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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Croatia
    Posts
    3

    Default Need advice re building built-in cupboard\wardrobe

    Hi,
    I have a space (brick wall at each side and back, concrete ceiling and tiles on concrete floor),some 3m wide, 3m high and .5m deep where I would like to put a built-in wardrobe/cupboard with plenty of adjustable shelving eg vertical divider every .5m.
    I would like to build it so that :
    - there is no backing - the back wall is the backing
    - doors (perhaps wood) are hinged (maybe 2 rows of doors eg 2m at bottom and 1m at top, would make them small/light enough)
    - it is a "walk-in" cupboard i.e. there is no kickboard/bottom in the
    cupboard but rather the tiles/floor are the bottom
    - I was planning to use "pressed wood" or solid timber frame
    filled with thinner wood panel for the vertical sections and
    adjustable pressed wood shelving
    I'm pretty right with what I want to build but would appreciate
    some advice/pointers on how to go about it:
    (a)Should the doors have their own frame or can the doors be hung on the cupboard construction (what is better/easier) ?
    If the doors need a separate frame, should it be bolted to the cupboard construction & how ?
    (b)How best to fasten the construction together i.e.
    - how high should the vertical sections go (in 1 piece ?)
    - how /where to fasten vertical sections together (considering the
    "walk-in" issue) i.e. the fixed horizontal sections/shelving.
    (c)How /where to fasten the construction to the building and how to cater for wall/floor/ceiling not being straight ?
    (d)How best to drill the holes for the adjustable shelves
    and how to get the holes aligned horizontally i.e. on same level
    on the different vertical sections ?
    (d)Maybe someone has some other ideas how to go about it ?
    BR,Vjeko

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    ipswich Queensland (Gods backyard)
    Age
    69
    Posts
    337

    Thumbs up

    i construct built in wardrobes in my business
    in your case i would suggest you have a full depth shelf behind the door joints(horizontal) all the partitions should not go to the floor and would be about 300mm off the floor ,screw a support beam of about 100mmx16mm hmr white to the wall at 1035mm to the top of the ledger beam ,then notch out the back of the vertical partitions to correcpond with the beam allowing for the partitions to finish 300mm off the floor,for the head make up a U shaped box about 100 mm high and about 80mm wide with a cleat that fits into the U to act as a track ,screw the cleat to the ceiling in the desired position then fit the U section to the cleat ,level and scribe to the ceiling line cut to the line and then fit to the ceiling ,that should take up any irregularities in the ceiling line ,the doors shouldnt be any wider than 600mm in you are making them yourself but in you use the commercial lightweight doors then 720 wide would be max ,in the U section you have made for the ceiling notch a section out of the bottom rail to line up with where you want to have your doors hinge ,i get a couple of 100mm x 16mm white hmr boards and glue them together and hang the doors off them
    hope this helps
    kind regards
    tom armstrong
    www.kitcheninabox.com.au
    Flat Packed kitchens to the world

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Croatia
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Hi Tom,
    Thanks a lot for the info !!- unfortunatelly I've been away from Australia for quite a few years and my lack of experience in woodwork and the work specific lingo are giving me probs to follow you - I hope you have the patience to help me out - I feel like an apprentice on his first day ;-). I will ask a few questions and try to piece things together. I will use the terms height,width and depth for the dimensions of the builtin area.

    If you find the questions below are too much, maybe you could add a few more steps / details for someone not in the branch ;-).

    I presume the support beam goes along the whole width of the built in area and is screwed (maybe every 500mm with nylon wall plugs and screws - all walls are brick) eg position screws where the vertical sections cover them ?

    I'm not clear on the position of the support beam - what does "1035mm to the top of the ledger beam" mean for me (all the walls are brick) ?

    I understand the vertical sections have slots cut into them to slot into the support beam but I've lost you regarding "the head" and how high the vertical sections go and how they are fixed in place.

    As far as I understand, a cleat is a piece of timber - in this case, I presume it is a piece of timber screwed to the ceiling along the whole width of the builtin. As I don't understand what the "head" is/used for, a lot of things are from then on not clear :
    - size of timber for cleat
    - how U shaped box fits over cleat / how the scribing is done
    - position of cleat in relation to vertical sections and how the doors are attached / what is the "bottom rail".

    I'm not clear on what you meant by "full depth shelf behind the door joints(horizontal)" - is this some fixed horizontal part (I would like a lot of adjustable shelving and kitchen type drawers(metal mechanisms).

    I'm speaking before I understand the construction / how the doors and vertical sections are incorporated - doesn't
    the fact that the vertical sections don't go to the floor give an impression of "not being complete" ?

    One more complexity to add to the picture - at the very right end of the built in area is a floor heating splitter mounted to the wall (taking up some .5m*.5m from floor level upwards) and next to it (.5m to 1m from right end of the built in area) are some heating pipes running vertically from floor to ceiling) - I guess this can be easily catered for by shelves not going the full depth but will need to do something about the vertical sections/construction
    kind regards
    Vjeko Balas

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