Help! Need a new chuck, I think

[MarkInBoatshed]

When using a long bit in my drill press recently I noticed the end was cavitating like it wanted to become a helicopter.

The press came second-hand with the contents of a workshop and is a Delta 12" model 11-990, from the late 1990s, light use.

I have tested the taper with a dial indicator and found virtually no runout; my indicator measures to 0.01mm and I estimate the taper may deviate 0.005mm. This seems acceptable to me, for novice woodwork; I think it might even be excellent (please correct me at will).

For what it's worth, the outside of the chuck shows very little runout, about 0.03mm; just checked that to verify my perceived problem, which is: when I chuck a new bit and measure runout on the shaft, about 25mm below the chuck jaws, I get 0.3mm runout. Checked with different bits, same result.

It seems I need a new chuck. If I've got that right, can anyone recommend a brand or supplier of a high grade chuck?

The chuck is marked LP 13m/m (1/2")-J33.

About how much does a really good one cost? Is this good money after bad? If I choose to buy a new drill press, what brand/models (benchtop) will assure me I won't buy the same problem?

Thanks,
Mark

[Greg Q]

Typical chuck runout is greater than you'd think. What you are seeing does not seem excessive, but it could be better. If you can get the chuck off the arbor, it might be helpful to indicate the taper that resides in the chuck. If that's good then your chuck is indeed the culprit.

Some good brands are Albrecht in keyless, and Jacobs ball bearing in conventional. (The older style called "super chuck", with an "N" suffix in the part numberi.e. 18N. Jacobs still sells rebuild kits for these chucks)

There is a new morse taper 2 Metabo keyless on ebay right now.

Your helicopter might be a bent drill bit.

Greg

[MarkInBoatshed]

Thanks Greg, I will seek out Albrecht or Jacobs.

Does J33 refer to a 'universal' tapered spindle model (like, for instance, MT2)?

[Greg Q]

Hi..I just re-read your initial post and wanted to clarify my comments:

The runout you are indicating in the taper is uncommonly good. 5 microns seems almost improbable in a consumer grade drill.

The drill bit runout of 0.3mm is way too much (I had misread it as 0.03).

I think its a generic Chinese chuck. (I think I had one of those on my drill press, but it was only in the shop for about half an hour, then the rubbish got collected.)

You might have some luck getting a chuck on ebay. I purchased three that way about a year ago and lucked out. I mentioned Albrecht and Jacobs because there are repair parts available. As more and more products get cheapened I find it less vexing to buy old stuff and fix it than buy new. There are also plenty of online repair tutorials for guidance

The "J33" should refer to the taper in the chuck. If you have a look at drill arbors you can see that they have two tapers...one a morse or similar to go into the quill, and the other a J series (although there are others) to fit the chuck.

There are several morse tapers...you'll need to know which is on your press. Probably a #2 or #3. Your existing arbor must be iffy going by the runout that you indicate on your chuck body (0.03mm). Your chuck may have been made with that degree of eccentricity or it could be the arbor. Since these are ground they should be more concentric than 0.03.

On brands: I hear Rohm chucks are well regarded, although I have only one of those, on my hammer drill. It works smoothly and is the nicest portable drill chuck I've ever had.

Greg

[MarkInBoatshed]

Many thanks for your help and education, Greg.

I have ordered a new Jacobs chuck; I don't quite feel up to following your example of constructing chucks from parts.

But I understand one thing perfectly: as what is available becomes cheaper I despair of finding quality.

My question about buying a new drill press answered itself as I searched the net...there was nothing available I could buy and feel assured of quality. [There are threads discussing the quality of JET; many are happy but it seems consistency is an issue].

There may be a quality producer/importer somewhere but he has not got around to a website yet.

Thanks again and best regards,
Mark

[Greg Q]

Oh, on the drill press issue: They're all crap, but useable crap. The drill press seems to be one of the first tools to migrate to Asian production. Some of them are OK though. I have heard Waldown drills spoken of highly, but have zero experience. They made a neat looking small radial arm drill which would be handy.

You might want to search Arboga on ebay...a Swedish make of geared head drill that is serious. They are still sold (or clones?) by Ron Mack Machinery.
I see them from time to time fetch around $1500...the modern versions are $6K ish.

Otherwise be on the lookout for a jig bore when they come up. I saw one go last week for $800, tooled. (Its new price in 1990 was $72,000.00 + shipping&tax).

Jig Bores at their simplest are extremely accurate drills...on the order of a couple of microns or less in positioning. There are even more elaborate versions, all of which are obsolete now owing to CNC and precision position locating.

Another possibility if you have space, a crane, strong floor and power is a smal radial arm drill. There was an Arboga on ebay last month for $1500

On Rohm chucks: I see that the keyless version is on my Festool drill too. I take Festool's word for it that its a quality item.

Greg

[MarkInBoatshed]

Hi Greg,

Thanks again for your sage advice.

My new Jacobs chuck seems to be very true. I have not measured runout but I chucked a new, long drill bit and rotated it next to a square set on the table. To my eyes, not a scintilla of variation.

With that result (the same bit in the old chuck cavitated hugely, visibly) I am probably a bit scared to get out the dial indicator.....

Without your help I did not know how to start.

Best regards,
Mark

[Greg Q]

Hi Mark.

I am happy to help, and more happy that you found it useful. Thanks too for the mention...often times a thank-you gets overlooked.

Glad it worked out for you.

Greg