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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Default T-Moulding

    Quote Originally Posted by brads View Post
    Hi All

    I need to buy some T moulding to edge some table tops.
    Can anybody advise me where i can get it from.
    Im in West Oz but am happy to get it from the east if i need to.
    Hey Brad,

    You can try http://www.ozstick.com.au/ I know they have t-moulding. I will also have some left over t-moulding as well (black) so if you can wait a week or two when I should have my machine completed then I'll see if I have any left (I know I'll have lots of left over buttons joysticks etc!!). Make sure you get a very thin slot cutter for fitting the moulding otherwise it will not grip properly in the cut slot.

    Ciao,

    M.

    P.S. To everyone who is watching this thread, yes I have resumed work on my arcade machine again; the break in work was due to both myself and my (now) beautiful wife getting married and taking a long honeymoon

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Port Hedland
    Posts
    3

    Default T Moulding

    Martink you are a legend.
    I run a party hire company and have been chacing a particular button for the jukeboxes.
    Guess what... Oz stick carry them.. you beauty..
    Martin Take the restof the month of and charge it to department of legends.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Smile The control panel Mark III

    Yes, yet another attempt to get a control panel that was something that I actually like. I wanted something that angled down from back to front and also a little larger. I added a curve to the front of the panel so that it looked less 'boxey' as well.

    To begin with, I cut the sides for the panel, mitreing then at 45 degrees so that I wouldn't have end grain showing from the plywood. After I checked them for fit (photo 1) I then added some lengths of pine to accept the screws for both the top and bottom of the panel. The bottom of the control panel is going to be inset so I allowed for this (photo 2). Once this was done, I glued up the frame and clamped it up. While this was drying (photo 3), I began the top of the control panel.

    Next it was onto the top. Rather than beginning to cut straight into the top of the control panel itself, I made a template out of thin plywood first. This achieved two goals, the first to give me an idea of what it would look like, and the second a guide for the flush trim bit to follow when making the real thing (Photo 4).

    I then made a sandwich of the two main plywood pieces that would form the top with the template I created. I drilled a few holes and bolted then together to ensure that nothing moved then cut the basic shape with a jigsaw before running the trim router bit along the edges (photo 5)

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Smile The control panel Mark III - Part 2

    Once the basic shape was done, I glued the two sheets of ply together and let then dry - no photo of this as I forgot. While this was drying I made a template to cut the inserts where the joysticks would fit. Remember that this panel is not 34mm thick since I glued two 17mm thick sheets of ply together for strength. Once this was made and the panel glue up was dry I used a patten cutting bit and my little template to make the cuts (Photo 1).

    Then the moment of truth, will the joystick body fit....I tested it for fit after squaring off the round corners with a chisel and all was looking pretty good (Photo 2)

    Now onto the buttons, I bored the holes for the push buttons, taking the markings from my template. Given the size of the holes, I figured that the drill press with a forsner bit was the best method (Photo 3) - what a mess!

    The next step was to rebate the control panel so that only 18mm of the edge was showing outside of the control panel frame I glued up previously. This was done over on the router table. Remember that this rebate not only needed to take into account the width of the plywood but also the pine I glued to the inside of the frame(Photo 4).

    With this done I fitted a few buttons to see if all was looking good and placed the panel into the frame to check for fit (Photo 5). I don't reckon it will look too bad

    I plan to glue on some formica/laminex or whatever it's called to provide a nice tough finish - far better than paint I also need to cut the base for the control panel as well, but that is another day.

    Ciao,

    M.

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Talking You spin me round like a record....or is it a monitor

    Now, back to making the monitor spin while I work out where to get the laminex from for my control panel. For those of you who don't know or haven't noticed or cannot remember, there are some arcade games that rely on the monitor being horizontal (such as moon patrol) while others rely on the monitor being vertical, that is to say, tilted on it's side (such as frogger).

    In a previous post I showed the progress I made making a series of plywood circles and fitting the monitor to it. Upon further thought, I realised that the best way to make rotate was to use a bicycle chain attached to the non weight bearing disk. For this a had to modify the MDF disk and turn it into a pulley.

    First off I cut two 6mm MDF circles using one of the existing monitor plywood disks as a template (photo 1). Then I attached one of the new larger MDF disks to the unloaded MDF disk and cut the hole for the monitor to pass through (Photo 2). I fitted the second disk and re-cut the hole for the monitor using a flush trim bit to make the pulley that the chain will sit in. A close up of what I have achieved is Photo 3.

    Next I put the whole assembly together, lined it all up again and tightened the nuts (Photo 4).

    The next trick was to get the monitor into the arcade cabinet. This was a bit of a problem as the monitor and plywood disks weighs about 50-60 kilos with most of this weight at the front of the screen!!! To facilitate the insertion and removal of the monitor I figured that a plate running between the two wheel sets would allow me to slide the monitor in without killing myself. I held this in place with a few screws (photo 5). Now the next trick, will it all fit together like I have planned????

    Ciao,

    M.

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Hows this going Martin?

  8. #67
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    2,613

    Default

    Im really concerned about mixing beers like that........
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Wyndham Vale
    Age
    56
    Posts
    241

    Default

    [QUOTE=Waldo;266684]G'day,

    Hey can anyone remember the way to get the enemy not to shoot at you in Galaga? Once I learned that well...

    QUOTE]


    A long time ago...but for memory...

    On this first screen, don't shoot the two rightmost enemy and let them drop and shoot at you for around 20 minutes or so. Eventually they pass a couple of times without shooting at which time you can shoot them!! Made for pretty good value for 20c

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Default It Fits!!!

    It's been a while and the machine is all finished...has been for a bit but I've been a real slacker and not updated this post so I'll remedy that now.

    From my last entry I had made up a pulley for the monitor and was about to try fitting it into the cabinet.

    This monitor, plywood and heavy all-thread combination is heavy - around 35 kgs at a guess not to mention that trying to pick it up and fit it into such a tight spot without some sort of plan was going to be tricky.

    So the plan was this, place a couple of pieces of wood between the two support rails, use this as a slide to align the monitor on the support wheels then remove the wood.

    With much heaving and a little swearing it all worked out well. You can also see that it fits nicely with the two heavy monitor disks sitting on the rotating support wheels and a little room on the sides for clearance.

    Those of you who are very observant will notice the clamp that the rear bottom of the monitor. This is because the monitor is slopping backward a little and will fall off the wheels if I try and turn it. One of the tasks on my list is to fit a lazy susan to the back monitor disk and fit a back support bracket to take this weight.

    Ciao,

    M.

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Default The rear bracket

    The next step was to make and fit the rear support for the monitor. This is required to stop the monitor from falling backwards in the cabinet.

    The first thing was to cut out all the parts. Because there were a lot of butt joints I decided to fit it together with pocket hole screws. The lazy susan is screwed onto the rear disk of the monitor with a piece of MDF screwed to the opposing side. This will rest against the bracket and will not need to be screwed down as there will be enough pressure from the monitor to hold it against the rear bracket.

    The final couple of pictures show the completed bracket sitting in the machine cabinet.

    Ciao,

    M.

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    And the very observant will notice a bottle of Coopers in every shot.

    Will you be getting/doing some graphics for the sides of the machine etc.?
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    And the very observant will notice a bottle of Coopers in every shot.

    Will you be getting/doing some graphics for the sides of the machine etc.?
    ...or millers...or whatever else I find in the RCD - refreshment cooling device (a.k.a. beer fridge).

    As for side art, I had thought about that but in the end I opted for a slightly different solution...details will come as the story unfolds.

    I'm trying to post everything I have to catch up here as the machine itself is operational but am behind on my posting. Damn hard work this posting stuff...me thinks a nice soothing gin and tonic is in order soon!

    Ciao,

    M.

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Default The front bezel

    OK, so now I have the monitor in the cabinet, it rotates and will not fall out the back of the cabinet. All good stuff I'm sure you will agree however looking at the machine from the front it looks like absolute rubbish so my attention turns to sorting this out.

    The first thing I needed to do was try and close the hole and at the same time provide something for the front glass to lean against. This is called a bezel and I made it up by first cutting a piece of MDF with a hole in the middle with a jigsaw. This was a really rough cut but this is fine, the idea was just to remove the bulk of the material.

    Once I had this done I nailed a straight edge (off cut of straight pine I had lying around) to the lines marked and ran a flush trim router bit then 1/4 inch round over bit against each side. The result was a nice rounded inner edge that was dead straight.

    Next I filled the holes with wood bog, flipped it over and screwed down a couple of battens then mounted it into the cabinet.

    Time for another monitor fitting to see if everything was lining up as I wanted. So it was in with the monitor again *heave and groan*, fit the rear support bracket and put the back on.

    Sweet - all is looking good so far.

    Ciao,

    M.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    489

    Default Mounting the control panel

    Excellent, the box is starting to look more and more like an arcade cabinet! The next thing is to provide some mechanism to mount the control panel. This is done using a couple of peices of pine, one directly under the bezel I have just fitted to support the weight of the glass and a second that will be used to bolt on the control panel I made earlier.

    The first step was to fit the base to the control panel. This will be screwed only so that I can remove it in the event of heavy game plat that breaks buttons or joysticks!

    Then I cut the pine cross members to size and screwed them in. For the rear crossmember I also routed a groove that will accomodate the glass (refer to the picture with the giant red arrow).

    Then I test fitted the control panel to make sure that everything was still lining up. I've also stared filling the screw holes and doing a little sanding. The filler used is auto bog because it sticks well to metal (the screw heads) and pretty well to wood as well.

    As you can see it still looks like rubbish around the monitor - that's my next thing to sort out!

    Ciao,

    M.

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    Looking like the real thing. You are never too young.

    I'd try to get one in here somewhere, but I can't fit it. I was going to buy a tabletop version with my Dad several years ago - Frogger, Galaga, 1942 etc. in another life, but we never got there.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

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