PDA

View Full Version : Jaws question



orraloon
6th July 2009, 12:19 PM
Hello all,
I have a question on jaws for the supernova chuck. I have so far managed with the 50mm standard jaws and the pin jaws for small stuff. The 50mm ones have managed large bowls (14'' dia) on expansion mode with no hastle but I find them not so good in contracting mode. I want to have a go at hollow form. On endgrain work expansion mode may split the base so looking for something with real grip. So bowl jaws, step jaws or jumbo? what would be the best? I would like all 3 but $s dont grow on trees in my neck of the woods. Be intrested to hear of experiences with any of the above.
Regards
John

issatree
6th July 2009, 03:05 PM
Hi orraloon,
You could go to www.cws.au which is Jim Carroll & Irene's site. Should be something there to show you, or better still, send them an Email, & ask for some information, & pricing, as well to send. I know they have a great mailing service.
Regards,
issatree.

NeilS
6th July 2009, 03:29 PM
I suggest the Powergrip 100mm jaws as your next addition. They will serve as both bowl and shark grip jaws. Also provide good reach into bowls if you do any re-turning of rough turned bowls.

Neil

Gil Jones
6th July 2009, 03:47 PM
I also have the Powergrip jaws on a SN2, and the do a fine job.

Calm
6th July 2009, 06:07 PM
The jaws i use the most are

45 mm (http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Spigot.htm) for bowls both in external and internal mode also for holding blanks for spindle work ie S&P grinders

100 mm (http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/100mm.htm) for bowls larger than what i reckon the 45 mm ones will hold in bothe internal and external mode.

pin jaws (http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Pin.htm) for holding small things and S&P grinders in expasion mode after drilling.

So depending on what you do most that should help you decide which set will benefit you most.

Cheers

Skew ChiDAMN!!
6th July 2009, 06:44 PM
For big pieces: faceplate. :rolleyes:

Calm
6th July 2009, 07:04 PM
For big pieces: faceplate. :rolleyes:

What about when you shape the outside and remount to do the inside, or do you waste the depth of the screw holes.

Cheers

Skew ChiDAMN!!
6th July 2009, 07:13 PM
When pieces are big enough, if you finish the outside first and then reverse mount, the wood starts to "relax" as you hollow it out and you need to re-turn the outside anyway.

You should know this. :p

Also, screws don't have to go that far into the wood... not much more than you're already wasting by turning a mortise or spigot. Unless you're planning to "grip by the lip," but that's a "finishing" grip and asking for trouble if relied upon for heavy operations such as hollowing.

Thirdly, there's always sacrificial timber mounts. Even when turning end-grain, you can hollow out a mortise the same as for expansion chucking, turn a round plug to a snuggish fit & glue it in with a bead of hot-melt where the chuck would be gripping. That can be an even stronger mount than just using a chuck. :)

(Sorry. There's a 1,001 different mounting methods, it always gripes me when someone asks "what jaws should I use." :B)

rsser
6th July 2009, 07:52 PM
The Nova 75mm bowl jaws are a nice bit of kit - thick and heavy - but the face edges are rounded over and that means they're not as grippy as they could be. Though there are ways around this.

If the smaller Powergrips are made like the Titan version then I'd vote for them too - there's less rounding over of the face edges and you get more depth than with the bowl jaws for holding long pieces.

Step jaws can be a timesaver for a production turner but the depth of the steps limits your foot designs.

Ed Reiss
6th July 2009, 11:56 PM
...thinking of getting rid of all faceplates and chucks in favor of strapping the next door neighbor's pit bull to the spindle and have him hold the blanks :oo: :D

The step jaws can be OK for light to medium work.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
7th July 2009, 12:03 AM
...thinking of getting rid of all faceplates and chucks in favor of strapping the next door neighbor's pit bull to the spindle and have him hold the blanks :oo: :D

:think: That'd work!

But then the problem becomes "how do you get him to let go?" :U

jefferson
7th July 2009, 12:26 AM
When pieces are big enough, if you finish the outside first and then reverse mount, the wood starts to "relax" as you hollow it out and you need to re-turn the outside anyway.

You should know this. :p

Also, screws don't have to go that far into the wood... not much more than you're already wasting by turning a mortise or spigot. Unless you're planning to "grip by the lip," but that's a "finishing" grip and asking for trouble if relied upon for heavy operations such as hollowing.

Thirdly, there's always sacrificial timber mounts. Even when turning end-grain, you can hollow out a mortise the same as for expansion chucking, turn a round plug to a snuggish fit & glue it in with a bead of hot-melt where the chuck would be gripping. That can be an even stronger mount than just using a chuck. :)

(Sorry. There's a 1,001 different mounting methods, it always gripes me when someone asks "what jaws should I use." :B)

I just love it when guys that I know are friends argue a little. Someone needs to put a long post up on holding procedures..... :D:D:D

I would if I could, but I'm still learning. (The base of Lidded box no 7 separated from the hot-melt "chuck" on Saturday. Not enough glue, as I found out too late.)

Yep, chucking is one topic for the next Vic Chapter meet. Looking forward to it.

And Skew, please change your Call Sign to Handy Andy. Or Very Handy Andy. 6 hours of solid turning from you without a catch.... Sure says something. Plus your work on the Jumper Box (where's the photos Calm?)

Jeff

orraloon
8th July 2009, 11:30 AM
Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards the powergrips as my next jaws. I dont see them in the carbatec cattledog however. Will have to sniff around.
Regards
John

rodent
11th July 2009, 01:56 AM
Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards the powergrips as my next jaws. I dont see them in the carbatec cattledog however. Will have to sniff around.
Regards
John

www.cws.au.com (http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_product_details?category_id=1107144839&product_id=1107452391) Ring Jim iv'e never had to wait more than a two days for his swift return postage .