David Gomm - New OZ PDRacer Lug Rig Variant under construction in Perth WA

[dhgomm]

Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum, I have been constructing my new OZ PDRacer since October last year, named 'Shrimp' ( because PDRacers are very small ), Hull #280 on 'Shorty's' international register.



I have been working on a new webpage at http://members.dodo.net.au/~davidgom...r/pdracer.html
There are pictures at key stages of construction and detailed pictures of my modifications to date, with explanations, with other useful information coming soon, such as, materials used, local suppliers, constrction methods used, etc.

I will also be adding to my existing 'Useful Links' webpage, links to other PDRacer websites, and local suppliers websites.

I hope you enjoy your visit.

[m2c1Iw]

Hi David,
Thanks for the link, nice work.

A mod I would do on the next build is add bit of extra something along the inner edge of the side decks as I have found lifting the boat via this area does tend to induce some disconcerting cracking noises. This might also be because I was being too clever in reducing the size of the coaming from Miks plans, oh well.
In fact now that I think about it some reinforcing can be added anytime.

Look forward to some pics of the splash.

Mike

[Boatmik]

You could cover the coaming in carbon Mike!

[dhgomm]

Hi Everyone,
Just a suggestion, Mike, but you could simply find a better location to grab when carrying your PDRacer.

I will be adding the last of the new info to my PDRacer web page later tonight ( you got it here first !!! ) including:
Here is some info on 'Durien' that I told Michael I would share with every one.
I have chosen to use a hardwood called ‘Durien’ ( imported from Malaysia or Indonesia I think ), because the other timbers specified for the PDRacer are not available, at reasonable prices or quality in Perth.
‘Durien’ has a natural long reasonably straight grain with no knots in even the longest pieces
( perfect for masts, booms etc.), looks similar to ‘Meranti’, but has densities ranging from about 0.3 - 0.5. ( the lower densities are a mottled orange with a 'Balsa Wood' like interior ).
I used mainly the denser pieces for structural parts ( 0.48 measured by me ), and obtained a piece of lighter density ( about 0.38 estimated ), purely by chance ( When you order the timber you don’t get a choice on density - that I know of ).
I purchased 3 lengths ( 1 x 2100mm, 1 x 2400mm, 1 x 42mm - all 150mm x 50mm ), and 1 x 3000mm x 175mm x 50mm.
I used my new ‘Triton Saw Table’ ( 50mm max. cutting depth easily portable - with detachable circular saw - included ) to cut them down to size. I had help from a friend giving instruction, and cutting the longest pieces.
The 4 pieces were cut into every size needed to make 100% of the boat ( some later modifications were made of laminated off cuts from the last of the timber ( less wastage that way ).

Here is some info on 'Bote-Cote' that I told Michael I would share with every one.
I conducted a simple buoyancy test of cured ‘Bote-Cote’ ‘Glue’ mixture ( 2 parts resin, 1 part hardener, 3 parts super strength ‘fillet glue powder’ ), by holding a leftover cured piece under water and watching what happened when I let go. The result: it floated to the surface very quickly, and floated about 50% submerged, definitely buoyant.
I conducted a simple buoyancy test of cured ‘Bote-Cote’ ‘Filler’ mixture ( 2 parts resin, 1 part hardener, 6 parts super strength ‘fillet glue powder’ ), by holding a leftover cured piece under water and watching what happened when I let go. The result: it floated to the surface slowly , and floated about 80% submerged, definitely buoyant.
The results of these tests lead me to believe that my PDRacer ( empty ) may even float if all buoyancy chambers were flooded ( the deck would probably be level with the water surface though ), how safe is that.

[m2c1Iw]

You could cover the coaming in carbon Mike!

I can't believe you said that

[johnt49]

Hi David

tried to access your web link but get an error. Can you check it, please? I'm in Perth, looking for wood for a GIS, and have seen the prices! Interested in your observations on wood.

[Boatmik]

it was working.

MIK

[dhgomm]

He everyone,

My website was the victim of an unknown problem, but thanks to John and Michael allerting me, ( which was the first I knew there even was a problem ). and a very frustrating call to tech support ( which e v e n t u a l l y led to a cure ), my website is now fighting fit and fully cured, and hopefully it won't suffer any more ailments.

[Boatmik]

Well done David ... very nice to have you and the site back!

MIK

[dhgomm]

Hi everyone,

Sorry, I haven't posted for a while, I have encountered another delay due to illness, as a result I still haven't finished sealing the insides of the bouyancy chambers yet before fitting the decks permanently.

It may be a month or more before I can continue, but I will get there in the end ( even if I do set a record for the slowest PDRacer construction ).

[dhgomm]

Hi Everyone,

I am pleased to report that my ilnesses are at last giving me a break, and I have lost 25Kg so far this year, witch should make me a more suitable skipper in a race ( the race rules don't seem to cover extra weight of skippers as a handicap ).

I have now put the first of 2 coats of resin on the side deck undersides, by next Monday, I should be able to also put on the second coat of resin to seal the side buoyancy tanks and deck undersides, the cockpit framing, and glue on the side decks finally,

Then I will need to start work on sealing the front buoyancy chamber and foredeck underside, before glueing them together, which will complete the major construction work on the hull. ( until all this is done it will still look very similar to the picture at the start of this thread, witch shows the hull with all deck sections in place temporarily )

[Boatmik]

Nice to have you back David!

You can coat the undersides of decks with the three coats just before you glue them on permanently. Can save time.

MIK

[dhgomm]

Thanks Mik,

I know about wet on wet application from your plans, and the forum, but prefer to apply ( 2 ) thicker coats with a brush after letting each coat dry first, rather than trying to overtax myself.

I have now recoated all the cockpit framing ( ply panels aready have 2 coats ), and rear buoyancy tanks, so I just need to recoat the side deck undersides Tomorrow to allow gluing the side decks down on Monday.

Hopefully it will only take about another weeks work to complete the front buoyancy chamber.

I will then add my bottom of hull, floor stiffening battens.( 8mm x 30mm ), and open up the slot for the centreboard, and add the fibreglass reinforcing on the chines etc, before giving the hull a sand, and finishing coat of resin.

[Boatmik]

Cool David,

Sounds like you have found a method that works for you. That is the best anyone can hope

MIK

[dhgomm]

Hi everyone,

The side decks have now been glued into place, completing the rear buoyancy chambers, and only one day behind schedule so far.

I am having a break Tomorrow, but will start resin coating the front buoyancy chamber and underside of the foredeck on Thursday, if the rain is not too heavy,