Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 77
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    wycheproof victoria
    Posts
    95

    Exclamation brick piers??????

    hi all im looking in the asa for the standards relating to brick piers but cant find them if anyone knows what page to look on that would be great.also has anyone done brick piers as this is our first owner builder stage i need all the help i can get.our soil is reactive clay we have to have 1mtr deep holes not sure how wide or if i can fill them with concrete then build piers from ground level upwards any help would be appreciated but be nice guys sometimes you can be brutal.!!!!!if you dont ask youll never learn!!!!!!

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Orstralia
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bingoshelley View Post
    hi all im looking in the asa for the standards relating to brick piers but cant find them if anyone knows what page to look on that would be great.also has anyone done brick piers as this is our first owner builder stage i need all the help i can get.our soil is reactive clay we have to have 1mtr deep holes not sure how wide or if i can fill them with concrete then build piers from ground level upwards any help would be appreciated but be nice guys sometimes you can be brutal.!!!!!if you dont ask youll never learn!!!!!!
    Most brick piers are built from the ground level up.

    Not sure Ive seen anything Asa on brick piers, brickwork in general yes, but piers?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    8,175

    Default

    Brickwork is exactly the wrong material to be using in reactive clay anyway!

    Why not use steel piers, they won't crack?

    P

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Orstralia
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge View Post
    Brickwork is exactly the wrong material to be using in reactive clay anyway!
    Why?
    Most of the older houses in Melbourne are built on them.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    If the concrete comes to ground level (or a tad below) the bricks aren't in the reactive soil
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Orstralia
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna View Post
    If the concrete comes to ground level (or a tad below) the bricks aren't in the reactive soil

    Arhh, now I see, you are asking if the bricks will disintegrate in the reactive soil.

    No they wont.
    Modern bricks are burnt so well when fired that they are impervious to almost most things on the planet.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    wycheproof victoria
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge View Post
    Brickwork is exactly the wrong material to be using in reactive clay anyway!

    Why not use steel piers, they won't crack?

    P
    the reason were using brick piers is its the cheapest option for us as budget is virtually non existant i got quoted 13k for a slab and just under that for steel doing it ourselves so we have to do brick as its a hell of alot cheaper.if we do them properly and take our time im sure they will last the test of time

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    wycheproof victoria
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brickie View Post
    Arhh, now I see, you are asking if the bricks will disintegrate in the reactive soil.

    No they wont.
    Modern bricks are burnt so well when fired that they are impervious to almost most things on the planet.
    thanks brikie i did see a picture of a brick pier in as1684 under concrete footings but no imformation like what width of hole needed what size metal tie rod (12y?) if the hoop iron goes under first or second row of bricks and with the ant cap how do you put it on if the tie rod is sticking up do you cut a hole in middle and slide over?wouldnt that effect the performance of the ant cap or do you plug the hole somehow.also where does the damp proofing go?????sorry so many questions ive looked everywhere but cant find simple answers.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    wycheproof victoria
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna View Post
    If the concrete comes to ground level (or a tad below) the bricks aren't in the reactive soil
    thx echidna thats what i thought but is there a particular strenght of concrete i need to order and how do i work out how much i need?????

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Aust
    Posts
    248

    Default

    Whats the pier doing? I is it holding up anything (load bearing)?

    Do you have a picture of where it is to go?

    Because you are in clay some footings have to go down to non-reactive soil. However an engineer really needs to provide you with a footing detail for you particular location (your plot)

    I would say the footing will extend 150mm from the outside of the pier in any direction.

    eg: 350mm x 350mm pier would 650mm x 650mm footing

    The footing depth is the tricky one without seeing anything.

    An ideal pier would be 350mm x 350mm with a galv 10mm rod up the centre from the footing, core filled with 25/15/80 concrete.
    c2=a2+b2;
    When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    wycheproof victoria
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by autogenous View Post
    Whats the pier doing? I is it holding up anything (load bearing)?

    Do you have a picture of where it is to go?

    Because you are in clay some footings have to go down to non-reactive soil. However an engineer really needs to provide you with a footing detail for you particular location (your plot)

    I would say the footing will extend 150mm from the outside of the pier in any direction.

    eg: 350mm x 350mm pier would 650mm x 650mm footing

    The footing depth is the tricky one without seeing anything.

    An ideal pier would be 350mm x 350mm with a galv 10mm rod up the centre from the footing, core filled with 25/15/80 concrete.
    hi autogenius the building inspecter told me to go down 1mtr deep we are building a house so they will be load bearing above ground will be 450mm so i figured i could dig the holes 1mtr fill with concrete well nearly full then build brick piers up to 450mm was planning on doing 2x2 bricks not even sure what bricks i can use for load bearing i have some solids also ones with 3 holes in them.as you can probably tell absolutely no experience here but due to finances have no choice but to try and do it ourselves.its all very well for people to say get a tradie so its done properly but getting a tradie for anything up here is a nightmare and an even bigger one when you get the bill.laying a 8.4 mtr x 15.0 mtr slab on flat as ground was as the concreter said a rough qoute of 13k maybe more so its out of our market.thx for your help though

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Orstralia
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Ive been out Wyche way a few times and have taken notice of the area and sort of taken notice of the ground, most of the advice you will get here is the advice they give to the city folk, they dont take into consideration the needs of country people.

    I know the Building code is supposed to encompass all, but it doesnt, Ive lived in the country long enough to see that there is a difference from country to city codes.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    I assume the building inspector wants a 600 x 600 footing 1 metre deep
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    Al, its more like difference in interpretation of codes rather than different codes.
    In some place the "building inspector" isn't qualified as such, he's the health inspector etc etc.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Orstralia
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna View Post
    Al, its more like difference in interpretation of codes rather than different codes.
    In some place the "building inspector" isn't qualified as such, he's the health inspector etc etc.
    I know Bob, Ive lived out in the bush for over 20 years, so I know what its like....

Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Will my very thin brick piers do the job?
    By Nixolus in forum BRICKWORK
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 28th April 2008, 03:18 PM
  2. Bearers on Brick Piers
    By DvdHntr in forum FLOORING, DECKING, STUMPS, etc.
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 20th November 2007, 09:04 AM
  3. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 16th November 2006, 04:28 PM
  4. replacing brick piers with stumps
    By rscho in forum FLOORING, DECKING, STUMPS, etc.
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 18th March 2006, 10:10 PM
  5. Replacing Bearers and Piers
    By silentC in forum FLOORING, DECKING, STUMPS, etc.
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 30th April 2004, 04:36 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •