Review - Minwax Wipe-On Poly Finish

[dai sensei]

Love the stuff. The pop-off lid works well, the screw top is a pain.

I am using it on my TV/Entertainment unit - some panels are pictured here

Thanks for the heads up Graham, I'd better get some more, I'm only 3/4 finished.

Steve - I use those thick red gloves without any problems. Like you, I found out the hard way latex was NBG

[ciscokid]

I used to use it on everthing until I discovered the joy of an oil and wax finish. Few of my projects need the protection that Poly offers. I might have to pull it back out and try that trick Outback mentioned though. Cut it with EEE to kill the plastic shine. Brilliant!

[Hafgan]

Lumber Bunker,

try to get the purple nitryl type gloves. Should be able to get them through a chemist or similar. I use them all the time with formaldehyde etc and they are made to be handle these chemicals. Are a bit more expensive

Cheers

Hafgan

[rrich]

I am a user of wipe on polyurethane. I really like the ease of use and the final results. Usually I use a clean "T" shirt material for a rag and just rub the polyurethane onto the work.

But, I've never purchased "Wipe On Polyurethane." I always make my own. My preference is the Minwax brand but I have used General Finishes with equally good results. I mix regular, oil based, polyurethane in equal parts with mineral spirits (or paint thinner). I've been told that Naptha used as the thinning agent makes the poly dry faster but I've never tried it.

A word of caution is necessary. The thinned poly smells worse than regular poly as there is more thinner to evaporate. Leave your project in the shed for a week or two after the final coat.

When the poly is thinned, you are applying less poly to the project. Therefore more coats of wipe on poly are required. (As Homer would say, "Duh!")

The big advantages to any wipe on is that the poly drys tack free quicker with less dust nibs and the results are usually more even coating by the poly. (Sort of flows out better.)

[corbs]

I looked at it the other day at Bunnies but left it on the shelf. Might have to go get some now. Has/does anyone use it on Pens? I am thinking the poly would make a good hard wearing finish that isn't as toxic as CA.

Corbs

[rrich]

Has/does anyone use it on Pens? I am thinking the poly would make a good hard wearing finish that isn't as toxic as CA.

Corbs,
I'm thinking of personal experience. I've had AT Cross brand pen and pencil sets in chrome, gold plate and gold fill finishes. My body oils and persperation would disolve the finish over time with the only difference being that chrome disolved the quickest and the gold fill disolved the slowest.

That said, I would avoid using a poly finish on a pen for myself. I have on the desk here a turned pen. I don't know what finish was used on the pen but it has remained unchanged for about eight years.

As for CA being toxic... I broke a melamine plate once and glued it together with Eastman 910 (The name of the glue before it was called Crazy Glue.) and we used the plate for years, dishwasher and all. No noticable effects except that the kids said I was growing eyes in the back of my head.

[corbs]

Richy,
I wasn't so much referring to the ongoing toxicity of CA finish, merely the fumes and dust when finishing a pen with it. I have finished most of my pens with CA but have done my last few with burnishing oil and wax on top. I am still playing with finishes but want something reasonably fast to finish as I am struggling to keep up with demand. I might get some and still have a try with a couple of test pens, if it doesn't work then I can always use it on furniture.

Corbs

[IanW]

Hi Dean, good post.

I've been using my own 'wipe-on' poly for years, with very satisfactory results. Just cut regular poly (your favourite brand) about 60/40 with turps. I went this route because it's so damn hard to get decent brushes, any more, and I was finding it impossible to get a streak-free surface by brushing. Now I use the 'slosh-on-wipe-off' technique whenever poly is called for, with a mirror-finish every time!

For high wear places like a kitchen bench, you need to build it with 8-plus coats. Slow going, but because the coats are so thin, you only need wait 3 or 4 hrs between. This benchtop below still looks great after about 7 years.

For a less heavy-duty finish like the Jarrah bedside table, 2 or 3 coats and a good waxing applied with oooo steel wool does nicely....

There used to be a gel wipe-on, which was very easy & economical to use, but haven't seen it for years.

Cheers,

[buc11t]

My 3 coats look like a first coat thats been sucked in to the timber - it still feels quite dry. Is there something im doing wrong or should i cut it with something. I got the clear satin.

Cheers
Mark

[AlexS]

No, there's probably nothing wrong. It's already quite thin and the first few coats soak in, depending on what type of wood you're using. After each coat, go over it lightly with 0000 steel wool or 400 grit abrasive.
If you're using the gloss one, you can give the last coat 24 hours to dry, then polish it using car polish.