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  1. #1
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    Question Cutting My Own T Track

    I can source some square aluminium extrusion, locally, so I am considering cutting the T track slot myself on the table saw.

    1. Am I crazy?
    2. What spec of saw blade should I put in my Triton CS, ie. how many teeth and what material?

    Looking for advice.
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

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  3. #2
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    I may be wrong, but I would say, "Yes, you are crazy!"

    Sounds dangerous and unpleasant to me.

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

  4. #3
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    TCT definitely. Go with as many teeth as you can get - it is going to cut with each tooth peeling a ribbon of swarf, and so you definitely don't want a tooth actually catching on the edge and ripping a slot for itself.

    Cutting aluminium is pretty easy - just take it slow. (Aluminium is cut with TCT blades often, and it gives a clean finish)

    BTW - I would definitely use a cheap TCT blade - it won't be any good for cutting wood afterwards, so keep it for future aluminium jobs. (Same holds true for cutting Al on the bandsaw).

    The Triton steel cutter works on the same principle - no lubrication just a TCT blade which is well supported. After cutting al with the steel cutter, you need to clean the blade by cutting a bit of mild steel, so would do the same thing here by cutting a bit of wood afterwards to remove buildup on the teeth.

    Given you won't want to wreck a good wood cutting TCT blade on the job, what about buying a Triton Steel Cutting blade for your saw? The Steel cutter operates at full speed, so there is no issue on that regard. The only point I can't make strongly enough though is- don't use this setup for cutting steel!!!! All the safety features built into the steel cutter are there for a reason.


    This is an actual TCT circular saw blade specifically sold for aluminium cutting.

    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  5. #4
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    Cameron,

    I'd build a jig to hold it firmly against the fence, saw teeth protruding in increments until I cut through the 1.8mm. I'm looking at 12.7 or 19.1 square that I can source for $20 for 6m.

    Other than Professional Woodworkers Supplies, I can't find the finished product.

    With the right blade it should be a clean and safe cut????
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  6. #5
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    Well, it seems like Stuart knows more than I.

    I don't use table saws much (I usually use my bandsaw) so I don't know what they are capable of doing.

    I have cut aluminium using an angle grinder, you could fashion a holding jig and do it that way, but maybe the table saw is the best idea (with the right blades and setups...)

    Good luck with it. Let us know how you go (if you do go ahead).

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

  7. #6
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    Knurl, Stuart has good advice. I would add that it will make a mess you will find hard to believe, so do it some where safe or cover things up. Personally, I have found a light smear of some cutting oil helped it have a cleaner cut.

  8. #7
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    I cut up some 2.5mm x 20mm walled alum box section last year on table saw for same purpose. It worked very well using one of my 350mm x 60t TCT blades.
    The blade was sharp, and I fed slowly, and the blade is undamaged from the experience. Set blade height to about 5mm above cut. I think that any higher, and you might be inviting a jam up, but I haven't tried it out. It cuts fine, 5mm above. I was going to use one of my 120 tooth blades, but was unsure, as you are now, and didn't want to bugger up the more $exxy blade.

    I used 5/16" cup head bolts for holding items to the track, however I found that I had to grind off the square shoulder, under the dome of the bolts, to get them to slide along the track smoothly. Cheap and quick. I can post a piccie if you like.

  9. #8
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    Great tip, thanks Fossil.
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  10. #9
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    Irwin also make aluminium cutting blades
    Have cut a fair bit usually with the SCMS though have cut some on the triton mk3 , you can also get the wax stick to rub on the area to be cut , this improves the saw life
    As to sourcing Al try your Yellow Pages , Capral and Alspec come to mind


    Rgds
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  11. #10
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    Capral are local but don't do T track. They are the mob with the square stock for $20+ for 6 metres. That's what started this whole crazy idea.

    Ashore, where do I get the wax stick , bunnies?
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl
    Capral are local but don't do T track.
    No but they do have "sail track". Its almost the same as what is refered to as T-track. Hers a few threads about it
    T-slot aluminium extrusion
    cheap t-track
    T Track + fittings

    It's not perfect but a really cheap alternative, and a hell of a lot easier than cutting aluminium on the saw bench.
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  13. #12
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    Knurl,
    I've cut more than a bit of aluminium and would warn you against using a TCT blade meant for timber. Aluminium cutting blades have negative rake teeth whereas timber blades have positive rake. If you use positive rake blades to cut aluminium the swarf generated during cutting will pack into the gullet until it is so full the blade will bind in the cut.
    How do I know this? The purchasing officer at the boat yard I used to contract to made a blunder and bought a stack of timber cutting blades for their 14" drop saws. They were getting a lot of tooth breakages and saws jumping out of their kerfs or spitting things out and generally playing up. I went to check the saws out and spotted the brumby blades. They swapped them for some negative rake blades and things went back to normal. The timber blades had so much swarf packed in the gullets that you couldn't even pick it out with a screw tip.
    You'll also need to lubricate the blade when cutting, beeswax, tallow or metho all work and there are special lubricating sticks available.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl
    Capral are local but don't do T track. They are the mob with the square stock for $20+ for 6 metres. That's what started this whole crazy idea.

    Ashore, where do I get the wax stick , bunnies?
    What about the shi t hot waxstick from umm.......Ubeaut?
    A candle is a stick of wax too......


    Interesting story Mick - worthwhile info - thanks
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  15. #14
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    Just shows the great advice you get in this forum. Thanks fellas. I'll get in touch again with the guy at Capral Brookvale with their 2005 part number for Sail Track and see if I have more luck.

    If not, I'll have a go with the TCT and show you the results. I won't show you if I stuff up.

    Are we having fun?
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl
    ........... I'll have a go with the TCT and show you the results. I won't show you if I stuff up.......................
    Aaaaaw, why not? Pictures of stuff ups are much more entertain...., sorry educational.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

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