contact adhesive. Solvent?

[jerryc]

I have blundered. Working on kitchen I neeeded to attach two sections of jarrah to create a single panel. The wood is 5mm thick and I carefully planed the edges until the join was invisible. I had to attach them to a vertical chipboard surface and there was no apparent way to clamp the jarrah. That's when I stupidly decided to use contact adhesive. I would never use it on proper veneer but felt that the 5mm planks were OK.
Wrong! The planks have moved and a gap of about a millimetre has appeared in the lower section. Looks like I have got to remove them. I have figured out a way to attach the panels but need to get them off the chipboard undamaged.
I think I can get under the lower edge of the panels using a chisel as a wedge, but I doubt I can go very far without damaging the jarrah. So I need to attack the contact.

Any thoughts?

Jerry

[mic-d]

I have blundered. Working on kitchen I neeeded to attach two sections of jarrah to create a single panel. The wood is 5mm thick and I carefully planed the edges until the join was invisible. I had to attach them to a vertical chipboard surface and there was no apparent way to clamp the jarrah. That's when I stupidly decided to use contact adhesive. I would never use it on proper veneer but felt that the 5mm planks were OK.
Wrong! The planks have moved and a gap of about a millimetre has appeared in the lower section. Looks like I have got to remove them. I have figured out a way to attach the panels but need to get them off the chipboard undamaged.
I think I can get under the lower edge of the panels using a chisel as a wedge, but I doubt I can go very far without damaging the jarrah. So I need to attack the contact.

Any thoughts?

Jerry

Jerry I think your best bet is to try and heat the glue with a heat gun and gradually prise it away. Eucalyptus oil might work but it might interfere with your refinishing/reattaching plans. I don't think acetone or ethyl acetate will do much, toluene, dichloromethane or chloroform could soften it but they are not readily available. If you get them off, apparently the residue can be hardened and chipped off by melting it and rubbing talc into it. Then let it cool. I just read this on the internet and we all know not to believe everything that is written there

Cheers
Michael

[blouis79]

Acetone is fine for dissolving contact adhesive. (around $10/litre) Haven't had to use it on wood, but works great on metal and plastic/rubber. So you could try dripping it into the crack little by little. Patience will be virtuous when working with stretchy contact glue. Time and a little pressure should ensure the wood comes off intact. I'd use solvent rather than heat. Contact can often be rolled off a surface but last time I did that on a large surface got blistered thumb!

[China]

Turps!

[Superbunny]

Turps!

I agree.

SB

[blouis79]

But how do you get the turps out after? Acetone leaves no residue after it evaporates.

[mic-d]

Turps will not dissolve cured contact cement, neither will acetone.

Cheers
Michael

[Peter36]

Go with Micd. Carefully lever the veneer up and direct the heat under the veneer.5mm jarrah would be quite strong

Cheers

[AUSSIE]

Methyl ethyl ketone MEK
is the stuff .It takes the sticky out of the contact adhesive leaving dry rubber that rolls off easilyOld floor tiles that were stuck with contact came off easily and the floor cleaned like it never had contact on it at all. Dont know if you can still get it.It isnt very nice stuff to use.I wouldnt use it again.I nearly passed out and felt very strange a few times using it

[blouis79]

Turps will not dissolve cured contact cement, neither will acetone.

Cheers
Michael

http://www.woodworking-online.com/fo...ic.php?t=10136

[China]

mic-d sorry but you are not correct if i had dollar for the amount of times I have used turps to do exactly that job I'd be a very wealthy man

[mic-d]

I don't intend to argue the point, if you find it works. Here is a table of solvents and their uses in a woodworking environment, I hope it provides useful information on the optimal solvent for different situations.

Cheers
Michael

[blouis79]

Thanks for the google book link mik-d - very useful.

Hexane is great stuff. It's the main ingredient in "Undo", about $8 for 30mL. It will release self adhesive stickers, evaporate and leave the stickers sticky for reuse.

For contact glue, this guy also reckons acetone.

http://www.rickresource.com/forum/vi...?f=13&t=384399

Flutemakers use contact adhesive to hold corks to silver and use acetone to get the stuff off again for repairs, which is where I've been using it.