just have to keep sanding it off with the belt sander I guess. The biggest parts are done though. The base and ways are clean and flat. Just the carriage, etc now.
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5th September 2005, 09:59 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Probably would help if you gave a dimension or two so we knew what size steel you are wanting to clean up.
If it is for a lathe then I would imagine it is fairly large so try an engineering machine shop to have it face milled. They could also grind it if you wanted a perfect finish.
If you can't get bright then try looking for stainless steel.Cheers,
Rod
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6th September 2005, 12:06 AM #9
Uhh. Take a look where I am.
Should explain a lot...
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6th September 2005, 12:43 AM #10Retired
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Schtoo. I wouldn't be worried too much about the scale if you are building a lathe.
Clean with a grinder where you are welding it together.
When you get it assembled, clean the ways with a grinder, then a belt sander and if you get real keen a random orbital. Then if you are silly like me you can lap the tail stock in with valve grinding paste.
Bewdiful!
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6th September 2005, 01:14 AM #11
Right machine for the wrong material.
Metal lathe.
Need it to make a spindle for a wood lathe... *Just leave out the part where I ended up grinding this one's spindle on the wood lathe thing I have now... ok?*
That's my excuse and I am sticking to it.
If it were a wood lathe I doubt I'd even bother taking it off where it wasn't in the way. Lick of paint will fix it quick smart.
And no, I won't be making one as long as a bus, thanks.
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6th September 2005, 08:49 AM #12
Paint removal disc
Schtoo
I have used a type of disc put out by Norton which seems to be made of fibrous material or something like it and is quite a flexible item when being used. The disc is quite porus, stringy in its makeup, about 8 inch in diameter and about $17 here. It is quite open in its design and is great on a sander polisher for paint or rust removal and would work a treat on the scale you mention. It will polish metal without scarring the material.
I think 3m would make a similiar type of product. If you need a picture let me know and I will get one on here for you.
Regards MikeLast edited by MICKYG; 6th September 2005 at 08:57 AM. Reason: added info
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6th September 2005, 02:41 PM #13Retired
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Originally Posted by Schtoo
Why not?
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7th September 2005, 01:04 AM #14
I think I have seen those fibrous looking things here, 4" for $17 or so.
I am not exactly flush with cash, which is why I am making the lathe if the first place.
Got it licked for the time being. All the long bits are cleaned up, now got about 2-20 hours of drawfiling to do. Fun, fun, fun...
, I don't need to turn bus, that's why.
I still have trouble comprehending how big that thing really is. Heck, I am not even sure where I would put something like that, let alone use it. Kind of overkill for a file handle or two.
Unlike most, I could actually fit it in the shop somewhere.
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