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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    14

    Default Advice needed on router table

    Im using a 40mm benchtop. Chipboard laminated with mdf both sides.

    Unfortunately my router doesnt have alot of downward travel so I need rout out 28mm leaving only 12mm.

    I havnt done it yet (as per picture) it needs another pass its currently at 20mm.

    There are 4 mounting holes around the base of the router which will take screws coming down from the top of the benchtop.

    My concern is strength. Do you guys think that it will hold ?

    I took a picture of my router to show the thread the handles are supposed to use. They are 15.5mm diameter. I was considering using them aswell that way I can get bolts through the 40mm part of the board and that might save me.

    Cheers

    Tommy






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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Tolmie - Victoria
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,010

    Default

    I'm not so sure with the MDF.

    Is there a way of mounting the router on a metal sheet (maybe 6mm thick) and rebating the metal sheet into the top of the bench? That way you retain the thickness of your bench less 6mm plus have more travel with your router.
    - Wood Borer

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    I'd consider routing out the whole area and mounting your router to a phenolic plate. They are only about 10mm thick, but can carry the weight of the Triton 2400W router without drama.

    That's the commercial version of what Wood Borer is referring to anyway! you could make your own from 6mm structural grade aluminium for very little $$

    Both Professional Woodworkers Supplies and Carbatec sell versions of the phenolic plates (don't know the quality differences between them.



    Costs vary, but they start at about $55.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Sounds like the way to go. I was trying to keep the budget for this job as low as possible (so far I havnt spent anything) but I love the concept much better than what I was going to do.

    Iv got a 3mm steel plate I might use that and see how I go. I know it dosnt sound great but it appears to be rigid and strong. Worst case scenario I can just increase the depth of the rebate and add a thicker steel plate in the event it twists or bends. Ill have to replace it at a later date either way because its got other holes in it from previous use but hopefully it suits my purposes for the time bieng.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    fff
    Posts
    394

    Default

    Nice thing about mounting from the top, you can add some reinforcements
    around the cut out on the bottom side.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Mounted the plate and router today. Its giving me the impression of good rigidity im pretty happy with it for the next few weeks. Need to get some work knocked out in a hurry but will upgrade to a thicker plate after that. The problem with this plate which is about 3.2 mm (apart from the potential to warp) is that the taper on the screw heads is 3mm, so by the time its countersunk properly there is only a whisker of thread available. Still seems to fasten nice and tight but could be better. Spot on with the suggestion of 6mm wood borer thats what i'll upgrade it to. Not too keen on the ali Stuart because of concern about wear on the thread.

    Need to add the fence and do a few other incidentals but should be done soon will post pics.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default All plastics ain't the same......

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
    I'd consider routing out the whole area and mounting your router to a phenolic plate. They are only about 10mm thick, but can carry the weight of the Triton 2400W router without drama.

    That's the commercial version of what Wood Borer is referring to anyway! you could make your own from 6mm structural grade aluminium for very little $$

    Both Professional Woodworkers Supplies and Carbatec sell versions of the phenolic plates (don't know the quality differences between them.



    Costs vary, but they start at about $55.
    Hi all,

    The pictured plate is made from ABS a thermoplastic or recyclable plastic. i.e. something that melts. Common ABS plasticproducts are telephones and other appliance bodies. Phenolics on the other hand are thermosetting plastic, which can't be recycled or melted, typical uses are industrial transformer components etc.

    The weight of a TRA001 will most likely cause an ABS plate to sag in a hot Aussie shed. Think of Phenolic Plates as a 10mm thick piece of solid laminex, non sag, durable....

    Regards

    Grahame

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    I'll second that. I have the 10mm phenolic plate from Professional Woodworkers Supplies - after 2 years, it is still perfectly flat even with the bigger Triton router attached.

    The 'plastic' plate from Carbatec isn't in the same league, mainly because it isn't even flat to start with !! I bought two of these Carbatec cheap mounting plates to use in a dual router setup (for my Gifkins Jig), but measured >1mm variation across the tops of both. In the end I mounted the routers directly in a thick MDF panel, and took the plates back for a refund. To Carbatec's credit they didn't argue - I got the feeling that they get a few of these plates back.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Thanks Grahame - good to get the extra info!
    I've got a PWS phenolic plate as well - didn't realise the ones sold in Carbatec were not, and as such would be completely useless in my shed. They'd probably drip all over the floor in my shed in summer!
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gwhat View Post
    Hi all,

    The pictured plate is made from ABS a thermoplastic or recyclable plastic. i.e. something that melts. Common ABS plasticproducts are telephones and other appliance bodies. Phenolics on the other hand are thermosetting plastic, which can't be recycled or melted, typical uses are industrial transformer components etc.

    The weight of a TRA001 will most likely cause an ABS plate to sag in a hot Aussie shed. Think of Phenolic Plates as a 10mm thick piece of solid laminex, non sag, durable....

    Regards

    Grahame
    Thank you for that information Grahame, good to get it "straight from the horse's mouth" so to speak.

    I remember giving the same information not that long ago in a thread on router plates and being told, in no uncertain terms, that I was wrong.

    BTW, good to see you back on deck again, hope everything is heading in the right direction.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Ok heres my take on a router table. Just need to cut a hole in the fence.

    Iv offset a few of my spanners so that I can easily change bits while the router remains mounted in the table. Got myself some transfer punches too, will ensure that when I get the 6mm plate the holes will be spot on.

    Everything is flush and level, did test cuts with a slot cutter to check for accuracy and im really pleased with it.




  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Tolmie - Victoria
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,010

    Default

    Fantastic Router Table - much better than the one you were considering.

    Now we need to see the finished projects made from this machine.
    - Wood Borer

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