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27th June 2008, 06:47 PM #1Retired
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Vicmarc lathe owners - chuck and other questions
Troops,
I've finally bitten the bullet and bought two Vicmarc chucks - the 120 and the 150 - for my lathe. I won't have the 120 for a few days, but am keen to start on some simple projects with te 150. I do not turn too well, so bear with me.
The size of the 150 seems a little daunting. I assume I just knock out the drive and wind it on. Will getting it off be a problem? None of this stuff is covered in the owner's manual.
Another issue for me is whether I should turn the inside of the lidded boxes inboard as I am left handed and reaching into the inside will not be easy. Or do I just reverse it and turn on the far side???? I ordered the outboard turning attachment just in case the answer is no.
And if I go outboard, can I just screw the chuck on and it won't come off? No idea how or whether removing the "handle" will affect the balance.
I haven't changed the belts over on the VL300 either yet - do I need to do so? The pepper shakers, small lidded boxes etc that I intend to do won't be overly large. At what point should I change over? 5 inch bowls? 10 inch bowls?
Also, I only have a 1/2 inch bowl gouge and a 3/4 inch scrap, both on the way. Is that enough to get started with? I already have some skews and spindle gouges.
So, in a word, HELP!
I don't want to have bits and pieces flying off everywhere.
regards Jeff
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27th June 2008 06:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th June 2008, 07:23 PM #2
The best advice i could give is PM me the address and i will pick the lathe up at daylight tomorrow and save you the chance of serious injury or the expence of buying more chisels/tools.
Seriously i think you will just need to get used to using both hands on the lathe. Sometimes you will be able to use the left hand but i would suggest you just get some "junk" wood and turn spindles from one end to the other and then back again. When you change direction you should change hands. That will give you some practice with your right hand at the end of the tool not at the tool rest.
Good luck.regards
David
"Tell him he's dreamin.""How's the serenity" (from "The Castle")
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27th June 2008, 08:52 PM #3human termite
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where is kiewa???????????????
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27th June 2008, 09:25 PM #4Retired
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Kiewa is a little place about 25kms out of Albury Wodonga on the Vic-NSW border.
I'm on 9 acres out of town and can see the snow from Falls Creek over winter. Wood fires in both the house and shed!
Not as cold as Ballarat, but close.
Jeff
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27th June 2008, 10:34 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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G`day Chris Stotts book 50 boxes is a great guide to makeing boxes. Tighten the chuck with the bars supplied with your chuck and lathe.
Mick
P.S. the more you practice the better you will get with both hands or get a reverse switch for your lathe and stand on the other side.I turn my boxes in board I am right handed.
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27th June 2008, 10:34 PM #6
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27th June 2008, 10:42 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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G`day DJ I don`t want to start an arguement but I have had the chuck try to spin of the nose a couple of times so I always tighten the chuck with the bars now.
Mick
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28th June 2008, 10:31 AM #8Retired
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Thanks for all the replies, particularly yours DJ. A mine of good advice and information, none of which I could find in my books.
Next time anyone is up this way, drop in. There is a growing waste pile of practice legs etc that I will get rid of in the fire before anyone arrives.
Jeff
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28th June 2008, 12:28 PM #9Hewer of wood
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You on the Gundowring Rd Jeff, or Kiewa Valley Hway?
Cheers, Ern
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28th June 2008, 05:04 PM #10Banned
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28th June 2008, 10:27 PM #11Retired
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I've been practicing making legs for small tables. One leg only. I'm not game to try wasting any timber on 4 legs until I get up to speed. Small legs too, suitable for coffee tables.
I have 4 nice sticks of 75mm KD redgum about a metre long ready to go for a "project". They have been sitting there for a while - well, 4 years - and maybe they will wait a little longer. No point turning nice timber into more firewood.
That said, it all burns well!
So the answer is no. No real projects yet. Not until the skew chisel and I develop a "working" arrangement. I fear the negotiations will be a long and drawn out affair.
regards Jeff
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28th June 2008, 10:50 PM #12Banned
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A cobber of mine makes oak tables , and I do a bit of part time work with him .
We are thinking of doing one with turned legs , to test the market .
Not being a disciplined spindle turner , I have been researching ways of getting the legs identical , or near enough to it .
These sites have good ideas .
http://www.woodturninglearn.net/arti...gtablelegs.htm
http://www.newwoodworker.com/turning/trnlegs.html
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29th June 2008, 12:58 AM #13
G'day Jeff
I sympathise with you on the left handedness. I am also a molly duker and for the life of me I cannot ever get comfortable or confident trying to adapt to right hand on the lathe (too old to change now anyway). As with any power tool, if you are not comfortable then it becomes dangerous. I do all my hollow turning from the back of the lathe. I have been turning this way for a couple of years now and have never found it to be a problem. And while I'm there I also sand from the back of the lathe. It is certainly not orthodox but it works for me.
Cheers
Shorty________________________________________
Cheers
Shorty
If I can't turn it I'll burn it
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29th June 2008, 03:26 AM #14
Cheers, Jeff. Welcome!
You've gotten some right good answers already, so I'll just add what I did to my chuck on my LittleVic.
I drilled a hole for a set screw in the thread adapter on my Nova chuck. It keeps it from backing off the spindle when I reverse the Little Vic.
Also, when I mount a chuck on either lathe, I turn it on til it stops, then use the spanner and give it a bump with the heel of my hand. It holds really well. That's all it takes to jar it loose when I'm ready to take it off... just a bump with the heel of my hand against the spanner.
If you can con DJ out of another trip out your way, you'll be doing well.Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.
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29th June 2008, 10:24 AM #15Hewer of wood
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