What bit for frame and panel with glass?

[Waldo]

G'day,

I read a FWW article somewhere in what PDF issue I can't remember about which frame and panel router bit for cabinet doors with glass inserts. Anyone able to shed some light for me?

[Check twice!]

This is a Canadian company but I think you are looking for something like this.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...78&cat=1,46168

Hope this helps
John

[Waldo]

Thanks Check Twice.

[SAISAY]

I am renovating my kitchen at the moment.
For the wall units (they are 1200 mm tall) I have made the upper half solid panel and the lower half glass.
I used normal rail, stile and panel cutters. Then I used my jointer to cut out the rebate on the back and for the arched top I used a normal rebate bit.
I am not good enough to cut curved glass, so I rebated straight across the arch to insert a rectangular piece of glass.
I then resawed a piece in the same shape as the arched rail and fitted it to the back of the glass plus fitted strips the same width as the rebate to the straight sides.
Looks very good even from the inside of the doors.
On another straight sided door, I just slid the glass into the cutout made by the rail and stile bits, before I glued the complete door together. Problem is, doing it like that, I have no idea what I will do if I break the glass panel
Wolffie

[Chipman]

Hi Waldo,

Are you planing on rail and stile type joinery or mitred/biscuited/domino joinery?

If you are doing mitred joints, just run are your stock with whatever profile you chose and rebate out the back... can use a straight bit and the fence on your router table or use a rebate bit with a bearing.

If you are doing rail and stile type joinery, you have a couple of choices...

1. do your doors as if you were making panel/raised panel doors and glue the frames together... then rebate out the back using a rebate bit with a bearing. Then use a sharp chisel to square up the corners.

2. do your doors as if you were making your raised panel/panel doors and then do a dry assemble... mark where the corners will be then disassemble and do stopped rebates on the back of each piece. You will still need to use a chisel to fix up the ends of the stopped rebates.

If you are running dividing bars in the doors, then you need "divided light" router set

As for rail and stile router sets, there are many different ones available and profiles... carbitool make them as does CMT

http://www.carbitool.com.au/pdf%27s/PageR031.pdf
http://www.carbatec.com.au/router-sh...detailing-sets

As for keeping the glass in...

Several ways...silicon or putty (yuk!!!)

Can buy something like cane... run it around and tack it in

My preferred way... use some thin black automotive double-sided tape (available from Repco). run the tape round the rebate and dop the glass in, then run a thin wooden moulding around to hold the glass in... I always pre-drill it and use small brass pins to keep the moulding in. (Wolffie is going to have problems if he ever has to replace his glass!)


Cheers,

Chipman

[Waldo]

G'day Chipman,

After a bit of research at FWW I'll decided to adopt what you've written as your preferred approach. It was going to be one big lump of 6mm glass I was going to use in each 800mm x 400mm door. Since getting rough quotes I've changed tact and will be going acrylic with muttins. (which could be fun )

[SAISAY]

(Wolffie is going to have problems if She ever has to replace her glass!)


Cheers,

Chipman

Not terribly worried, with only us 2 oldies in the house and no kids visiting, I do not believe the risk is too great
If someone else buys the house one day, that will be their funeral.
Wolffie

[Chipman]

Not terribly worried, with only us 2 oldies in the house and no kids visiting, I do not believe the risk is too great
If someone else buys the house one day, that will be their funeral.
Wolffie

My appoligies!!!!!

Yes under those conditions, your glass should be safe...anyway if it broke, it could be cleaned out and the back rebated out. There is always a way to do most things.


Regards,

Chipman

[JDarvall]

At work we hold the glass in with bead. Prefinished, ....we run a thin line of silicon down the centre of the rebate (just the right amount to get a seal but not squeeze out). Glass is sized for a tight fit minus about 3 -4 mm....you want it just drop in. ....any squeeze out of silicon can either be left to dry then cut out with knife,,,or,,,scoop it off with a sharp corner of plastic or whatever straight away...meth on rag to clean up any smudges ...ideally you want to apply just the right amount to begin with so theirs nothing to clean up....then that prefinished beads just mitred for a tight fit on top and pin in with a nail gun. Silicon is good stuff. Even though it sounds odd, It contributes a lot to the strength of the frame. Good stuff. ie. it pays to use silicon even if theirs no need to seal from water. stops rattling etc too.

[Chipman]

At work we hold the glass in with bead. Prefinished, ....we run a thin line of silicon down the centre of the rebate (just the right amount to get a seal but not squeeze out). Glass is sized for a tight fit minus about 3 -4 mm....you want it just drop in. ....any squeeze out of silicon can either be left to dry then cut out with knife,,,or,,,scoop it off with a sharp corner of plastic or whatever straight away...meth on rag to clean up any smudges ...ideally you want to apply just the right amount to begin with so theirs nothing to clean up....then that prefinished beads just mitred for a tight fit on top and pin in with a nail gun. Silicon is good stuff. Even though it sounds odd, It contributes a lot to the strength of the frame. Good stuff. ie. it pays to use silicon even if theirs no need to seal from water. stops rattling etc too.

Hi AR,

That is why I have come to like the thin double sided tape... adds to the strength, allows for slight inconsistencies in the level and no mess to clean up...just trim any excess away with a blade. I have used silicon but I haven't got the right technique or application method and the cleanup was too time consuming. (I just do my own stuff, I am not in the industry at all)

Cheers,

Chipman

[SAISAY]

I use my framing tool on the beads on the back, so easy to remove it necessary and barely noticeable.
Wolffie

[Waldo]

At work we hold the glass in with bead. Prefinished, ....we run a thin line of silicon down the centre of the rebate (just the right amount to get a seal but not squeeze out). Glass is sized for a tight fit minus about 3 -4 mm....you want it just drop in. ....any squeeze out of silicon can either be left to dry then cut out with knife,,,or,,,scoop it off with a sharp corner of plastic or whatever straight away...meth on rag to clean up any smudges ...ideally you want to apply just the right amount to begin with so theirs nothing to clean up....then that prefinished beads just mitred for a tight fit on top and pin in with a nail gun. Silicon is good stuff. Even though it sounds odd, It contributes a lot to the strength of the frame. Good stuff. ie. it pays to use silicon even if theirs no need to seal from water. stops rattling etc too.

Good idea, thanks Jake.

[JDarvall]

Hi AR,

That is why I have come to like the thin double sided tape... adds to the strength, allows for slight inconsistencies in the level and no mess to clean up...just trim any excess away with a blade. I have used silicon but I haven't got the right technique or application method and the cleanup was too time consuming. (I just do my own stuff, I am not in the industry at all)

Cheers,

Chipman

hi mate. It may well be a better an idea. I don't know really. I've never tried tape.

[Chipman]

A question for ApricotRipper,

When you say "a prefinished bead" do you mean by that a thin wooden strip or moulding that has already been stained/varnished the same as the rest of the door and furniture? T

hat is how I do it anyway and then just tack it in with a few brads ...into really hardwood, I always pre-drill the bead with one of the nails. Really, the tape or silicon keeps the glass in as the bead is more for looks I guess or a backup to the glue. Will try and post a pic when I get home this evening.

Another way was discussed by HOBBYHORSE in a thread started by Swifty about his grandfather clock....
"Just re reading this thread. When I built my clock I used a 6mm black braided line stapled in place to secure the glass. Being black it is not really seen at all. The books call it a "glass retainer cord" "


Regards,

Chipman

Here is a pic of a grandfather clock door I did a few years ago... the straight beads were easy, the curved one a bit of a challenge, but that is the way I like it! Note that I made a feature of the brass pins used to tack the beads on.

[Studley 2436]

Is it Carba Tool that does all the router bits? I know in my days making picture frames I did have a catalogue they have online and there were these bits in there to route a window to fit glass and then had a clever trick to the sides would just match up with each other.

Studley