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Thread: Cutting tenons on a curve
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25th February 2007, 07:12 PM #1
Cutting tenons on a curve
These days I find it as quick to cut tenons with a backsaw as when I used to use power tools (such as a table- or bandsaw). I still may use a router for mortices, or I may chop them out with a chisel. Ironically, the more I use handtools, the more confident I get in achieving accuracy with them, and the less confident I feel in controling power tools.
In some instances cutting a tenon by hand is far, far easier than using a power tool. Instances where complex templates or supports would be needed to guide the power tool (router, tablesaw, etc).
For example, here is a WIP - one of a pair of half-round end tables. The base is Jarrah and the top will be Tassie Oak (which will be inlaid with Jarrah). I have loads of pictures because the project forms a framework for a review I am writing on the HNT Gordon spokeshaves.
Here is a (poor) current picture:
The round front of the table is a lamination. This was beaded by hand. More on that at another time. The point here is that the curve makes it difficult, if not impossible, to cut a tenon with power tools (Yes, I know of floating tenons and that Festo Thingajig, but we are talking Real Joinery here ).
We assume that you have already cut the mortice since this is the correct order, that is, mark the dimensions of the tenon from the mortice.
The first step is to make sure all the ends and edges of the stretcher are square. You want to mark the baseline of the tenon using a cutting gauge since you are working across the grain. The Titemark or LV wheel gauges work well. I used one I made myself:
Having taken the dimensions from the mortice, use a mortice gauge to mark out the tenon. Note that this does not have to be centred - this is not critical. What is important is that you use the same distance from the front for all mortice and tenons.
Cut the tenons as close to the line as possible. Sometimes I get lucky and they fit first time.
Next, score the shoulder line deeply with a knife and chisel out a fence for your tenon saw.
Now cut off the shoulders.
Clean up with a shoulder plane, chisel, #140, rasp, etc.
Now mark off the ends from the mortice, and cut to size.
This is the result .. dry fit.
I hope that this was useful for someone out there.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th February 2007, 11:31 AM #2
Hi Derek
Nice job you're doing on the table. Thanks for the wip photos - I can add a few more bits of knowledge to the grey matter.
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27th February 2007, 02:26 PM #3
A nice reminder of the simplicity and accuracy that can be achieved with hand tools.
How did you cut the mortise here? The sides seem nice and smooth.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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27th February 2007, 03:30 PM #4How did you cut the mortise here? The sides seem nice and smooth.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th February 2007, 05:57 PM #5
Nice pictures. Ta for showing.
Agree. Probably is one of those things thats easier done by hand....especially if its just a one off piece.
I've made a staircase in my laundry.....not overly proud of it (scrounged timbers of different sorts look funny)... but it curves up with pieces laminated like yours....cut the tennons/mortises by hand.....about 8 joints like that. got a bit boring after a while
Feel you can jig a sled on the table saw to do the cheeks easy enough ... not the shoulders though( well you can do one, but not both)...definetly handsaw them for shore.
Personally, I'd use floating tennons, cause I've got a horizonal mortising setup. Instead of a tennon, it be just a matter of squaring the end, and supporting the upward curving end on a stepped jig of sorts.
But I do make the floating tennons with a bead plane !....so I'm not cheating that much
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