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  1. #1
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    Default Mahr dial gauge query

    Hi

    My two gauges arrived today .

    Can somebody explain what the four knobs are for ? And, the connectors on top ?

    The pointer on the cheaper one is bent slightly

    Mike
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  3. #2
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    Default

    Hi Mike,
    I got mine today too, the knob on the bottom right is for adjusting the zero point, just Luke turning the dial on a standard indicator, the bottom left on mine is where the remote lift cable screws in on mine. I'm sure BT will be along with more info, if we are lucky he may even have some literature.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #3
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    Default mahr

    Hi Ewan

    I've tried adjusting the zero point , but nothing moves as I rotate that knob. On both of them

    Mike

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    Default

    You need to have something indicated for it to show, set one up in a mag base and then try.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #5
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    Default Ok

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    You need to have something indicated for it to show, set one up in a mag base and then try.
    Ah ! OK I will give it a go , thanks

  7. #6
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    Default

    Hi Mike,
    The limit tell tails* on the "cheaper" one will be moved with your finger.
    I think the knobs on the top of the other gauge move the limit tell tails* as they have an electrical connection.

    Bob must be working late

    Stuart

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    Default yes

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Mike,
    The limit tell tails* on the "cheaper" one will be moved with your finger.
    I think the knobs on the top of the other gauge move the limit tell tails* as they have an electrical connection.

    Bob must be working late

    Stuart

    Hi Stuart

    Yes your correct re: the limit markers on the cheaper one , they are manually moved with a finger .

    I've discovered that the lower left knob on the Elmilliimess , moves the pointer around as you rotate it e.g., to the '0' or centre position or wherever you want it on the dial face . The two top knobs don't move at all , they are very tight

    Mike

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    The limit markers on mine are very tight....i feel i am going to bend them before they move. I guess thats just because it is new.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #9
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    Default

    Hi Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    I've discovered that the lower left knob on the Elmilliimess , moves the pointer around as you rotate it e.g., to the '0' or centre position or wherever you want it on the dial face .
    I think you'll find its just "lifting the styles", just like a shutter release would.


    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    The two top knobs don't move at all , they are very tight
    Better give it away then.
    Pick me pick me

    pull and turn, push and turn?

    Did you work out the knob on the right that Ewan was talking about?

    Stuart

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    The "EL" in your ELMilliMess stands for "Electrical". The two connectors at the top are to connect wires to that go to lights, buzzers or whatever. They connect when the limit tails are reached. They are internal contacts for go - nogo lights etc. Remember these gauges are comparators. So you can set it up for a particular height, set the tolerance for a series of parts and then put one after another under the touch probe and separate the parts that are out of spec quickly.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  12. #11
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    Default Hmmmm

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Mike


    I think you'll find its just "lifting the styles", just like a shutter release would.

    You mean like Ewans remote control device



    Better give it away then.
    Pick me pick me

    You cheeky man .

    pull and turn, push and turn?

    maybe but I don't want to damage it

    Did you work out the knob on the right that Ewan was talking about?

    Yep, it works OK

    Stuart
    Thanks for the info re: the electrical connections

  13. #12
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    Default 1965 Mahr Catalogue

    Sorry about the tardiness boys.

    I don't know if any of you Mahr owners have looked at the dissection of a Zentimess here https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...3/#post1289149

    They are dead easy to dismantle. And ah my apologies for the poor picture quality. Squinting sharpens the images.
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  14. #13
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    Default Good info

    Thanks Bob

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    Default

    Oh so Mikes got the cheap two contact one

    Thanks for the scans BT

    Stuart

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    Default

    Thanks Bob, I thought you may have something in your collection.
    I wouldn't call 30 odd hours tardiness....just say you couldn't find the right book ( mind you, with the amount of literature you must have it could be very easy to loose something)

    The electric units make the zentimess look cheap at $24.....

    The other thing i notice is they sold tips with steel, carbide or ruby balls. Ruby is AlOx isn't it? I wonder if it is harder than carbide or if it has a lower friction coefficient?
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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