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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up Hull materials summary and progress report

    Hi Michael,

    Thank you for the info on how excess weight doesn't affect the the PDRacer too much, even now that I am just 104kg ( better than the 128kg that I was 12 months ago ) I am still the biggest piece of excess weight.

    Of the 4 large pieces of Durien I purchased, 3 large pieces that I used had a calculated density of 0.4883045 ( as mentioned in an e-mail to you way back in 18 July 2008 - yes I still have them ), the other large piece of it was lower density.

    From these 4 large pieces I ripped all of the framing, mast, boom, yard, tiller, and foil timber ( all the solid timber for the PDRacer ).

    I have used 1 sheet of 6mm 8' x 4' marine ply for the bottom, and about 2.25 sheets of 4mm 8' x 4' marine ply everywhere else.

    All fibreglass taping has been done with 75mm ( 3" ) fibreglass tape ( deck joints, and all hull seams below deck level ).

    Resin coating has been applied using a spreader, or a paint brush, I have only just started to use a foam roller to apply the resin for the fibreglass tape ( this method appears to apply it more thinly ).

    Progress report
    In the last few days I have started cutting out the centreboard slot, fibreglass taped all the hull seams ( just needs a recoat and fairing ). Cut the mast pieces to length and marked out the tapers, and temporarily screwed down the three 8mm thick x 30mm wide rubbing strips on the bottom of the hull. And lastly resin coated the other side of the ply for the rudder boxes.

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Don't forget the bolt through the tiller and the rudderbox ... what great progress of working through all the details! Cool

    MIK

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

    Default

    I'll second Mik's last comment... Do not Forget to through-bolt the tiller, rudder box, and gudgeons!

    Nothing ruins a good sail like the skipper saying, "The rudder broke... I have no steering..." (and, in a quieter voice, after a short pause) "we left the oars on the shore..."

    It was still a good sail!

    Bob

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi Bob,

    Thanks for the good advice, my oars are going to be stored by being tied to the gunwales along the hull sides ( as some of the US PDRacer users do it ), and I am through bolting the rudder fittings to the hull ( I have heard what happens if you don't from others posts ).

    I am also taking the extra precautionof using a surfboard ankle teather to ensure I don't get seperated from the boat if I fall overboard, but the boat remains upright.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dhgomm View Post
    I am also taking the extra precautionof using a surfboard ankle teather to ensure I don't get seperated from the boat if I fall overboard, but the boat remains upright.
    Is that safe? Advisable?

    I understand the advantages of not watching the boat sail away, but tying yourself to the boat just seems like a recipe for getting tangled or a clout on the head. Besides, if you let go of the mainsheet, doesn't the boat depower and not go very far, very fast?

    Richard

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dhgomm View Post
    I am also taking the extra precaution of using a surfboard ankle teather to ensure I don't get seperated from the boat if I fall overboard, but the boat remains upright.
    Hi Dave, Daddles is pretty well right in this, but I'm not going to argue one way or the other because if you feel safer this way, just do it. It's not like you can't rip the tether off whenever you want. You should have a hold of the sheet and the tiller, so to be separated, a few things have to conspire against you, like

    • the sheet was cleated
    • the tiller got stuck
    • you fell off without holding onto anything at all


    But stranger things have happened on the water, and when it comes to promoting boat safety, you won't find me disagreeing with you.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi Richard and Woodeneye,

    Thank you both for your replies, I think my reasons for using the teather in light of the conditions where I intend sailing are sensible ( see below ), if they prove the teather not to be needed I will consider no longer using it at that time ( I am still relatively inexperienced with sailing, or local conditions ).

    There is very little to get tangled on in a PDRacer ( almost no rigging etc. ), but the teather is 8 feet long and slightly elastic, so even if I capsize I could still swim round to right the boat without undoing the teather ( easily undone velcro fastening on the ankle ), or hitting my head.

    Because I am not a strong swimmer, but could swim slowly ( but safely ) to the bank on either side of the river, I could not realistically swim fast enough to catch the boat in a current ( There are a few of these in parts of the Swan River as the tide goes out ) or if the boat was just blown around by gusts of wind ( even without the sails catching any wind, which would make it go even faster ).

    hanging on to the tiller might save you ( or the tiller might break because of the strange angle you are holding it at as you fell overboard ), the mainsheet would however make a great lifeline, if you remained holding on to it ( cleating it is only needed if sailing longer distances, and I believe against the PDracer race rules ).

    The teather is just my Idea of a sensible safety precaution ( and it will make me "feel" safer ), all it would need is an unanticipated wake from a passing speedboat ( there are quite a few in the Swan River - and they don't always slow down much, or give way ), to possibly cause you to fall overboard suddenly.

    I would rather take the extra precaution, and find it not needed, than be caught out, unable to catch my boat, I do agree however, in many sailing conditions it would certainly be unneccesary.

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Collie
    Posts
    93

    Default

    Hi David, if you use the tether I would suggest not attaching it to your ankle because if for some reason the boat keeps moving you will be dragged feet first and probably drowned.

    I think the best way to attach it would be on a quick release at chest height. I did a swiftwater rescue course last week and we use PFDs with a built in quick release chest strap for live bait rescues etc and one of the cardinal rules is to never tie yourself off to a rope without a quick release.

    regards
    Kelvin

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi kevin,

    Thank you for your input and concern, I think the following may help to alleviate any worries etc

    The surfboard teather has a 360 degree, stainless steel bearing mounted swivel on the ankle strap ( could also be wrapped around a wrist ), which has velcro fastening, for quick release.

    The "rope" is 8mm thick, 8' long ( unstretched ) moulded synthetic monofilament substance, slightly elastic to absorb shock/sudden loads without injuring/ripping your leg/arm off, and is integrally moulded to the swivel.

    Individuals use ( not club members ) of boats in a river ( which is the only place I want to use my PDRacer ) do not require a PFD ( at least in WA ), however I may get a PFD type 2 ( required for PD racing under the rules, or when sailing with a club ), at a future time, but I have not yet seen any PFD type 2, that has any type of harness capability.

    Chest harnesses are available seperately ( intended for ocean use in rough/extreme weather to tie a lifeline to ), but are a lot more expensive than the surfboard teather, which I feel is a good compromise.

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    If it was a bigger boat there might be a lot of concern about being dragged. A PDR is so light and so unstable with nobody on board It is not going to stay upright for long.

    So rather than a lot of concern ... I have some concern to see how it really works. I would certainly practice jumping in the water on a sunny day in warm water to see what happens in good conditions.

    MIK

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi Michael,

    As always, good advice, the true test of any Idea is to put it into practice under "actual conditions" and see what happens, then you can see what, if any, changes need to be made.

    However I do value other peoples opinions, because like the rest of us, I can't think of everything, or from every possible point of view.

    I will test my Idea, and report on it when I go sailing ( after completing my PDRacer first ), I will have to try on both windy and calm days, and lastly, when the tide is going out ( strongest currents ), to cover the maximum variety of conditions.

    This will also serve as good practice for righting, and re-boarding the PDRacer after a capsize, or just falling overboard.

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    It is always good to go through this process to some extent. The second thing I did with the original PDRacers was go and do a capsize.

    Which was when I found out the best way to get up was just to lie back in the water and pull down on the tip of the centreboard - just consistent pressure.

    MIK

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up Progress Report

    Hi everyone,

    Just finished fairing the fibreglass tape back on all hull seams, and finished cutting out the slot for the centreboard.

    I shaped the 3 skids/external floor reinforcements and glued them down, I made oversize holes in them and used self tappers to avoid splitting the ends.

    I also glued the framing pieces to the rudderbox sides as a first step in the rudderbox assembly.

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi Michael,

    Thanks for the reminder, I have no intention of forgetting anything as critical as the bolt through the tiller ( attaching it to the rudder box ), or through bolting the rudder hinges to the stern.

    I am also through bolting a eye bolt between the rudder hinges on the stern ( eye on the inside of the cockpit ) to serve as an anchor point for the other end of the ankle tether, and also for the ( optional outboard motor ) safety chain, something that others easily overlook.

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