Am I doing this right - hollowing tool

[Arron]

I was recently given a little packet containing two hollowing tips (??) for woodturning. Being new to woodturning and having no experience with hollowing, I did a bit of web research and it seems the right thing to do with these tips is to mount them as you can see in the photo. Here I have mounted one on the end of a bit of mild steel bar. There is a bulky handle on the other end. Assuming this is what a 'hollowing tool' is, I tried using it. Cutting ability seems to be mediocre. This raises some questions (remember I'm a newbie, so have no real idea)

1. Is this how these things are meant to be used?
2. Is this, in principal, a 'hollowing tool'?
3. If this really does make it as a hollowing tool, how is this sort of tool used. It cut OK, but not great. Also, it had a strong tendancy to catch badly and throw to the opposite side of the bowl - it seemed to do this whenever the outside edge of the tip touched wood, rather then the leading edge. At other times it didnt seem to cut at all - its very hard working out the ground rules for using this tool and any advice on the right way to use it would be appreciated.

regards
Arron

[Arron]

I was recently doing some spindle work and felt the need for a very wide scraper. I made the tool shown in the picture below, using a Mujingfang plane blade and chip breaker. It has a handle about 20 inches long as I wanted lots of stability and leverage. As far as I can see, it works very well, but as I am a newcomer to turning I think its appropriate to ask if there is some reason why I shouldnt be using this - perhaps a safety angle which I have overlooked. I'd like to know what others may forsee before I find out the hard way.

thanks again
Arron

[hughie]

Arron,

The cup tool is much like a the ones that Woodcut sell or Bruce Leadbetter and Ashley Isles.

http://www.shop.woodcut-tools.com/section.php?xSec=2

survey on hollowing tools
http://www.morewoodturning.net/hollow-1.pdf

Ashley Isles cup hollower [fixed angle ring tool ] varies in that its side are not parrallel
http://www.turningtools.co.uk/ashley.../ringtool.html


Turn or roll the cup on its side [ie 90'] then try presenting the cup at roughly 45' to the wood.

If you swing the handle around more to the parrallel to the wood it will largely scrape. Swinging it in the other direction it cut more and more.

When you have done that and feel a bit more confident, try rolling the cup back from 90' to say 45'

With a combination of presenting the handle at 45 and rolling the cup over slightly you can now get much better control.

What you will find is that it will chatter at some stage. its the tool design, especially on very hard or very dry timber.
On green timber it will cut like an ice cream scoop....yeehaa! or . The trick is to take it easy until you get familar with it. Its fine for the inside of bowls etc and in this regard its not a bad tool.

[RETIRED]

I was recently doing some spindle work and felt the need for a very wide scraper. I made the tool shown in the picture below, using a Mujingfang plane blade and chip breaker. It has a handle about 20 inches long as I wanted lots of stability and leverage. As far as I can see, it works very well, but as I am a newcomer to turning I think its appropriate to ask if there is some reason why I shouldnt be using this - perhaps a safety angle which I have overlooked. I'd like to know what others may forsee before I find out the hard way.

thanks again
Arron

The corners need to be rounded so that the blade doesn't tear out the timber ahead of the scraper.
Why a scraper that big for spindle work?

[orraloon]

Arron,
When using one it is held at about 45* so that instead of catching it will turn away from the wood. It is presented at center height. The shaft of the tool needs to be round to roll at least the bottom of it. I find it is not as good as a gouge but it will get into places a gouge can't get. It also has to be sharp. I have even seen it used on spindle work. I posted a bit on sharpening one last year.
.

[Manuka Jock]

Arron , is there a Woodturning club close to where you live ?

[Arron]

Why a scraper that big for spindle work?

Because it seemed like a good idea at the time. I wanted to smooth out some straight-taper table legs without sanding.

Now I'm surmising from your response that experienced woodturners wouldnt bother with a scraper that wide - but would use a narrow one to the same effect?

regards
Arron

[Manuka Jock]

Arron ,
is that the scraper that you were talking about making , in a thread a month or two ago ?

[Arron]

Sort of true, in that thread I was just wondering about the wisdom of using just a naked plane blade. Someone suggested that it was too much contact area with very little leverage. That seemed sensible, so I stuck it in a handle.

regards
Arron

[Manuka Jock]

It looks spooky to me mate , apart from the crack in the handle .
Have you taken it to your local club and let them give it a test run ?

By the way , I was looking at your inlaid veneer boxes .
Excellent work there , cheers .

Jock

[oldiephred]

This is the best site that I have come across. The people are very helpful , friendly and have a sense of humor. You are wise in asking questions but do not be afraid to ask yourself "why not try it this way?"
If it works for you then go for it. Personally, my main turning tool for practically any task consists of a piece of 5/8" CRS with a 1/4" HSS tool bit from a machine shop supplier fitted in each end. When sharpened right it will produce curls that will put tears of joy in a turners eye. It cost me $12. I rearly use the "normal tools. Then again no one ever accused me of being smart or normal
Enjoy your turning.

[NeilS]

Hi Arron

I made the tool ... using a Mujingfang plane blade and chip breaker.

Just one suggestion - how about extending the support shaft so it sits just short of the bevel of the blade, and dispense with that flimsy chip breaker. The heavy shaft then makes contact with, and slides along, the toolrest, giving more support for the thin blade and reducing any tendency to vibrate.

I have experimented with Japanese plane blades to do the final scraping cuts on the outside of larger diameter bowls to eliminate any sanding. The advantage of the Japanese blades is their thickness and weight. The disadvantage is their shortness and their distinct wedge shape, which makes it difficult to secure them. The holes in the Mujifang blade are an advantage for that. Heavy old wooden plane blades (eg Mathieson & Son) are another option, but the better steel in the Mujifang blade will hold an edge for longer, especially with a scraping action which quickly dulls a fine edge.

Happy experimenting

Neil

[RETIRED]

Because it seemed like a good idea at the time. I wanted to smooth out some straight-taper table legs without sanding.

Now I'm surmising from your response that experienced woodturners wouldnt bother with a scraper that wide - but would use a narrow one to the same effect?

regards
Arron

Wouldn't use a scraper at all unless it was crazy grained. Skew chisel is the go.

[Cliff Rogers]

Some of the really hard oily dry country timber just chips out with a skew but it scrapes beautifully.