Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Default Organol Hard Burnishing Oil on Jarrah burl

    I recently finished a piece of Jarrah burl with Organol Hard Burninshig Oil. I followed the instrucitons carfully and finished off by burnishing with a lambswool cloth to produce a nice sheen finish. Now a week later the finish is going off and reverting to the state before the burnishing. Any comment or advice would be appreciated.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    56
    Posts
    89

    Default

    Hey wolfs,

    I am not sure but have used the same finish on two pieces I built so will watch and see what transpires here.

    Cheers,

    Buz

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Drop Bear Capital of Gippsland (Lang Lang) Vic Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,518

    Default

    Some possibilities:
    Wood was not dry enough
    Not fine enough grit on final sanding
    Try finishing again with final grit and see if it holds.
    I use shellawax now with a buff (on Festool Rotex in rotary mode) to achieve the same finish in much less time with a lot less effort.
    A drill with a buffing wheel should achieve the same result using a swansdown mop.
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Margaret River, Australia
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Wolfs, do a search on threads discussing finishing with organoil. There's been a lot of discussion / debate about "problems" with organoil finishes. You think you're going to get this nice satin finish which shows off the beautiful wood grain (like a Jarrah Burl!). Then you end up with a flat dead look. That's why I shifted across to lacquer. Or sometimes Danish oils or Oil/Poly mixes like Feast Watson Floorseal. I know people who persevere with the organoils, but it means days / weeks of slog before you end up getting anywhere near the finish you're chasing (but still not as nice as a 40 gloss lacquer, or French Polish, or oil/poly type Danish, or Ubeaut EEE Ultrashine, etc etc). Life is too short for organoils, IMHO.

    Richard

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Organoil needs to go down to about 2000 grit, I tend to put the article away for a while and bring it out again at the stage that you are talking about and run over it again with the 2000 dry. After a while it stops reverting to the flat look and maintains its shine.

    While it does take effort pure oil finishes are able to do things that no lacquer/poly type mix can ever hope to.

  7. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the infomation guys. I will try dry sanding with 2000 grit as suggested by PAH1.

Similar Threads

  1. Jarrah Burl
    By Quokka in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 2nd February 2005, 10:31 AM
  2. Joinery with Jarrah Burl
    By gmcginty in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 21st July 2004, 12:29 AM
  3. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 17th June 2004, 10:08 AM
  4. Penetrating Oil on Recycled Jarrah
    By pilot in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11th June 2004, 11:07 PM
  5. Oil change
    By Iain in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 1st November 2001, 06:56 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •