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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    51

    Default best glue for a wooden surfboard

    Hello,

    I'm in Brisbane and am going to have a go at making a surfboard from paulownia. I was thinking I would need an epoxy glue but am not sure what type or where is the best place to buy it. I'm near the city.

    I was intending some type of oil based finish (possibly tung) rather than a varnish or resin.

    Any advice is much appreciated,

    Bob

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,474

    Default

    This is only a guess, 308 recorcinol resin

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    belgrave
    Age
    61
    Posts
    7,934

    Default

    Epoxy is my bet, but if you intend to actually surf with said board instead of make a coffee table I'd seal and varnish it pretty well. A board that gets heavier and heavier through your surfing session might get a bit hard to paddle onto the wave.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    I'll let someone in Brissy respond re the epoxy, but I'm thinking paulownia is pretty soft
    that the core of a surfboard needs to stay dry
    so the finish will need to be resin


    ian

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    belgrave
    Age
    61
    Posts
    7,934

    Default

    The boat building forum might know more.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    nth coast nsw
    Posts
    1,557

    Default

    Hi bgreen, are you going to surf it or is it just for decoration?
    paulownia, although light, is still about 3 times as heavy as balsa, and is much softer (lousy compression strength)
    if you're using it, you'll need to glass it, so a good quality pva will suffice to laminate the boards up,
    and it's going to be a real tank in the ocean,
    there are some guys making hollow construction timber boards, but paulownia just isn't tough enough for that.

    what if the hokey pokey is really what it's all about?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    51

    Default

    Thanks for your replies. The board would not be a decoration. I own a board that is sealed with oil that needs to be reapplied periodically after use, so was planning to continue with this approach. Absorbing water hasn't been a problem to date.

    I have information on Bote Coat Epoxy-E and tried to search 308 recorcinol resin - but my initial search wasn't too successful.

    regards

    Bob
    Last edited by bgreen; 3rd October 2008 at 07:50 AM. Reason: new info

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    I surfed from age 5 through to about 30. First board was a 9'6" hollow ply egg crate construction built by my father for my older sister around 1960. I believe the glue used was most likely Bondcrete, as my father had successfully built a few boats with that over the years. (Tends to leave a dark taint on gluelines and heavy though)

    Second board was a polyester GRF over balsa core commercial board, about 10'6" and lighter than the hollow. Balsa core was carved from a blank formed by laminating 2-3 inch balsa strips. Not absolutely sure about glues used for laminating, but there was no discolouration or ridging along the glue line so it wasn't a hard set glue like epoxy. I suspect a PVA or similar.

    Subsequent boards were all foam cored polyester GRP. Never came accross a board that was oiled for waterproofing, would have thought that the oil/water interface would be too slippery to ride.

    We also used to have/make a variety of belly boards which were a blank of marine ply or 1/2 inch timber with a steam bent curved nose. These were finished in marine paints or varnishes, as was the hollow eggcrate.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,474

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    51

    Default

    All,

    Thanks for your replies. Sealing the board isn't an issue - resin finish, shellac/varnish and oil finishes are all now common in wooden surfboards. Regarding the softness of paulownia, I have one currently. I has some small dings but has stood up well after being riden n all sorts of conditions.

    China - thanks for the Selleys link. I have emailed them as well as reading the info provided..

    Malb - can you tell me more about how you steamed the ply for the bellyboards and the general design? I was considering making one of these as well (despite no woodworking experience - except coming from a family with generations of boat and oar builders in it).

    regards

    Bob

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,122

    Default

    WEST System epoxies are specifically formulated for marine use. Have a look at their users manual at http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/ plus their general website at www.westsystem.com

    Cheers

    Graeme

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    51

    Default

    Graeme,

    thanks. was speaking to my wife's nephew and he also mentioned the West system. I'll see if there is anywhere in Brisbane that stocks it. ATL are down the coast.

    regards

    bob

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,122

    Default

    Bob

    You should not have any problems finding WEST stuff - its widely available. Try yacht chandleries, fibreglass suppliers, specialist paint shops and better hardware stores.

    Its worth reading the literature first; its an entire system. The basic two-pot resin can be used like a varnish or a non-gap filling glue or to wet out fibreglass cloth. You can also add various types and quantities of additives to convert it to a thicker gap filling glue or even into a moldable putty. Its very versatile, but precision is needed in measurements and it can go off fast.

    Its worth doing a couple of small practice jobs.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    51

    Default

    All,

    Some fedback. Selly's advised: "Unfortunately the 308, nor any of our woodworking glues will not last with salt water contact.".

    The Australian rep for West system recommended: Techniglue-CA

    regards

    Bob

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    5

    Default glue

    epiglue for joints KINETIX R104 Surfboard for external finish it is uv stable west is not will yellow depends on the tone of your timber.

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