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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    2,568

    Default Roller guides on bandsaw

    Hey all,

    My bandsaw has roller bearing guides to guide the blade. I heard a knocking sound (when cutting wood but no knock when not cutting wood) which I think was due more to the ordinary job that I did on the bandsaw weld and I started looking at the roller guides. Of the 5 roller bearing guides at least 3 of them seem to have seized up and no longer rotate. Should I be worried as the bandsaw seems to perform much the same as it always did? I don't think these bearings would be hard to replace, just not sure if it's an urgent job. What do you think?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Absolutely. Replace asap. Unless you don't like your blades anymore.......
    It can cause the blade to overheat, loose temper, but mostly, lead to premature breakage.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Awaba
    Age
    61
    Posts
    52

    Default

    I agree. Bad bearings will lead to a lot of heat buildup. I must go check mine - particularly the lower ones.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Turramurra, NSW
    Posts
    2,267

    Default

    Tiges

    Parallel Universe is alive and well. I get that same noise with my BS, only when cutting, and my guides are all functioning. My welds/brazes are fine, I dressed them. I know what it is tho.

    The cause of mine is a kink in the blade, caused by a jam when getting too enthuisiastic re sawing 6'' Jarrah.

    I just put up with it.

    On another topic, I'd like to replace the current ball race guides with 'cool blocks' I see the blocks themselves available, but not the housings. Are these commonly availabe? Do they fit into the mounts on generic Taiwanese bandsaws?

    Hows the bowsaw coming along, Tiges?
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    2,568

    Default

    Bodg,

    You wouldn't believe it, no less than 2 hours after I wrote to you about the bowsaw, my bandsaw blade broke:eek: . I was faced with the prospect of making a bowsaw or repairing the blade, I chose to repair the blade .

    Like you I have kinks in my blade, I have hammered them lightly on an anvil. This sometimes helps.

    Like you again, I have considered the cool blocks, although the mob I bought the bandsaw from mention the roller bearings as one of the best features on the bandsaw.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Paignton. Devon. U.K.
    Posts
    6,062

    Default

    My bandsaw the well known mass produced model of the UK which I have used for 3 years has 3 different types of bearings in place.
    All rear of blade bearings revolve and the top two side bearings revolve, but the two lower side bearings are of a fixed bar guide to the side of the blade and are not designed to move.

    Apart from one blade (which I think was faulty, blades have lasted in my B/S sometimes for months) so a fixed bearing might not be has critical as might be supposed?
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    173

    Default

    Interesting post. At the risk of (slightly) hijacking it, I've been wondering which guide types are best:
    - the bearing type that Tiger has; or
    - the ceramic/plastic/whatever-it-is guide that some other machines have.

    Any opinions ???

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Think I prefer the 'cool block' concept - for the guides on either side of the blade. A thrust bearing behind the blade seems logical. Nice thing about them, for very thin blades (1/8") is you can fully encase the blade to add support. Course, you do get a bit of wear in the blocks. (I only have basic plastic blocks - probably can't do this with genuine cool blocks.)
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


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