shaping plane totes/saw handles

[Tiger]

I am attempting to restore a hand plane at the moment with a broken tote. I have almost finished the tote but it has taken many hours to get the rounded over part. The general shape is easy enough to do on the bandsaw but the endless sanding in order to shape the roundover part is very time-consuming. I tried a spokeshave but it doesn't help around the steep curves of the tote, the rasp I have just chattered its way along and tore out wood rather than smoothing the work. File/sandpaper worked ok but very slow and rough. I am using Tasmanian oak and that may be contributing to the roughness. I recall someone using a roundover part on a router but it has inherent dangers and I would like to use hand tools/safer tools if possible to complete the job. What other tools could you use or have you used to do this sort of job as I intend to replace some other totes and make some saw handles?

[AlexS]

You need a patternmakers' rasp. Nicholson make them (available from Veritas, but probably other places in Australia too), and I think there are also Japanese & Italian versions. The teethe are randomly placed, so you don't rip great grooves out, and you have much more control.

[BobL]

The best tool is "patience"

I presume you have cut the basic shape out with a band or jig saw?

I'd also persist with the rasp to help get the basic shape.

I also use the following, large coarse round files, dremel with sanding drum attached to get to tight inside corners, inverted belt sander to assist wit large outer curves.

The most difficult tote handle I've had to make is this one.

This wood is called Raspberry Jam and it is as hard as Gidgee so it took some time but it was worth it. Patience was the main tool.

[RayG]

Hi Tiger,

Pretty much, what others have said, the best rasps for shaping handles are Auriou, but they are expensive, and can be difficult to find,

I would recommend files as a cheap alternative, (particularily if you are only going to make a few) you can get them cheaply at Bunnies.

Also for the rough shaping, you could glue 40/60/80 grit to some dowel of the right diameter.

Mountain Ash (Tasmanian oak) is a bit prone to splitting (and splinters) for my liking, but with a bit of care, it should be ok. It wouldn't be my first choice for a tote however.

Regards
Ray

[orraloon]

A half round rasp is a great tool to shape wood. You will be surprised how quick it can remove wood. It does not need to be an expensive one to cut wood. Follow up with a course file to remove rasp marks. The half round again. Then sand with whatever you have. A drum sander in the drill press is handy as are belt sanders.
Always keep files for wood and metal seperate. After use on metal they are not good for wood any more.
Regards
John

[Tiger]

Thanks guys, looks like rasps are the way to go. You're right about the difficulty of finding quality rasps, I'm tempted to go to Bunnies and buy a couple but generally speaking how long would you expect a rasp to last?

By the way Bob, nice work on the jam wood, how much time did that take you?

[Sawdust Maker]

what about a microplane
can get them from carbatec or even good cooking shops link here

[derekcohen]

I very much doubt that you will find any new rasps for sale in Australia. Bunnies certaonly do not have any, and the Nicholson "wood rasp" they sell is an abomination.

The cheapest proper rasps are http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Fi...cut_Rasps.html

The best value are http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...egory_Code=TRR

And the best quality are http://www.forge-de-saint-juery.com/

There are many ways to skin a cat. I used files and sandpaper on dowels for years before I invested in Aurios. It was worth it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[rhancock]

I'm a recent convert to rasps too. I picked up a few at markets or garage sales while building up my tool kit, just because they were there and cheap - usually a dollar or two. I gave them a couple of hours in diluted vinegar, then a scrub with a wire brush, and most of them have come up really well - not pretty, some are even broken off, but very serviceable.

Now whenever I need to shape something, the first thing I do is open the drawer of rasps and files.

Aurios send me emails every now and then, just to keep me drooling.

[derekcohen]

If you want to keep files and rasps sharp, do not let them touch each other, never scrub them with a wire brush, and clean them in a mild solution of citric acid. Hang them up.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[rhancock]

As Derek says, never, ever scrub with a wire brush...

Woops.

I promise to be more gentle with my rasps from now on.

[pommyphil]

This may be the dark side but a 1/2" radius roundover bit would be a good start, then the
hand shaping.

[Poppa]

I was also taught to use rasps on a diagonal for finer shaping. If you use a rasp at 90 degrees to the wood it will tear out quite aggressively. If you use it on a diagonal it gives a much finer scraping and enables shaping to a reasonably smooth finish (which can then be finished with sandpaper). Rasps also come in different coarseness gradings - I think it would be useful to have a coarser and a finer rasp. The coarse rasps really hog out timber, while the finer ones shape gently, especially when used diagonally. I also concur with the comments above that a quality rasp is a world away from the cheap and nasties. But then I've been known to use a file if it is the right shape and gives a gentle enough finish!

[Woodlee]

A file card is the proper tool to use to clean a file ,it's actually a type of wire brush with short stiff wires on a wooden backing board.It is placed across the file and pushed in the direction of the cut of the file, in one direction only.
Can be purchased from engineering supply places, must get a new one mine is rather tatty after 30 odd years.Incidently I've had most of the files I have for the same amount of time. If you look after them ,keep them clean ,and sharpen them in cleaning vinegar they will last a life time.

Kev.

[Tiger]

Not too much to choose from Bunnies, Nicholson and Bahco.

Derek, what do you see as the main problem with Nicholsons?

Richard, I have seen cheap rasps at flea markets as well, wonder how they compare with the better quality ones that Derek has highlighted. Are any of the ones that Derek has mentioned available in Australia?