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Broda
26th July 2009, 01:00 PM
hey everyone,

I have a problem-
my chuck wont come off the lathe:((

I'v tried everything...
in the end i had to get my dad to hold the spanner while I hit the s@$^ out of it with a mallet.

how can i stop this from happening again?

Kev Y.
26th July 2009, 01:08 PM
Go to the hardware store and get some graphite grease, or I think the trade name is "neverseeze".

Put a little on the threaded section.

IF the lathe has a reverse function to it, I would be careful about how much you put on.

RETIRED
26th July 2009, 01:11 PM
Make sure that you have the chuck tightened on the spindle before you start the lathe.

I have never used leather or any other sort of washers behind them . Never had one stuck yet.

I have had an aluminium face plate get stuck because it "grew" on to the steel shaft because of moisture. Had to cut it off.:D

Edwards
26th July 2009, 01:25 PM
hey everyone,

I have a problem-
my chuck wont come off the lathe:((

I'v tried everything...
in the end i had to get my dad to hold the spanner while I hit the s@$^ out of it with a mallet.

how can i stop this from happening again?

Broda.
When fitting a chuck to your lathe spindle, do not over tighten or lock it onto the shoulder section. Because of the normal running direction of the lathe and the force against this direction during normal cutting, the chuck will not come off.
If you have a reversing switch on your lathe and do not have a means for direct locking any of the accessory chucks to the spindle thread, this applies to the woodscrew thread as well, then never use it as a right hand thread wil easily undo.
One of Victoria's leading woodturners had an early and exciting experience with reversing switches.
If you place a thin nylon washer between the chuck and spindle shoulder it should make for easy removal but over tightening is probably your main cause. Also make sure the shoulder face on the spindle and chuck are smooth and burr free.
Hope this offers some thoughts against future problems.
Keep up the learning.

Cheers
Edwards:)

ElizaLeahy
26th July 2009, 01:32 PM
This happens to me every single time. Either that, or I'm not strong enough!

I have two levers, I put one in the chuck (the hole there for it, that lever came with the chuck) and the other in the hole on the lathe (I don't know what that's for, probably for getting stuck chucks off!)

Then I lever them apart. I always squish my thumb. I take hold of both levers, say "this is going to hurt!" and then do it.

I always thought there must have been a better way, but didn't like to ask. Glad you did!

:U

wheelinround
26th July 2009, 01:36 PM
undo the grub screw before removing the chuck from the adaptor nut

then undo the nut off the shaft

I have a G3 which was doing the same thing since changing the adaptor nut for a new one which doesn't have runout and sits flat against the collar :2tsup::2tsup:
I was using a fine leather shim which also stopped it.

Jim Carroll
26th July 2009, 01:45 PM
The easiest way to get stuck chuck of is brute force and ignorance and be smart.

Get a peice of steel bar and put in in the jaws of the chuck and close the jaws onto the peice, sideways of coarse with a long enough end that you can hit with a hammer.

Make sure the spindle lock is locked or the spanner you use to stop the spindle from turning is in a solid position not to move.

Close your eyes and hit , No sorry better keep the eyes open for this bit.:oo:

Once everything is secure hit the overhanging peice hard you are trying to shock the seized part so tapping gently wont help., it may take 2 goes if that does not work then you are in serious trouble.:(

tea lady
26th July 2009, 01:59 PM
Broda.
When fitting a chuck to your lathe spindle, do not over tighten or lock it onto the shoulder section.
Cheers
Edwards:):? Not sure about this. Prolly more important to make sure the chuck is tight on, cso if its a little loose when you turn on the lathe it will "snap" on and be very stuck. If you do the chuck up as tight as you can with a spanner and everything it can't move any tighter and so can be gotten off with the same spanner.

Broda
26th July 2009, 02:41 PM
thanks for fast responses everyone. thats what I love about these forums:)

I might try the washer and the graphite dust to see if that stops it. If not Jim's way sounds good:D

Sawdust Maker
26th July 2009, 03:35 PM
Jim's way works - 'cept I use a bit of hardwood, actually a piece of fence picket about 14 - 15 " long

hughie
26th July 2009, 08:52 PM
if its a little loose when you turn on the lathe it will "snap" on and be very stuck. If you do the chuck up as tight as you can with a spanner and everything it can't move any tighter and so can be gotten off with the same spanner.
[/QUOTE]

Do it up by all means, but do not "snap" it tight nor be overly concerned about "doing it as tight as you can" Both these methods will guarantee problems at removal time.

If you have to get it real tight then give yourself some method of removal, ie a plastic washer or some such.

Personally I never bang/snap or what ever, my chucks. They are done up by hand and removed by hand. I have yet to have problem, OK with reverse sanding you may have to have it tighter.
All I do is roll the chuck on gently till it stops and make sure it up against the shoulder with a gentle bump, nothing to drastic.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
26th July 2009, 09:01 PM
I'll third Jim's method. Been using it for years.

Sometimes the insert'll stick and the chuck unscrews off it, but that's OK... it makes it easy to get a shifter onto the insert when the chuck's not in the way. :)

issatree
26th July 2009, 09:22 PM
Hi Brody,
Luckily I have never had that Problem. I take it that the Faces of both the Lathe & the Chuck are clean. Run the Lathe, & use steel wool, should do the trick on the Lathe face.
I have a wire wheel on my Grinder for the inner face of the Chucks.
I have always used the method of putting my 1/2in. x 14in. - 360mm. knockout bar across the Jaws to loosen my Chuck.
If you use those little bars in those little holes, to take the chuck off, Jim & Irene @cws, will love you forever.
Find 2 good Screwdrivers, cut the ends off, & sq. them on the Grinder.
They work a treat, maybe drill extra holes if need be.
I'm taking a punt you have an older Nova ??? as I have 3, Can't fault them.
Of course we do not know what Chuck you have, or the Lathe for that matter.
Yes. a bit of Lube of some kind may do the trick, but I use Graphite Powder $7 - 8.
Well that's my bit.
Regards,
issatree.

joe greiner
26th July 2009, 10:54 PM
Allowing it to "snap" has the same effect as using an impact wrench for tightening. A catch can do the same.

I now keep a plastic washer on the spindle, regardless of whether I'm using a chuck or a spur drive. All it takes is a flat cutout from a milk or juice bottle. Too thin to worry about flatness affecting alignment.

Cheers,
Joe

rodent
27th July 2009, 02:03 AM
As for a washer try an empty milk bottle ( plastic of corse ) cut it out to suit your threaded shaft . nice and cheep .

Broda
27th July 2009, 04:33 PM
thanks again everyone,

the plastic bottle washer sounds like a good idea.

issatree- I wish a had a nova (ahhemmm...*cough*MC900 *cough*
the chuck I'm using is a nova though

Ed Reiss
27th July 2009, 10:08 PM
...a fourth on Jim's method :2tsup:

NeilS
28th July 2009, 08:27 PM
Jim's way works - 'cept I use a bit of hardwood, actually a piece of fence picket about 14 - 15 " long

Ditto

Neil

Edwards
30th July 2009, 01:16 PM
Do it up by all means, but do not "snap" it tight nor be overly concerned about "doing it as tight as you can" Both these methods will guarantee problems at removal time.

If you have to get it real tight then give yourself some method of removal, ie a plastic washer or some such.

Personally I never bang/snap or what ever, my chucks. They are done up by hand and removed by hand. I have yet to have problem, OK with reverse sanding you may have to have it tighter.
All I do is roll the chuck on gently till it stops and make sure it up against the shoulder with a gentle bump, nothing to drastic.[/QUOTE]

Hughie.
your comments are absolutely correct. Hand tighten only is required.
Foget the levers and crash banging to remove chucks etc. Probably fix the problem part with your chuck or lathe spindle thread.

Cheers
Edwards:)

Skew ChiDAMN!!
30th July 2009, 03:28 PM
Hand tighten only is required.
Foget the levers and crash banging to remove chucks etc. Probably fix the problem part with your chuck or lathe spindle thread.

Even when only hand tightened, all it takes is a couple of nasty catches on a large dia. bowl and you may end up needing mechanical assistance to get the bloody thing off again. :C

RETIRED
30th July 2009, 03:31 PM
Even when only hand tightened, all it takes is a couple of nasty catches on a large dia. bowl and you may end up needing mechanical assistance to get the bloody thing off again. :CWhich is why I tighten the chucks firmly. I don't get many catches but I load the chucks up with the cuts I take. If it is tight it caint go no further.

Cliff Rogers
30th July 2009, 04:36 PM
A rubber mallet is a handy tool around a lathe. :2tsup:

joe greiner
30th July 2009, 09:34 PM
A rubber mallet is a handy tool around a lathe. :2tsup:
... especially for spur centre.

Cheers,
Joe

Sawdust Maker
30th July 2009, 10:26 PM
... especially for spur centre.

Cheers,
Joe

Or for onlookers :o

Cliff Rogers
30th July 2009, 10:59 PM
And cam locks. :2tsup:

Tim the Timber Turner
31st July 2009, 01:57 PM
Which is why I tighten the chucks firmly. I don't get many catches but I load the chucks up with the cuts I take. If it is tight it caint go no further.

I agree with . Tight chucks are the way to go.

I bump the chuck up tight using the T bar handle and the palm of my hand.

I remove them the same way, a bump with the palm against the handle.

Yes, I know, there will be some who disagree with using the handle as a lever but I have been doing it for many years without any trouble with my chucks. Vicmarc's of course.

To remove a locked on chuck, lock the spindle againt bed with a large spanner.
Insert a long lever into (1 meter or more) the jaws of the chuck and lock into place.
Place the end of a second steel bar against the chuck insert and while pushing down on the first lever give the end of the second bar a good solid wack with a 4lb hammer.
This will shock load the jammed chuck near the thread, while the first lever will put pressure on the thread to undo.

This is last resort solution and requires 2 people.

Don't try this using the index pin as the shock loading could shear the pin.

Forget about using washers, they are not required, just make sure the mating surfaces are clean.

Also another observation. the M30 thread seems to cause a lot less problem with locking up than the early 1"10tpi.
Don't know why, just seems to be better.

Cheers:)
Tim

Cliff Rogers
31st July 2009, 02:01 PM
... and the palm of my hand.

...a bump with the palm against the handle....
That is what the rubber mallet is for, saves bruised hands. :2tsup:

Tim the Timber Turner
31st July 2009, 02:09 PM
That is what the rubber mallet is for, saves bruised hands. :2tsup:

You don't need to hit it that hard.:no:

Cliff Rogers
31st July 2009, 02:12 PM
JUST because it is a mallet, doesn't mean you have to HIT it.

You can bump it with the mallet, it saves your hands.

hughie
31st July 2009, 02:41 PM
J
UST because it is a mallet, doesn't mean you have to HIT it.
You can bump it with the mallet, it saves your hands.


Yep!