Conduit

[MBUMIK]

all the bits for a casting either here or on the way, just need to make a mould\\

i have read somewhere about using conduit for a mould and i can't find/remember what was said about it

does it work
do you need to use a release agent / what is used

i plan to stand it up in a pressure tank but no vacuum at the moment

i look forward to any help/advice you all maybe able to provide

thanks
MIK

[dj_pnevans]

I have tried this with no luck. But if you use the black pipe that you use for the garden sprinkler that will work. After it set use a bit of rod to push it out.What are you doing?
David

[Big Shed]

Haven't used conduit or black pipe, but have successfulyy made moulds from polythene cutting boards, either single blanks or 4 blank size.

The 4 blank size is cast as one block and then cut up on the bandsaw. Particularly good for swirls etc.

I also have 2 silcone rubber moulds (purchased from US) that cast 4 individual blanks, not cheap but excellent.

Boomeranginfo has a thread somewhere where he shows how to do that yourself. I looked at the economics and decided it was easier and cheaper to buy them.

[dj_pnevans]

Fred it is more fun making your own, I have made 4 now one that is a block of about 4, 4 single ones, one that holds 2 tubes for label casting and a bottle top.
David

[MBUMIK]

thanks guys

the main reason i was thinking of conduit would be less waste due to it starting out round

not sure what to try to start with, i have some pearlex sets 1 & 2 coming as well as some powdered paint, both of these i believe can be used to color the resin, unfortunately they never arrived today so it will be next week before i can play

what sort of mixing container would you suggest??

thanks
MIK

[dj_pnevans]

MIK have a look at this site http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/Making_a_Silicone_Mold.pdf
I use plastic cups or any thing that will hold the resin. If you turn some resin to a U shape (ie off centre) you can poor silicon around this to make a mold. If you want to talk or need any help PM me for my number.
David

[Big Shed]

Fred it is more fun making your own, I have made 4 now one that is a block of about 4, 4 single ones, one that holds 2 tubes for label casting and a bottle top.
David

I agree David, and I have made quite a few out of cutting boards, but when I looked at the price that silicone rubber (the 2 part mould making stuff) sells for at Barnes it actually worked out more expensive. I have made several of the cutting board ones for casting "worthless wood" blanks. A $4 cutting board makes 3 or 4 moulds, and the cured blank releases very easily from these. Just remember to remove the mould from the blank before you post cure it in the toaster oven!

[Big Shed]

MIK have a look at this site http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/Making_a_Silicone_Mold.pdf
I use plastic cups or any thing that will hold the resin. If you turn some resin to a U shape (ie off centre) you can poor silicon around this to make a mold. If you want to talk or need any help PM me for my number.
David

Serge lives in Melbourne, nice chap, we have met a few times:2tsup:

[dj_pnevans]

Just remember to remove the mould from the blank before you post cure it in the toaster oven!
Did you see that on IAP. I have got silicon from Barnes before but get it cheaper now, I like the idea of the cutting boards if I had known about them before I would have given them a go. You could use them for casting with the tube by using a slide in one end to adjust for different size tube.
David

.

[MBUMIK]

thanks again, i will be able to have a play at making a few different types of moulds over the weekend

the post cure thing, do you have to cook them for a while or will they cure by themselves over a week or so??? what temp and how long??

[dj_pnevans]

I made a light box with a 70w globe and it works fine for me leave for 24hours drill glue turn sand then post.
David

[Big Shed]

Did you see that on IAP. I have got silicon from Barnes before but get it cheaper now, I like the idea of the cutting boards if I had known about them before I would have given them a go. You could use them for casting with the tube by using a slide in one end to adjust for different size tube.
David

.

Yes, that gave me the idea, I make them slightly different though. So where do you get your silcone rubber now and is it much cheaper than Barnes?

The other thing the 4 blank block moulds are great for is the embedded strips type moulds.

[Big Shed]

the post cure thing, do you have to cook them for a while or will they cure by themselves over a week or so??? what temp and how long??

No, you don't have to cook them, they will cure reasonably well in 24 hours, but they usually have a certain surface tack.

I have one of those little toaster ones in the shed from one of the cheap shops (Warehouse I think - $20), after about 3-4 hours (or overnight, whenever I do the cast) I take them out of the pressure pot and out of the mould and in the toaster oven they go, 30min at 120C and they are ready to serve:D

[dj_pnevans]

The other thing the 4 blank block moulds are great for is the embedded strips type moulds.
Do you mean ribbon casting?
There is a place hear in Perth that sells it but if you do a search on the net you will find some place cheaper I will ask where I get mine from if they have a shop near you.
David

[Big Shed]

Do you mean ribbon casting?
There is a place hear in Perth that sells it but if you do a search on the net you will find some place cheaper I will ask where I get mine from if they have a shop near you.
David

So, how much do you pay there?

Yes, ribbon casting is the term I was searching for, this sort of thing

[dj_pnevans]

For that I got 1kg of silicon and 1ltr of resin I think for $60 -$70. (With hardner for both)
With your ribbon casting do you sand the ribbon before you cast it as the last one I did i didnt sand it and well if fell apart. You can try this site http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalogue/
David

[Big Shed]

For that I got 1kg of silicon and 1ltr of resin I think for $60 -$70. (With hardner for both)
With your ribbon casting do you sand the ribbon before you cast it as the last one I did i didnt sand it and well if fell apart. You can try this site http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalogue/
David

Thanks, they are a Barnes reseller and dearer than Barnes! (oh, and Adelaide is 700k from Bendigo! - used to live there)

Adhesion is a definite problem with ribbon casting, dropped a ribbon cast blank today and it broke at the ribbon interface in about 3 or 4 places!

Still trying to perfect that technique, I think undercuring is the answer, but they become a pig to handle!

[dj_pnevans]

The one I was doing had real good color to, but I will keep on doing it.
David

[Resination]

If you are using PR, PVC works great. No release needed, they slide right out. No need for this post curing thing everyone thinks does something. Once it's cured, it's cured. The only part that remains tacky is the exposed surface and it gets turned off anyway. Mine aren't tacky after cured.
Have fun.:2tsup:

[Simomatra]

I have had no problems using 20mm electrical conduit. If they don't just fall out when cured tap on a piece of timber or use compressed air. Great moulds

111031111032

[Big Shed]

Mornin' Sam, good to see you back, place hasn't been the same without you:2tsup:

All settled in the new place now?

Must try that conduit, looks good for some of the simpler blanks, I suppose the orange exterior grade would work as well?

Come to think of it, I have used some of the 50mm exterior conduit to make PR blanks for some knobs for jigs etc.

[MBUMIK]

conduit works then, got me some, 20mm & 25mm

do you pour all the way to the top or do you leave and inch or so for expansion

is just presuure OK or do you really need to vacuum as well

i like the rack you have the tubes standing in Sam, are the holes just a tight fit to the tube or do you put bungs in the bottoms of the tubes as well

thanks for all the advice/help

[dj_pnevans]

Put a bit of plastic wrap on the bottom or it will be hard to pull away from the timber. If you give it a bit of a bang on the bench to this will help the air out.
David

[Simomatra]

Put a bit of plastic wrap on the bottom or it will be hard to pull away from the timber. If you give it a bit of a bang on the bench to this will help the air out.
David

That's the way to go I don't even use the pressure pot or vacuum. After the first poor all the space is filled up and no more leaking. if you place on a bench and then run the orbital sander beside it it will vibrate all the bubbles out.

Thanks Fred, not in yet the first place failed building inspection, not good for a new construction. Signed a contract for another last week and expect it will take another 6 weeks to settle. Iwill have worn out the BIL by then.

Still on limited internet till we get settled have purchased a laptop to keep me in the loop

[MBUMIK]

thanks for all the answers, just waiting for the colorings to turn up hopefully tomorrow and i will be off and running

when do multi color pours i was thinking that you should just pour all the colors into the tubes at once, would this be right or is this a trade secret

i can't seem to find much at all on different ways to get results

[dj_pnevans]

when do multi color pours i was thinking that you should just pour all the colors into the tubes at once, would this be right or is this a trade secret

i can't seem to find much at all on different ways to get results
No trade secret we are all hear to help. I would use a boxed mold to do multi color. You can poor them together, but I find if you poor one color first then poor the next and get a stick and stir gently if you stir to much the colors with mix in together and end up with a mess. If you get on youtube you will find videos on how to do it. But in saying this if you use a tube you can do the same but us a longer stick. I find doing this is a good way to spend in the shed I don’t buy my blanks any more.
David

[MBUMIK]

thanks dave, the trade secret crack was attempted humour

i am looking through youtube at the minute, watching grub32 go about his craft

i have ordered some powdered paint and some pearlex for colorings, looking forward to them arriving, they will probably get here tomorrow because i can't do anything until tuesday night

to much to play with and work just gets in the way :)

[dj_pnevans]

With the powdered paint dont use to much as it my not set. Pearlex is the stuff to use but I still use powdered paint. I use a paddle pop stick and put a small amount on it mix it and then put some on the stick if I can see the stick under then mix then I put more power in it. This save's seeing the tube later. Where are you getting your pearlex from?
David

[MBUMIK]

i got some on ebay cheaper than i found it anywhere else, series 1 and series 2 sets for $60 delivered, thats total not each set, see how it goes and then fill up on individual colors from there on

there is also someone selling mica powder pretty cheap as well on ebay, just waiting to see how i like the casting bit, no use jumping in boots and all to find out i don't like it

is there somewhere to buy pearlex at a good price???

[dj_pnevans]

Same place as you.:U
David

[MBUMIK]

have you used mica powders???

[dj_pnevans]

No.
David

[NewLondon88]

I'm not sure about international shipping (but you can ask) but I've been getting
mica powders from coastalscents.com and they look great. They're very fine, mix in
with resin easily and there's tons of colors.

As for mixing colors, I do a couple of things that help me. After mixing the resins I put
the main color into a cheap plastic pitcher (2 for $1) and then take my second color
and drizzle it over the main color. Then I pour. This pulls out both colors at once, and
the motion of the pour tends to swirl the colors. If I use three colors, I'll drizzle one and
then stir gently with a stick before drizzling the third color on top. Then pour.
You can also try rotating the pitcher as you pour .. that makes the resin spread out
in different directions.

I've also been able to make 'split color' blanks using three containers. I pick up the
'take-out' containers from the grocery store.. the ones they might sell potato salad in.
I get a sleeve of containers for about $.05 ea. Use once, then throw them away unless
you're making the same colors again.

I find that if I make two colors, each in separate containers, and then pour both of them
into the third container at equal speed, I will get a clean division in the container . .one
color on each side and they don't mix. I can then pour this into the mold, and if you do
it carefully it will stay divided in the mold. Then you can use a popsicle stick to move
the resin around and mix the colors.

If I'm pouring into a single blank mold, the stick is almost as wide as the mold cavity.
So I stand the stick up in the resin and turn 180 degrees to put a 'twist' in the resin.
Looks kinda cool! That's good for making something like a 'Molten Metal' blank where
each side is one color but you want a little bit of mix in the middle.

[dj_pnevans]

Damm you NL88 now I will have to try your way Thursady :U:U:U
David

[MBUMIK]

thanks NL88

i have been baned from the shed at the minute by the doc, eyes are playing up and i am not allowed to play with glue

nothing was said about resin and all the bits have just arrived so technically i wouldn't have to go in the shed, but SWMBO has put her foot down, i knew i shouldn't have told her what the doc said

it gives me more time for research into different things

thanks again for all the ideas

MIK

[NewLondon88]

thanks NL88

i have been baned from the shed at the minute by the doc, eyes are playing up and i am not allowed to play with glue

ouch! . .then I wouldn't mess with the resin for a while. Eyes are nothing to mess with.

Keep in mind, these are only things I've tried .. someone else may come in and say
"Hey dummy, that's the hard way! Here's how you REALLY do it" .. and then I'll
try that, too.

I've also tried making a second color and injecting that into the poured resin with a
small plunger (glue injector, turkey injector, baby cough medicine dispenser etc) but
those tend to cost more money than the resin. But it's fun.. :p

[MBUMIK]

mate i get called dummy all the time, married, says it all

just had an idea, probably get called dummy but still

i know air in the mould is the enemy but has anyone - yes someone would have - tried putting one color in the mould then another on top. place a straw into the mould and blow some bubles GENTLY, could give a strange mix, need a vacuum after though i would guess to get rid of any small bubbles created.

OK there it is go on hit me with it someone will

MIK

[NewLondon88]

hmm... it's an interesting idea.

If the resin is warm, it's thin enough for the air bubbles to clear, so that shouldn't
be a problem .. and if you get the air down to the bottom, the rising bubbles should push
the bottom color up toward the top as the bubbles rise..

.. could be a nice effect!

[MBUMIK]

back to being a kid drinking a milkshake

but that was the effect i was thinking of

even pouring on multiple layers should bring the lower colrs up into the upper colors

1 week until i am allowed to give it a burl and probably an extra week before i get the basics down pat to even try something like this

don't you hate that

[MBUMIK]

well its nice outside, slight breeze, dam i just had to get it a go

they are sitting in the sun curing at the moment

had a bit of a prob woking out the MEKP but i think i got it right, 125mils of resin - 2.5mils MEKP

i guess i will find out soon enough

how long should it take to cure??

MIK

[Big Shed]

well its nice outside, slight breeze, dam i just had to get it a go

they are sitting in the sun curing at the moment

had a bit of a prob woking out the MEKP but i think i got it right, 125mils of resin - 2.5mils MEKP

i guess i will find out soon enough

how long should it take to cure??

MIK

That's a 2% vol/vol catalyst addition, which is twice as much as I normally use, so should be quite quick. A few hours at most and they could come out of the mould.

I do all my measuring by weight, cheap set of digital scales, except for the MEKP. For that I use the little 3ml plastic pipettes, 200 gr resin, 2ml MEKP.

[MBUMIK]

11.00am start time
2.30pm still a bit tacky on the top
3.25pm got the first out of the mould - still a bit on the tacky side
6.00pm got the rest out of the mould - just a bit sticky, picks up the dust of the bench, best to leave over night i am guessing

be in teresting to see if the extra MEKP makes them more brittle than yours Big Shed

did pink/purple combination

one of the moulds was leaking at the bottom so i poured it into another tube which mixed the colors, well thats what it looks like from the outside, might keep that one to break up into a number of pieces

all in all it was rather good except for the waiting part

just thought i would give you all a run down on how it went,if i can steel the daughters camera after i will post a pickie of the results

MIK

[MBUMIK]

here they are, all the females in my house like pink and purple, and the males are out voted by miles, so to keep them happy pink/purple was the answer

[NewLondon88]

Aaaahh.. looks good!

Tacky is normal, and it helps another layer bond to the previous one if you need to do
that. If you want to get rid of the tacky, you can pop them in a toaster oven on warm
for an hour or so. That will get rid of the tacky surface.

Don't let that voting thing get out of hand.. :p Nice job :2tsup:

[MBUMIK]

thanks, off to the opp shop tomorrow to find a second hand toaster oven

i am not worried about the tacky though as it would be very rare that i would turn it the same day that i made it, i am sure it will loose the tackyness with time

mate there are 3 females and 2 males in my house so the son and i are way way way out voted, BUT THE SHED IS MINE :)

[dj_pnevans]

Looking good I get the sticky side's most of the time all I do is take them out of the mould and leave them in the light box's all good.
David

[Big Shed]

Interesting looking blanks, so where are the pens then:D

Sticky gets cured easily with the little toaster oven, if none in the op shop (and most are getting wary of selling electrical items, what with "tagging laws" and all) go to GoLO or the The Warehouse, they don't cost much.

[MBUMIK]

i doubt i will find any at the opp shops, probably save time and just have a look at the warehouse

i can't wait to turn these suckers, but i am not alowed to, until next weekend.

might have to do another cast after work 2morrow, the youngest daughter wants greens now, you just can't please them all:doh::~

[MBUMIK]

i have made 4 of these blanks into pens and sold 2 already

they look like lolly pops when turned, will have to make some more of these thats for sure

unfortunately the camera doesn't work real good and i can't get a good photo will try tomorrow in the day light