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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
    761

    Default Table saw blade alignment - Lo-tech / Hi-tech

    Good day

    Well, it's almost spring and I started to "warm-up" the machines..well, table saw and router table..that's all my "machines"

    A few days ago I re-aligned the table saw blade, fence and sleds.

    I don't have all this expensive equipment to align the blade to the miter slot so, I used a "Lo-tech" method just to bring the blade as parallel as I can, to the miter slot.
    I call it "Static alignment"

    In my opinion, all the "Hi-tech" (and Hi-price) instruments can be "super-duper" accurate but, I think that the blade itself "knows" the best if it is aligned to the miter slot or not.

    I call this check, "Dynamic alignment"...I just clamp a strip to the sled (or the miter gauge) and cut...when the strip reaches the back teeth, I listen to the noise...

    If it's "cutting" noise, I know that I have to turn the blade clockwise.

    If I don't here any noise, I know that I have to turn the blade counter-clockwise.

    If I hear a "scratching" noise (I mean, the back teeth are just touching the strip) I know that the alignment is good.

    Later, I check the fence alignment to the miter slot (Static check), rip some thin board and listen to the noise of the back teeth (Dynamic check)....and, same as above...

    And as I know that, somebody will tell me "A post without pics is not a post".....(at least, not niki's post)...here are the piccies...

    Regards
    niki
















    And here is the "Dynamic test"


    Listen to the noise of the back teeth



    Bring the rip fence close to the miter slot and check the distances at one end...



    ....And the other end



    Cut a test piece and listen to the back teeth noise...

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
    761

    Default

    I do the same also on the long fence






    To check the squareness of the sled, I took a piece of thin board (floor panel)....



    And cut it to 4 pieces



    I alternate the pieces and checked them on a straight edge...any mistake will multiply itself...

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Default Niki

    you've done it again!!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wynnum Qld
    Age
    76
    Posts
    113

    Default

    Hi Niki,
    Great demo once again - thanks heaps.
    Glad to hear you are thawing out and able to get into the workshop once again!!
    Cheers
    Baz

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
    761

    Default

    Thank you so much mates

    Bazz
    Actually, we had very mild winter, only a few days of snow, the temp's were not less than -5°~-10° and the temp in the garage was always above zero but, it's still to cold for prolong working, gluing and painting so I had to go on "Hibernation"...but soon the garage will become very active...

    Regards
    niki

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Paignton. Devon. U.K.
    Posts
    6,062

    Default

    Thanks Niki.

    BTW I had to get a screwdriver out of my workshop last week, the steel was cold most probably 0C, when my fingers touched the blade the warmth created condensation on the metal.

    Almost needed a towel to dry the screwdriver.
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
    761

    Default

    Thank you Woody

    Well, Poland is known as very cold country and my house is built from bricks (Ytong) of 350mm thickness + plastering of 30mm so it's isolating very good.

    I also covered the garage door with 70mm thick Styrofoam.

    Even at the cold winter of -20°c, the temp in the garage was around +3°c.

    Regards
    niki

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