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  1. #1
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    Default Making a wooden ramp

    I need to make a wooden ramp measuring 750 mm long, approx 25 mm high tapering to nothing over a 90 mm width. I have rough cut it with saws but it's rough and would like to plane it or perhaps sand it smooth. Have found it hard to hold so that I can plane it, how can you hold this steady?

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  3. #2
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    Tiger,

    pop up a picture - I'm having trouble visualising what you've made and what may be needed to hold it.
    Dragonfly
    No-one suspects the dragonfly!

  4. #3
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    All I'm trying to do is build a ramp that allows my mother to use her pusher from one room to another, at the moment there is a step there which is approx 25 mm and she doesn't have the strength to lift her pusher/walking frame. The ramp has an angle of 30 degrees.

  5. #4
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    A low bench dog or block less than your 25mm at the head end of the piece and plane towards it.

  6. #5
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    Rustynail's idea is good. Another would be to clamp (G or F Clamp) a small bit of wood as a stop if you don't have benchdogs.

    One thing to watch out for is the very thin (to nothing) edge is likely to splinter off very easily, unless it's glued to the floor. It might be better if you could (if your mother could) manage a couple of mm rise.
    Dragonfly
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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    I need to make a wooden ramp measuring 750 mm long, approx 25 mm high tapering to nothing over a 90 mm width.
    Is the step only 25mm high or is that a typo? Seems a lot of ramp to only raise it 25mm.

    Peter.

  8. #7
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    Thanks guys, I'll give that a try, never thought of planing up the bevel. I had tried to somehow position the ramp so that the bevelled side was parallel to the bench top and I could use the bench top as a reference to get a flat surface.
    Peter, it actually has come down from 90 mm to about 80 mm after some planing, I thought I needed an angle of about 30 degrees to make it easier for my mother to ascend the step with her walking frame.

  9. #8
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    Default

    I did one and just roughed it out with a circular saw and then passed it over the jointer a couple of times. A quick sand and it is more than good enough

  10. #9
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    I tried using stop blocks but no matter how I had them positioned the workpiece kept moving, in the end I used some double-sided tape and got the job done.

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