Using the Bevel Ripping Guide

[Helix]

Hi all,

I seem to have a problem using the bevel ripping guide. It seems that I keep stuffing up the corners of the work piece as it "falls" into the blade of the saw.

Anyone got any advice, tips, tricks, or plans for a jig that I can use to help me? I am very new to wood work, and am trying to learn all the tricks to get a good result.

I have tried to make a jig that slides in the channel on the face of the bevel ripping guide, with a square cross piece on the end to allow me to hold the workpiece against it, but it often stops moving when the square comes to the edge of the guide due to a few millimetre twist due to the pressure I apply trying to hold to panel square.

It seems cutting bevels is the hardest thing for me to do properly, perhaps I should just get a 45 degree chamfer bit for the router instead, and forget about the bevel ripping guide?

Cheers,

Josh

[Eowyn]

I haven't used my Bevel ripping guide much, so I would like to hear other people's experiences with it.

I was putting a bevel on the end of a long narrow piece, so I made up a jig that would run along the top of the bevel ripping guide- then I discovered that this top edge has a little ridge, so my jig didn't sit nice and flat. I had to play around and put a spacer in. It worked ok, but the joints weren't brilliant.

[Ausworkshop]

If Your Trying To Get A Consistant Angle, I find that by sliding on its edge a good straight steel rule (the longer the better) along the aluminium bracket fence thingys with the blade out of the road then you can hear if the end of the rule hits the back bracket as it goes through. Its probably either hitting a little (rear bracket too high) or its missing it all together & there is a gap between your ruler and the aluminium (rear bracket too low). Fix by aligning the aluminium perfectly paralel to your ruler edge as well & you should find it cuts alot better. Also check to make sure its perfectly paralel to the blade as this can also cause tear out or under cutting & teeth marks.

Because of the increased surface area of cut with Bevel ripping, sharp blades and correct pass through speed are also very important factors.
Also, with large timber stock don't put any downward pressure on the timber, just let it stay down under its own weight and glide the peice through in a consistant horizonal movement.

For dead accuracy though, I think your right about the router bit doing a better job, theres just too much flex & room for error in the bevel guide.

I hope this has helped a bit, took me a while to set mine up but seems to be cutting nice now.
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[Gumby]

Hey Andrew,
It's good to see you helping out but the post you replied to is over 2 years old ! I don't think he's still around