Bevel Ripping guide

[minvec]

Hi Everyone,

I have just pulled out my BRG and made some simple 45deg mitre cuts. To my surprise, they were more like 47deg cuts, I realised that on one side, standing the fence up fully, the marking on the guide was past the 90deg point. On the other side, it was correctly pointed at 90deg. Setting the "incorrect side to around +2-3 deg correct this issue to some point. But I am unable to get a very accurate cut. Trying some other cuts left me wondering if I should just flog this thing off on ebay. Especially with panel pieces where i couldn't use the protractor guide.

I am certain that its an operator error (although the guide thing is perplexing :confused as I have seen it demoed successfully at bunnings.

Can you guys share your thoughts on this attachment?

[TritonJapan]

Using 2 bits of scrap, say offcuts of 75 x 35 radiata, set the BRG to what it says is 45 deg and bevel the ends.

Now, lay the lengths as though you were going to make a picture frame.

Using a true square, you will be able to work out if it is cutting above or below 45 deg.

Naturally, check to see if your square is square, otherwise the process could take a while.

Adjust the BRG and repeat until it is cutting at 45, then make a mark next to the zero pointer where the 45 deg mark is.

Congratulations, you have just "Calibrated" your tool.

Could cost you a fortune in the long run if you dispose of everything that can be fixed with a re-calibration.

Steve

[minvec]

Ok.. I have calibrated it. In my case one side at normal 90deg and other side at somewhere between 92-93deg. Thats fine for 90deg cuts, but with all the other angles, I now have to "compensate" somewhere between 2-3 degrees. Problem is, I don't know exactly how much, because the markings on the BRG doesn't go past the 90deg mark.

I had a closer look at the markings. I don't know if it was a friday model, but it definately starts at a different point on the side with inaccuracy. It definately has more room in the 90+deg region.

[bennylaird]

Really is a bevel "Ripping" guide hard to do a good crosscut with the short fence and too lazy to convert to crosscut mode so bought a mitre saw instead.

Once "calibrated" as above, does work well though, I don't even bother using the markings anymore.

[TritonJapan]

Ok.. I have calibrated it. In my case one side at normal 90deg and other side at somewhere between 92-93deg. Thats fine for 90deg cuts, but with all the other angles, I now have to "compensate" somewhere between 2-3 degrees.

When you calibrate, don't put a new mark on the scale, make a new pointer mark. A scratch with a nail should do. This way the calibration will apply throughout the range.

Steve

[minvec]

Of course!!

How silly of me

Any tips/jigs on ripping bigger pieces?. My work tends to "fall into the gaps while cutting causing not so straight cuts.

[TritonJapan]

If the board being ripped extends beyond the BRG, clamp a length of timber behind it so that it runs along the top of the BRG. This should stop any slippage of the timber toward the blade.

In his training video, George also recommended making a sliding insert for the mid channel. Basically a piece of wood that has sand paper on the outside face to help grip the workpiece. It should be firm enough to avoid slop and loose enough to move.

Steve

[bennylaird]

In his training video, George also recommended making a sliding insert for the mid channel. Basically a piece of wood that has sand paper on the outside face to help grip the workpiece. It should be firm enough to avoid slop and loose enough to move.

Steve

I have had good success with this method, works well with none of the dipping into the gap.

[minvec]

Awesome idea Steve. Will give it a go when I get home tonight. This may be exactly what I need!

[bennylaird]

I just used the normal slide insert in the channel and it was ok for pieces up to about 3ft etc.

[BarryBurgess]

Minvec
Each time I use the BRG, which is not often, I do 4 or 5 practice cuts until I am happy with the results. The BRG frightens the hell out of me as your fingers are with the 250mm (10") danger zone of the blade. You have to keep your brain engaged during the cutting else its easy make mistakes. Now that I have a mitre saw I tend not to use it As Stev said use clamps to keep your wood in place and you can also use the mitre guage.
I found with longer pieces the router table produced better results and was safer.
Barry

[Swagman]

Any tips/jigs on ripping bigger pieces?. My work tends to "fall into the gaps" while cutting causing not so straight cuts.

Minvec,

Lots of good tips so far.

If I'm doing a bevel cut (ie not a full thickness mitre cut) on a large piece of timber, I find it helpful to place a full length piece of aluminium angle (eg 20 x 20 x 3mm) onto the BRG. That way there is no "gap" to drop into.

And although I haven't needed to make one yet, a length of aluminium angle with a slot filed out on the 90deg corner part way along (to accommodate the saw blade) should make a useful zero-clearance insert to aid in cutting full thickness mitres on larger pieces too.

Jeff.