what would you seal kwila with to accept a water based stain ?

[JDarvall]

shellac ? ....or a sanding sealer ?

thanks

Jake

[tea lady]

I thought you wet it down evenly with water so that it will stain evenly. Unless its end grain then maybe use sanding sealer. (Not that I'm an expert. Just read books and mags. I have only used water based stain on small things and not even Kwilla. )

[Cruzi]

????

Why stain kwila, it is a light golden brown colour when first cut and sanded but it turns a very dark brown in just a few months

[chippy 71]

shellac ? ....or a sanding sealer ?

thanks

Jake

This may sound a silly question but, considering the colour and grain of Kwila, why would you stain it?
I would have thought a clear finish would would look the best!

Colin.

[Honorary Bloke]

Jake,

I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know.

Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.

[tea lady]

Jake,

I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know. Having read ubeauts instructions he says to dilute white shellac with metho to make sanding sealer.

Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.

Kwill/Murbu bleeds black everywhere doesn't it. So I guess sealing is kinda a good idea.

[chippy 71]

Jake,

I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know.

Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.

The original question was, "What would you seal Kwila with to accept a water based stain?"
I was not querying the sealing of the Kwila, I was asking why, considering the colour and grain, would you stain it?

Colin.

[JDarvall]

sorry , I probably should describe it better.

I'm making a couple of windsor chairs. Different timbers for different parts of the chair. And the legs happen to be kwila this time around, because its hardwood and I got offcuts of it that fit the length right.. But both chairs will be painted with black milk paint.

I made a small stool earlier using kwila. And I noticed the paint didn't take too it. It did in places, but others it seemed like it didn't want to stick. So thats why I'm concerned, since its being an oily sort of timber.

I know it sounds odd painting a chair, but I think it look a lot worse if I left it natural with a pine seat and kwila legs. mismatched timbers look a bit odd for me, and its traditional to paint them anyway.

sounds like a should just try shellac. thanks.

[Harry72]

Jake try the dye before sealing, you want the water to penetrate not sit on the surface.

If your having trouble getting paint to stick too oily wood try wiping it down with some dewaxer.

[JDarvall]

thanks Harry.

Jake try the dye before sealing, you want the water to penetrate not sit on the surface.

yep. thats whats happened with the stool I think.

If your having trouble getting paint to stick too oily wood try wiping it down with some dewaxer.

what kind of de-waxer would you recommend? I really should work on my finishing skills.

[Cruzi]

Acetone also works to remove oily residue on timbers, you can buy Septone de-waxer at Super Cheap Auto.

[JDarvall]

Ta Cruzi. I've got some acetone. will give that a go.

[Harry72]

Any good yet?

[JDarvall]

haven't done it yet. today sometime.

[Bleedin Thumb]

Jake, the Flood companies SpaNDeck system does that. Use the power lift and then the dekswood cleaner.

That will get rid of the oils and tannins enough to get an even stain.