screwgun (s) for roofing & sheeting, any recommendations???

[Cliff Rogers]

I have read Micks thread about the Metabo. (I did a search)

We need to replace all our hexhead roofing screws as they are starting to rust. The roof is corro iron over 20year old hardwood battens.

I am also going to sheet my new shed with ply over 1.6mm metal battens.

I am after a roofing screwgun & a sheeting screwgun & I am guessing that a 'one-tool-does-both' option is a compromise.

I am tempted to get this first & give it a go, what do you think?
http://www.tradetools.com.au/ProdVie...Product=TTD6SD

[sinjin]

We have used a few at work and even though the Metabo is not as nice to use as some of the others on the market. The Metabo just seem to go and go.

[Barry_White]

Cliff

That's pretty cheap for a dedicated screw gun. Most of the better brands are up around $400 to $500 but for a one off use it would probably be ok,

The fact that you are just replacing the screws and going in the same holes the touque wouldn't be that critical as to going in to seasoned hardwood making new holes.

They don't show the wattage and they only talk about high touque so you really don't know, but at that price it is cheap enough to throw away.

Having a depth stop is important so that you don't strip out the holes in the timber. If the original screws are 12 gauge I would be inclined to used 14 gauge screws which are really a requirement where you live.

Added comment: A roofing screw gun would handle the sheeting no problem and just reading your post again it appears you are looking at the Metabo for the roofing and the other one for the sheeting. I really think if you are buying the Metabo you wont need the other one.

I have a Makita that I have used for years that I used for roofing as well as gyprock and hardiplank onto steel frame as well as fixing architraves etc to steel frame.

[Cliff Rogers]

...just reading your post again it appears you are looking at the Metabo for the roofing and the other one for the sheeting. I really think if you are buying the Metabo you wont need the other one......

Nope, I was trying to avoid having people tell me to do a search.

I have found some stuff that says that a good tool can be made to do both.

I'm tempted to get the $88 for the 2 jobs 'cos I don't think I'll use it again.

[ian]

course you could always just get a cordless impact driver. About the same price as a Metabo screw driver but potentially more versitile

ian

[boban]

I think Ian has a good point. I've got a dedicated screw gun and haven't touched it in a long time. That said though, if the tool you want is $88 then its not such a bad investment.

Most trade grade impact drivers are $500 plus for the kit. I think Ryobi do one for about $150 and if I was purchasing for just one job, then I would get it because they are very easy to control the speed and when you are done with the roofing, you'll appreciate just how much better these impact drivers are at driving home screws.

[Cliff Rogers]

New to me.... dives for online tool catalogues.

Impact Screwdriver or Impact Wrench?

Do the have a variable torque clutch or some sort of a dept stop setting?

[boban]

They are actually called impact drivers.

No variable clutch or depth stop, but you could easily do the job you want to do with one. The control you have is something you really have to experience to understand. I know this from personal experience as I could never understand why they were so expensive (1996) until I got my hands on my collegue's driver.

You use hex drivers just like on the roof screwdriver.

I'm pretty sure Dean did a review on the Ryobi version of the impact driver.

$88 is pretty cheap though. Only problem I had with the torque settings on my roof screwdriver was when drilling in pine battens, the pine varied in density so it would throw out the setting I'd chosen. No problems in steel though and there might not be in hardwood.

I just think that you probably won't touch it after you finish your roof.

[Cliff Rogers]

..I'm pretty sure Dean did a review on the Ryobi version of the impact driver. ....

Ta, I'll go & have a look.

OK, I had a look at this one.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...obiBID1211.htm

I have a HP146F3B - 14.4V Firestorm Cordless Drill / Driver Kit
http://www.blackanddecker.com.au/pro...lid=1&mktid=22
It has a Quick Connect Chuck that will take the 1/4" shank hex shaped drivers same as the ryobi.

It will do the job BUT... I can run both batteries flat faster than I can keep them charged when I'm doing lots of screws like a roof.

I'm looking for a 240v powered driver that won't go flat about a 10th of tha way into a job.

[journeyman Mick]

Cliff,
if you're driving real roofing screws (not those poofy little things they use in non-cyclonic areas) into hardwood battens, forget about using anything battery powered, even a 15.6V panasonic won't hack the pace. You need something with plenty of torque and a depth setting nose cone rather than a clutch for adjustment. Clutch adjustment will mean you end up with some screws overdriven and the neo washers chewed out and others with no compression on the washer. You need to drive the screws so that the neo washer is just slightly compressed.

I would remove all the screws except those on the sheet laps, then replace the removed screws. Then remove the lap screws and replace. Otherwise you may end up "fanning" the sheets. It's possile to stretch the sheets by 10mm or more by driving screws from one endge to the other without first fixing both edges, you can imagine that things could get really out of whack.

Mick

[Cliff Rogers]

... You need something with plenty of torque and a depth setting nose cone rather than a clutch for adjustment....

Thanks Micheal, any recommendations now that you have had a run in with Metabo?

[Rossluck]

I had an ELU that did a fantastic job mover quite a few years. Then one day I dropped it off a ladder and it broke. Since then I've been using a Makita, which seems OK. But I've had a good run with everything I've bought at Trade Tools, so if it's only for a one-off then occasional job, I wouldn't hesitate.

But when I want to drive long screws into timber, especially batten screws, I use an old D-handle high torque Makita drill. These things have the torque to keep driving the screw until it goes right through the metal and the timber and out the other side, so the hard part is timing it so the screw just seats.

[Barry_White]

Cliff,
if you're driving real roofing screws (not those poofy little things they use in non-cyclonic areas) into hardwood battens, forget about using anything battery powered, even a 15.6V panasonic won't hack the pace. You need something with plenty of torque and a depth setting nose cone rather than a clutch for adjustment. Clutch adjustment will mean you end up with some screws overdriven and the neo washers chewed out and others with no compression on the washer. You need to drive the screws so that the neo washer is just slightly compressed.

I would remove all the screws except those on the sheet laps, then replace the removed screws. Then remove the lap screws and replace. Otherwise you may end up "fanning" the sheets. It's possile to stretch the sheets by 10mm or more by driving screws from one endge to the other without first fixing both edges, you can imagine that things could get really out of whack.

Mick

Cliff

This is the best bit of advice you are going to get about what you are going to do.