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Thread: saw bench for compound slide saw
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22nd March 2006, 12:50 PM #1
saw bench for compound slide saw
Hi there,
I've done a bit of search on the forum with no luck, but has anyone made themselves a good bench for a compound slide mitresaw? I'm not after specific plans, as each model and make have their own dimensions and shape etc, but just some general assembly ideas, and details like fence and stops & such.
Looking forward to seeing what members have come up with!
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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22nd March 2006 12:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd March 2006, 01:48 PM #2
Mines as rough as guts, so wont post piccies.
Just to make this point. The bench has to be as wide (deep) as buggery to accomodate the full slide. My 10" SCMS has its front foot right at the extreme of the casting hence have had to widen the bench to over 800mm to support the thing. Caught me unawares.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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22nd March 2006, 02:49 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Bodgy is right they take a lot of space on a bench.
I am at the moment building one myself.
I had to cut a hole in the brick wall at the back of the bench and the bench still is 700mm wide.
see attached photo's
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22nd March 2006, 02:58 PM #4
Ive also been thinking about making one for my 12" Mak. As has been said, they need alot of space (something I dont have at the moment) so for now I have to keep it portable. If you do make a dedicated table/setup for it, you'll probably use it more and more. They can be very useful.
Cheers. Gary.
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22nd March 2006, 04:09 PM #5
I built mine 900mm deep and decided to use it as more than a saw table/bench/monolith because of that. I've got a 12 inch Ryobi. The picture attached shows it mostly complete.....and that's where it's stayed so far. I need to put a removable fence on so I can still use the full depth for assemblies etc. and I used the 90mm difference in height between the saw and the top as an opportunity to put some narrow drawers right across the front.
I can only feed from the left, which hasn't proved to be a problem thus far, but I always am keeping in mind whether I'm cutting off the piece I'm going to use, or cutting of the offcut, because of the measurement and kerf width. That's why using a measuring tape on a fence on the left hand side only will be a challenge. Still, not many of us have that much room either side huh.
Might actually finish the workshop one day.
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22nd March 2006, 05:32 PM #6
SCMS Bench
Andy Mac,
Have a look at one I have made out of metal and ply, it has two wheels on it as well. This makes it a go anywhere gadget and if you need measurments I will get them tomorrow for you. This has been made same height as table saw and router table so it has a few uses.
View at http://gallery.groov-e.com/
Regards Mike
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22nd March 2006, 05:58 PM #7Deceased
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Andy have you seen the bench built by Norm??
http://www.newyankee.com/swall_small2.shtml
He also has a portable version
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22nd March 2006, 06:20 PM #8Deceased
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This is a snapshot of his portable version
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22nd March 2006, 07:57 PM #9
Thanks guys, all good stuff. I was afraid of that size issue, how much to allow for the front apron. I have knocked up a rough floor level one with small wheels at one end, for my cheapie at home. There is no leg to contend with there, but I've got the chance to build a reasonable one at work. Loads of 19mm structural ply at the moment. The problem being that we have a non-sliding Makita at present but will upgrade or buy a cheapie to add onto a common fence bench. So basically trying to build while thinking of the mounting of another saw later. Whatever I do will have a smaller bench section as an insert where the actual saw mounts.
Mobility is not the issue, although I like that one of Norms.
Any ideas?
Cheers for nowAndy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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22nd March 2006, 08:51 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Roger Gifkins (the dovetail jig man) made one for a Hitachi (10in I think) and gave the instuctions on the web. I made one for a 12in makita along the same lines but alas I could not leave it set up semi-permanently like Roger. His dust extraction set up looks good and uses it for really fine work- with minimum risk to fingers. Let me know if you cannot find the info. There was also on on the Taunton site which you needed to pay for but there is a picture that will give you ideas. Good luck.
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22nd March 2006, 10:20 PM #11
This is the Mitre saw station that I built. I have since added a shroud to it to catch the dust that I connect my 2hp dust collector to.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ht=Mitre+Stand
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22nd March 2006, 10:52 PM #12Member
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We have a brilliant book in our local Library: Building Woodshop Workstations by Danny Proulx. Not sure if it had a bench for a CMS in it, but its worth a look, as are his many other books on frameless cabinetry. Mostly MDF based and laminate stuff, so if you're looking for a beautiful art piece, don't bother. However, its functional and practical.
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23rd March 2006, 09:51 AM #13This is the Mitre saw station that I built. I have since added a shroud to it to catch the dust that I connect my 2hp dust collector to.
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23rd March 2006, 10:01 AM #14
Hi Andy
I haven't used my scms for ages now, sometime last year I think. I can't even remember what I cut with it???:confused:
I built that rollaway table, so I can pull it out, put the saw on top and bolt it to the table. No fences or outfeeds though with can be a pain though. When finished, the table rolls back under the workbench out of the way of my toes .
The table also triples as a kids workbench, a finishing bench for me and another workbench for extra space.
cheers
Wendy
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23rd March 2006, 09:52 PM #15Originally Posted by Rookie
No I haven't posted the shroud as yet but here are a couple of pics of it.
I just got a scrap piece of chipboard and cut a cut a couple of semicircles out of it and some 2 x 1 to join them together cut a hole in the bottom one and made a metal spigot to take the 4" flexible hose from the dust collector and ran the flexible pipe from the exhaust port down the hole so that the dust collector would also collect the dust from there.
You might notice there is a bit of dust lying in the shroud, but that is because I have been doing odd little jobs without the dust collector connected.
The back of the shroud is some flexible plastic core flute that is actually an old coil wrapper that I collected when I was at Lysaght's and just screwed it on with some Type 17 wafer Teks.
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