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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    77

    Default Drill Press Laser Guide

    Hi Folks,

    I have an HafCo Drill Press and am looking at retrofitting a Laser Guide to it. This came about after watching a New Yankee Workshop Video which Norm showed the advantages of his one.

    I have found one on the Web here: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5475

    A couple of questions:
    1. Has anyone had any experiences with Drill Press Lasers?
    2. Does anyone know a source in Australia?

    Cheers
    Wayne

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Wayne, if you have trouble locating the drill bit on the job it could be as simple as not enough light on the job, standing at a drill press just about always shades the job. My drill came with a light on it for this reason.
    CHRIS

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    I thaught about this some time ago, and gave the idea away for a variety of reasons.

    If you are drilling non critical stuff and in a hurry it may be help to some people.

    If you need to drill accurately no guide of any description will beat seeing the tip of the drill cutting its first few turns directly on the mark.

    accurate drilling means fractions of a mm.


    If you don't need that sort of accuracy you should be able to land a drill bit pretty close on target anyway if you have set things up properly.

    Besides accurate drilling is more about work holding rather than seeing the mark.

    You do also realise that bits as big as 1/4" will walk all over the job due to flex in their shaft if things aren't right.

    There have been some laser sighted drill presses in the bottom end of the market......I have not seen any mention of an industrial press with this feature nor an aftermarket item.... why is this.

    I have seen trade or industrial drop saws, band saws and metal giloutines with laser guides but not drill presses.

    BTW was it a brand he endorsed?

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Barboursville, Virginia USA
    Age
    77
    Posts
    2,364

    Default

    I have a laser-lighted GMC 10" drill press (I know! ) and frankly, I turn the laser off more often than not. Why? Because it isn't spot on and I can't adjust it. But it sure makes a lovely bright red X on the piece, quite colorful, really.
    Cheers,

    Bob



  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for your comments and advice. I think I may move the Laser Guide to the nice to have list.

    Soundman - He didn't endorse a particular brand but was referring to an after-market option, this must have been an old video, as in his forum on the website he mentioned his current Delta drill press has one from factory.

    Thanks again
    Wayne

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Mt Druitt NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    518

    Default

    Drilling is mostly about using the correct practice. Especially in metals, scratch out your drilling point with a suitable scriber then get your sharpened centre punch and tap in a small mark. The drill will always centre on this mark and not wander. If it does then the drill is too big as a starter drill in the first place.

    General rule: (metals)
    Nothing larger than 5mm as a first drill then anything above that you use twice the thickness of the drill flute as your starting size, ie measure 90 degrees to the cutting larger drills cutting edges - see drawing below
    Too big a drill as a starter will cause the drill to bit (draw itself in) and too small will just burn the tip.

    General rule for wood - I use an awl instead of the centre punch and get away with a much larger start drill but essentially the same.
    ______________
    Mark
    They only call it a rort if they're not in on it

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Northern Beaches
    Age
    77
    Posts
    405

    Default

    I have a GMC DP with laser alignment and it works beautifully.

    Bob, I found it easy to align the cross beams and now I can clamp the workpiece with confidence before lowering the bit to the work. Adjustment of the laser beams is by Allen key and a small screw for each of teh beams.

    I find that the distance from table to drill-bit doesn't seem to affect the accuracy of the centre-point as I first thought.

    Soundman is right that clamping the workpiece is the most critical part of a good cut.

    My only complaint is that the depth gauges on my GMC are absolute garbage. I'm looking at retrofitting something that's more accurate - any suggestions?
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

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