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  1. #1
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    Default individual speakers to buy

    I have a pair of Roberts mached speakers and one of the speakers in each box has just died, Where could I buy another speaker from in North Brisbane please.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    I have a pair of Roberts mached speakers and one of the speakers in each box has just died, Where could I buy another speaker from in North Brisbane please.

    SB
    What are "Roberts mached speakers"?

    I've never heard of them and I've been in the hi fi biz for 30+ years.

    You'll need to supply much more information. Stuff like:

    * Brand and model number of the speaker (usually found on the rear panel)
    * Country of origin.
    * Approximate age.
    * Size of drivers used.
    * A photograph would be very helpful.
    * Part numbers and brand names on the rear of the individual drivers would be most helpful too.
    Last edited by Zaphod; 11th January 2009 at 09:15 AM. Reason: Brain fart

  4. #3
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    I think they are a UK brand (Roberts Radio) - unlikely to be anything too esoteric speaker wise - pop down to your local Jaycar electronics store with the dead one and find a similar size one.

    To get a better match than that, you'll need to know the Thiele-Small parameters of the speaker.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
    What are "Roberts mached speakers"?

    I've never heard of them and I've been in the hi fi biz for 30+ years.

    You'll need to supply much more information. Stuff like:

    * Brand and model number of the speaker (usually found on the rear panel)
    * Country of origin.
    * Approximate age.
    * Size of drivers used.
    * A photograph would be very helpful.
    * Part numbers and brand names on the rear of the individual drivers would be most helpful too.
    Here are some pics I hope will help.

    They are Roberts from Christchurch NZ and I purchased them in 1986 and cost $1200 then. You will notice the number on the back panel next to the serial number (3b). It means they came off different production lines and were matched so the two speakers in total are the same sound specifications. They did have an info booklet with them that showed the specks as measured during testing but I don't have it now. You can see the said speaker that is the problem and why it's stuffed. The numbers on the back of the magnet read: AD80606W8, 2422 257 48212, Made in Belgium, DD 00 336 5. I believe they are 100 watt capable speakers.

    They are 7" dia inside and 8" on the outside including the fixing holes. I know very little else except they give out a very very good sound and have done so since 1986.

    I hope this adds to your 30+ years knowledge that the kiwis can also foot it with the rest and I'm not a kiwi.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    Here are some pics I hope will help.

    They are Roberts from Christchurch NZ and I purchased them in 1986 and cost $1200 then. You will notice the number on the back panel next to the serial number (3b). It means they came off different production lines and were matched so the two speakers in total are the same sound specifications. They did have an info booklet with them that showed the specks as measured during testing but I don't have it now. You can see the said speaker that is the problem and why it's stuffed. The numbers on the back of the magnet read: AD80606W8, 2422 257 48212, Made in Belgium, DD 00 336 5. I believe they are 100 watt capable speakers.

    They are 7" dia inside and 8" on the outside including the fixing holes. I know very little else except they give out a very very good sound and have done so since 1986.

    I hope this adds to your 30+ years knowledge that the kiwis can also foot it with the rest and I'm not a kiwi.

    SB
    Now you're talking! That is precisely the kind of information I require. The faulty drivers are Philips units. They are (nominally) 200mm (8 inch to our American cousins) drivers. The numbers on the back tell us what you need to know.

    AD8 - 8 inch driver
    W8 - Woofer - 8 Ohm

    The other digits tell all sorts of stuff, I don't recall. I'll see if I can locate some data on the driver, so I can suggest a close replacement. I doubt you'll find an OEM replacement. A couple more questions:

    Are the surviving bass drivers identical units?
    Do they feed into the same space as the faulty drivers?
    Are there any 'ports' in the speaker boxes?
    If so, how big?
    What are the internal dimensions of the enclosure?

    My suggestion is that you replace all four drivers with new ones. With the information you supply, I can make some reasonable suggestions.

    In their day, these would have been quite good speakers. They're a bit past it now, but well worth repairing, IMO.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
    Now you're talking! That is precisely the kind of information I require. The faulty drivers are Philips units. They are (nominally) 200mm (8 inch to our American cousins) drivers. The numbers on the back tell us what you need to know.

    AD8 - 8 inch driver
    W8 - Woofer - 8 Ohm

    The other digits tell all sorts of stuff, I don't recall. I'll see if I can locate some data on the driver, so I can suggest a close replacement. I doubt you'll find an OEM replacement. A couple more questions:

    Are the surviving bass drivers identical units?
    Do they feed into the same space as the faulty drivers?
    Are there any 'ports' in the speaker boxes?
    If so, how big?
    What are the internal dimensions of the enclosure?

    My suggestion is that you replace all four drivers with new ones. With the information you supply, I can make some reasonable suggestions.

    In their day, these would have been quite good speakers. They're a bit past it now, but well worth repairing, IMO.
    Hi Zaphod and thanks for your help.
    Given that the individual speakers you refer to are called drivers, the bottom drivers are the same size 8" but I haven't removed them only measured them. The top driver is 95mm in dia and the second from top is 135mm in dia. All remaining drivers are in excelent condition, it is only the second from bottom drivers in both speaker boxes that are stuffed.

    There are no holes in the speaker boxes of any typ and the internal dimensions of the boxes are 300mm wide x 730mm tall x 175 deep and is made of MDF. The speaker boxes are mounted on stands. There is some white padding type insulation inside the boxes and all drivers are wired to a cental PCB just behind the outside connection panel.

    I have done a serch on the net of the NZ telephone directory and the company is not listed so I expect writing to the address is a waste of time.

    I really only want to replace the two damaged drivers, one in each box at this stage as they get very little use now.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    Hi Zaphod and thanks for your help.
    Given that the individual speakers you refer to are called drivers, the bottom drivers are the same size 8" but I haven't removed them only measured them. The top driver is 95mm in dia and the second from top is 135mm in dia. All remaining drivers are in excelent condition, it is only the second from bottom drivers in both speaker boxes that are stuffed.

    There are no holes in the speaker boxes of any typ and the internal dimensions of the boxes are 300mm wide x 730mm tall x 175 deep and is made of MDF. The speaker boxes are mounted on stands. There is some white padding type insulation inside the boxes and all drivers are wired to a cental PCB just behind the outside connection panel.

    I have done a serch on the net of the NZ telephone directory and the company is not listed so I expect writing to the address is a waste of time.

    I really only want to replace the two damaged drivers, one in each box at this stage as they get very little use now.

    SB
    No problems. Happy to assist. I do not recommend replacing one driver in a pair with such an enclosure. Things can get messy.

    I'll chase down the specs over the next day or two and make some specific suggestions for a suitable replacement. It will not be perfect, since the crossover really needs to be modified in order for the system to perform properly. My usual charges to do that job would elevate the cost of repair out of your reach.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
    I'll chase down the specs over the next day or two and make some specific suggestions for a suitable replacement. It will not be perfect, since the crossover really needs to be modified in order for the system to perform properly. My usual charges to do that job would elevate the cost of repair out of your reach.
    Thanks and looking forward to your advice.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    Thanks and looking forward to your advice.

    SB
    The part I recommend is CW-2196. They will set you back around $40.00 each. They are reasonably close to the originals, but, for best performance, you should replace all four bass drivers. I can supply them (I'm in Southern Sydney), or you can buy direct from Jaycar.
    Last edited by Zaphod; 19th January 2009 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Brain fart

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
    The part I recommend is CW-2196. They will set you back around $40.00 each. They are reasonably close to the originals, but, for best performance, you should replace all four bass drivers. I can supply them (I'm in Southern Sydney), or you can buy direct from Jaycar.
    Hi Zaphod
    Thanks for all your effort, you're a top guy.

    I'll try jaycar as they are close as I live in Brisbane and I'll take your recommendation and replace all 4. Once again, thanks for all your help. What would we do without guys like you.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    Hi Zaphod
    Thanks for all your effort, you're a top guy.

    I'll try jaycar as they are close as I live in Brisbane and I'll take your recommendation and replace all 4. Once again, thanks for all your help. What would we do without guys like you.

    SB
    I'm pleased I could assist.

  13. #12
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    of course the other option is to repair the drivers....depending on what is wrong with them and how keen you are.

    if the voice coils are still in good condition and the main part of the cones are fine....it shuld not be a hard job as long as nothing has been butchered

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  14. #13
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    I am with Soundman on this. From your pictures it looks like the rubberised surrounds are shot. If this is the only, problem generic replacement surrounds and instructions are available from Speakerbits. For apparently good speakers this option is probably worth pursuing.

    Also, looking at your photos it seems that the enclosures were made by a firm called Panther Electronics Ltd and that the model name may have been Roberts.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  15. #14
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    If you are still interested in repairing them PM me. I have a mate that specialises in upmarket Speaker repairs can also arrange pick up and delivery.

    Cheers


    Steve
    Discover your Passion and Patience follows.
    www.fineboxes.com.au

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