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  1. #1
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    Default The Maloof joint

    There are a few things I need to work out before I can even think about building a rocking chair.

    Tonight I tried the seat and the dado rabbet joint. The front leg joint is pretty easy to cut since everything is square. The back leg will be harder, it forms a 95 degree angle to the seat.

    Both joints can be done by hand. Using a router to cut rebate will be hard but I am working on it.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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  3. #2
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    Aug 2004
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    Default

    The joint looks good.
    It even looks straight forward to make – Is it?

    SM leaves his legs oversized and square where he makes the joints. I expect all the angles are 90 degrees at the intersection.
    He sounds very practical about his joinery so keeping the pieces square at the intersections would make sense.

    The legs curve away from the joints to give the angles he wants.

    Then his shaping exposes the joints to show them off..

    Nice work.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  4. #3
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    Default

    keep the pics comming (please.)
    p.t.c

  5. #4
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    Default

    You're a legend!

    For the rear leg - if the dado is cut on the leg at 85° on the front/rear faces, and 90° on the inside face, then the mating faces parallel with the rockers could have the corresponding +/-5° formed by chisel. This might be where he uses the special router bits, though I'm not sure how the transition from vertical to 5° works.

    C'mon you lot - lets figure this out. Wongo can be the CMC for us shed starved folk. If he wants, that is.
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

  6. #5
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    Default

    I think the joint itself is not hard to do. To cut cut the rebate with a router is the bit that I could work out. If you use the router bit to cut the rebate on the seat then the back leg will bend 5° outwards and also 5° backwards. Hang on maybe that’s what it is.:eek: :confused:

    To cut the matching joint on the leg is one thing but where do I get those special router bits? I don’t think CMT will make me 2 for $30 each.

    I will work it out, I promise.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Default

    Hey Scott

    Why not use your router so that all "vertical" cuts are 5° out and then use a chiselcert all the horizontalcutscome back to90° (that is,parallel to the "floor").Then you could use and the ordinary trimmer bit or a spiral bit and clean it up with your chisel?
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quiet, don’t give away my secret.

    Well done jmk89, exactly what I have been thinking. Still it is going to be a challenge.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  9. #8
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    Default

    I wonder if the Domirouter would be handy here:confused: - Lignum, Flowboy? With the plate set to 85° it would at least do the angled bits.

    We'll get it.
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    I'm sure you will work it out Wongo, we always do! Perhaps you can make a router template?????

    Keep us posted.

    Cheers,
    conwood

  11. #10
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    Thumbs up

    Got it.

    Hey the idea works, no custom router bits, no chisel.

    If you just ignore the surface, everything else in the joint is square. All I need is a jig to give me accurate cut every time.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  12. #11
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    Default

    The way Maloof makes the seat is very clever. He starts with 1 curve on the middle piece. Cut it on a bandsaw. Use it as a template to do the next 2. It makes the sanding later on a lot easier.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  13. #12
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    May 2005
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    Eden Hills, South Australia
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    Default

    Fantastic stuff, Wongo.

    You could fair the curves on those end bits by freehanding them on the bandsaw. I saw SM do it on tv once, though he said he wouldn't recommend it. I tried it once and it worked OK. Though I probably wouldn't recommend it either.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  14. #13
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    You da man Scott!


    He said somewhere that he's only broken one finger :eek: when the timber caught in the blade and slammed his hand into the table. Not too bad in 40+years of cavalier bandsaw wizardry. I've done it on a couple of bits on the rounded ends of the bed top rails. It seemed natural. I think that you would have to be very sleepy to get cut, as the blade cannot draw you in.
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

  15. #14
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    Default

    Great work Scott!

    As Tex and the rest of us said at lunch on Wednesday, stop thinking about it in the abstract - start cutting and you will work it out as you go along. It is coming along brilliantly. This is a great advertisement for the "suck it and see" school of design!
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood View Post
    Fantastic stuff, Wongo.

    You could fair the curves on those end bits by freehanding them on the bandsaw. I saw SM do it on tv once, though he said he wouldn't recommend it. I tried it once and it worked OK. Though I probably wouldn't recommend it either.
    Oh no, I would never do stuff like that. NEVER! It is SO dangerous.

    But then again I have never had any formal training. I didn’t know better and no one told me not to. Truly it is risky so I do not recommend it.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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