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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2

    Default Uh oh! another beginner...

    Hello everyone!

    I'm a new-comer to the forum. I'm actually into electronics more than wood working. Not because it doesn't interest me, but rather due to a lack of space and tools.

    I've decided to design some new speakers and I'm wondering if I might get some help from the resident wood-working experts.

    I have been 3D modelling the design in Sketchup and am almost ready to do detailed drawings of the various pieces of the cabinet.

    My intention is to find a cabinet maker that can either produce the parts for me to assemble or produce a completed pair of cabinets.

    I guess my first question is if anyone can recommend a cabinet maker in Melbourne? Perhaps someone in the forum might be prepared to take on the job?

    Secondly, are engineering style drawings the most appropriate method of presentation? Am I better off just with a general drawing showing the overall dimensions and letting the cabinet maker work out the details?

    Sorry if my questions aren't in the spirit of DIY woodwork. But I promise the rest of the project is very DIY!

    Cheers, Ralph

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,363

    Default

    So how much are you willing to pay for these speaker cabinets
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    campbelltown NSW
    Age
    67
    Posts
    623

    Default

    G'Day Ralph,
    Here are some I made for my home entertainment set-up, hope they give you some ideas.
    savage(Eric)

    Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    willagee wa (near Freo)
    Age
    60
    Posts
    248

    Default

    here is a photo of one of the pair of speakers that i made in 1989 out of black mdf. they are modeled on bose 901 and have a 35mm port down at the base. the sheet was free as the old man didnt know i used it but the guts of the speakers and the drivers cost $1700 at krix speakers in adelaide. they were richard allen but kids poke hole in speakers when crawling .( shouldve put grills on them) the drivers in there now cost $25 each from strathfield


    Ya gotta love the curtains though
    First On Race Day



    And the first brock trophy goes to...............
    and we got no "2" as well
    A FORD driver.

    ironic isnt it?

    and if ya cant win on ya own merit punt em off!!!
    holden cheater team!!!!!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    I expect you have done you homework on the design physics of the speaker.

    Just be carefull that you are drawing something that is practical to construct.

    I have had a bit to do with "HIFI types" and some of the shapes they want to build are just silly to construct.

    Keep everything reasonably conventional and unwierd and you should be fine.
    Use appropriate material and make sound good fitting joints and glue them well.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks for the replies!

    Yes, the design has been well considered already. I know exactly what I want. But there are many variables than can be changed without affecting the integrity of the design.

    For example, the thickness of the front panel (baffle), or whether to recess the baffle into the side panels, or whether to use plywood or solid timber for the baffle.

    I just don't have the experience to weigh the alternatives to get the best set of compromises.

    My current thinking is pre-veneered 19mm plywood for the baffle with simple butt joints with clearance holes for the two top-most speaker drivers. 16mm MDF plates that are routed to suit the drivers and fitting over the upper clearance holes. These are to be held in place with T-nuts or Hurricane nuts if I can find some.
    The sides are to be solid timber probably 12mm, possibly recessed 3mm to fit the baffle. I like the idea of Jarrah but Tassy Oak seems to be much more widely available.
    The baffle venner should suit the solid timber sides. There will also be a grille frame made from quater-round fitting over the front and sitting into the step between the baffle and MDF plates.

    That's the general idea. I am very open to suggestions as to what might make the design easier to fabricate or more sturdy etc.

    I've attached a couple of screen captures of the Sketchup model. (still a work in progress) With and without the sides etc.

    Cheers,
    Ralph

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