Canary Wood Box Pt 1 (with floating lid...hopefully !!!)

[Ed Reiss]

Am starting the box with 5/4 kiln dried Canary Wood...good lookin' stuff laminated 2 pieces of canary with a slice of cocobolo in between.
Knocked off the corners of the blank at the tablesaw...wind up with an octogon (easier to rough out)
Attached waste rounds to each end with hi-strenght epoxy since the attachment is on end grain.
Rounded the block using a 1/2" spindle guage...the canary cuts nicely.
The next 2 pics show how I'm starting to develop the shape.
Note: the partial parting cut...not ready to cut fully thru yet.
Note: as your cutting the round over on the right, start with the tool flat, bevel rubbing....as you progress to the right, start rotating the gouge over so that it is completley vertical once it reaches the waste block....always keep that bevel rubbing, or your likely to wind up with a neat spiral pattern dug into the lid.

Pt 2 coming soon

[Tony Morton]

Hi Ed

Set up looks too clinical where is the dust I do see some shavings is this real.

Cheers Tony

[Ed Reiss]

Hi Ed

Set up looks too clinical where is the dust I do see some shavings is this real.

Cheers Tony


:pi: You are right. He must have vacuumed. Definite code violation. :fineprint:

:rolleyes: Only joking. those pics could be in a book. :U

me thinks the "clean up fairy" got there before me...it sure as hell wouln't look like that if I had gotten there first.:doh::D:D

[Ed Reiss]

Now ready to part off. Using a thin kerf parting tool, cut into the blank leaving about 20mm in the center. Finish the cut with the POWER OFF using a back saw.

Mark an initial wall thickness of about 5 to 6mm, this will be thinned out later.

Using a drill chuck in the tailstock, set up the largest forstner bit that you have, I used a 2 1/8” (56mm), and place a bit of tape around the shank to mark the depth. Set the lathe speed to the LOWEST speed possible. Drilling into end grain with a large bit into dense wood is slow going – take your time and expect to back out the bit very often to clear shavings. OK, now that the hole has been drilled, set up to shape the rest of the opening with, say an Oland type tool. I use my Elbo tool for smaller stuff…ideal for this size box.

My next step is going to be at the drill press…why?

It will be revealed in Pt. 3

[ElizaLeahy]

Ohhh, can't wait until the next chapter!!!!

(eats more popcorn)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

My next step is going to be at the drill press…why?

So you can justify the purchase of the Drill Press to The Holder of the Purse Strings?

:U:

[Ed Reiss]

So you can justify the purchase of the Drill Press to The Holder of the Purse Strings?

:U:

:D ...that's always a battle

[Ozkaban]

My next step is going to be at the drill press…why?

'cos you got the forstner boit stuck in the bottom of the box?? :whistling2:

Nice work so far. Can't wait for the rest!

Cheers,
Dave

[Ozkaban]

...always keep that bevel rubbing, or your likely to wind up with a neat spiral pattern dug into the lid.

How well do I know that trick :doh:

Actually managed to do a couple on the weekend without a catch... Getting there!

Cheers,
Dave

[Ed Reiss]

it's not a bad thing if you do it on purpose...you do, don't you?:roll:

[wheelinround]

nice looking set up Ed did the rules stipulate that hand tools were to be used :q

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

it's not a bad thing if you do it on purpose...you do, don't you?:roll:

Do you mean get the forstner bit stuck or the unplanned texturing? :U

[Ed Reiss]

Do you mean get the forstner bit stuck or the unplanned texturing? :U

...makes life interesting when you get a bit of both:;

[Rum Pig]

Looks good so far:2tsup:

[Ed Reiss]

nice looking set up Ed did the rules stipulate that hand tools were to be used :q

...just "Elbo's", no hand's, Ray :q:q

[Ed Reiss]

OK...so on with Pt 3 were moving over to the drill press where two 3mm holes will be bored in the rim at opposing positions. These holes will hold one each 3.2mm diameter x 1.6mm thick rare earth magnets (magcraft.com). Using a try square to position the rim for the drill op.

With the base rim holes drilled for the magnets, I turn attention to the top and drill two holes there to match the bottom ones.Once that is done, it's time to even out the top and bottom...to do this I place the chucks facing each other...the tailstock chuck is on a Oneway live center equipped with an arbor adapter (1 1/4 x 8tpi). Using a 1/2 inch spindle gouge the lines are further refined

Once the outside shape is achieved, the two pieces are seperated and I work on doming the top inside - hollowed, sanded to 400, EEE, and Shellawax.

Now to work on the base's bottom...first strech a section of bicycle tire inner tube across the standard jaws...this will prevent scratches to the inside of the box.

Mount the box base over the jaws and expand them...do not get too aggresive or you just might crack the box, go tight but not too tight. Finish the bottom.

Well, it's gettin' late so will continue with Pt 4 tomorrow

[kdm]

That explains the drill press then!

I can't wait to find out if this works.

[Ed Reiss]

OK...the bottom is finished.

Using 100mm jaws, reverse chuck the top in order to finish. note: place some tape around the circumference of the area by the rim to protect the wood from the jaws...I used a wide rubber band. Next pic is the top turned and finish applied.

The next two pics are drilling the 5mm mortise (I used a 1/4" forstner bit) to receive the finial's tenon, and the finial glued in (ca glue) ready for turning. A piece of cocobolo was used for the finial.

OK...the finial has been turned and finish applied.

Next the rare earth magnets are pushed into the holes previously drilled in the rim of both the top and bottom...friction fit / no glue.
It is the magnets that make this a "floating lid" (thanks Skew for challenging me to make a floating lid :D )

I had one problem with drilling the small holes into the cocobolo endgrain...the drill bit tended to wander consequently the verticle line-up of the top to the base is off by about 1mm. For future constructs using the magnets to secure the top, will have to figure out some way to drill into long grain instead.

Dimensions: 90mm x 90mm with the finial height...150mm
All parts sanded to 400, EEE, then Shellawax.

My initial design idea was to make a box that resembled a bell with an "old timey" looking handle...so, finally, the Bell Box

[Tex B]

Lovely box, Ed, and great thread. :2tsup:

Thanks for sharing.

Tex

[tea lady]

So, a ring bell? :cool: I like how the magnets are in the stripe, so it lines up when the lid is put on.:2tsup: Belly nice.:D

[kdm]

Nicely done Ed. I like the way the grain flows with the bell shape :2tsup:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

9/10. :2tsup:

(1 point deducted 'cos the finial is too thick. :p:rolleyes::D)

[mick61]

:2tsup:G`day Ed I really like your box(Bell) and the magnet idea:2tsup:
Mick:D

[ElizaLeahy]

9/10. :2tsup:

(1 point deducted 'cos the finial is too thick. :p:rolleyes::D)

No it's not - it's suppose to look like a bell handle!

[Ad de Crom]

Ed, I followed very silent your ''tutorial'', and I enjoyed it.
Never before I saw someone using magnets for a floating lid.
Neat idea.
Well, your bell box came out very well.
Ad :2tsup:

[Sawdust Maker]

Ed
superb box :2tsup:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I keep coming back here for one more peek. Guess I'll have to steal the magnet idea now, Ed... just to stop the ol' subconscious nagging at me.

(I think it's jealous. :U)


No it's not - it's suppose to look like a bell handle!

Whoosh? :;

[Ozkaban]

Nice WIP and the results are stunning :2tsup:

As the chapes of the lid and box are so different, you would want to take a lot of care drilling the holes for the magnets - it wouldn't need to be out by too much for it all to not line up... Well done, looks sensational!

Cheers,
Dave

[Ed Reiss]

Tnx for the positive comments, guys...it was a lot of fun taking up TL's challenge and a pleasure to do a WIP that might be helpful to some.:U

[Ed Reiss]

I keep coming back here for one more peek. Guess I'll have to steal the magnet idea now, Ed... just to stop the ol' subconscious nagging at me.

(I think it's jealous. :U)



Whoosh? :;

Oh sure, blame the ol' subconscious :q :D

the magnet idea ain't copyrighted...steal away :U

[Ed Reiss]

Nice WIP and the results are stunning :2tsup:

As the chapes of the lid and box are so different, you would want to take a lot of care drilling the holes for the magnets - it wouldn't need to be out by too much for it all to not line up... Well done, looks sensational!

Cheers,
Dave

Dave, took that into consideration when turning the rim area of the lid and base...made sure that they were parallel to each other, not concave. Then, if you notice in the drill press set-up, I used the V of the try square to set the circular base of the chuck against it in order to get the same orientation for both sides. For the other half it was just a matter of re-setting the try square for the other chucks base. (hope this makes sense :doh: )

The problem I ran into was that the small diameter drill bit wanted to skate on the endgrain of the dense cocobolo...might not have done it on a softer wood, so live and learn (and man, do I still have a lot to learn !!!!)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I wonder how an old dowelling jig would go for keeping the drill bit positioned? Assuming one can be found of suitable size, of course. :think:

[Happy amateur]

This might help.
Mark the point on the lid where the holes will be drilled for the magnets.
Drive a small pin/nail into the centre. cut short and file point on the pin/nail.
line up the top with the base and press together which should give you marks for the holes on the base. Use a bradpoint bit which should prevent movement of the drill bit.

Hope this makes sense.

Fred

[Ed Reiss]

I wonder how an old dowelling jig would go for keeping the drill bit positioned? Assuming one can be found of suitable size, of course. :think:

hmmmm....nothing preventing from making a custom metal jig for that size hole.


This might help.
Mark the point on the lid where the holes will be drilled for the magnets.
Drive a small pin/nail into the centre. cut short and file point on the pin/nail.
line up the top with the base and press together which should give you marks for the holes on the base. Use a bradpoint bit which should prevent movement of the drill bit.

Hope this makes sense.

Fred

good idea on the pin/nail thing
I checked on a brad point that small...couldn't find one

[Sawdust Maker]

What about dowel centre markers?

and you can get brad point bits down do a couple of mm

what's the diameter of the magnets?

[Ed Reiss]

What about dowel centre markers?

the smallest dowel center markers I can get are 1/4" ...too large

and you can get brad point bits down do a couple of mm

where?

what's the diameter of the magnets?

3.2mm


.

[Sawdust Maker]

In you neck of the woods

Highland Woodworking
I searched under 'brad point' here (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=brad%20point&Page=1)

Woodcraft
here (http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005566/2005566.aspx)

I got mine from Carbatec here in Sydney

Thought the dowel centres may have been too large, oh well

happy hunting

[Ed Reiss]

Thanks Nick...guess I should have explained further. No brad point bits available locally (home depot, lowe's, town hardware, etc.):C:~

Did not want to order just one drill bit from Highland...the shipping would have been much more than the cost.:o

[Sawdust Maker]

Thanks Nick...guess I should have explained further. No brad point bits available locally (home depot, lowe's, town hardware, etc.):C:~

Did not want to order just one drill bit from Highland...the shipping would have been much more than the cost.:o

But this is for the challenge - so no expense should be spared :cool:

You'll be reported to Tea Lady for not going the extra yard :q

well actually ... fair enough, I wouldn't have either :)

[KenW]

Ed, What glue did you use to stick the Cocobolo?

[Ed Reiss]

Good question Ken. I use Titebond II (pva), and just prior to the glue-up, wiped down the cocobolo with acetone to remove any surface oil.

[KenW]

Good question Ken. I use Titebond II (pva), and just prior to the glue-up, wiped down the cocobolo with acetone to remove any surface oil.
Thanks Ed, I will remeber the acetone trick.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

That works with almost any oily woods, Ken.

You need to glue up ASAP though, before any residual oils return to the surface.

[tea lady]

:oo: We've told Ken something he didn't know.:cool::D

[KenW]

That works with almost any oily woods, Ken.

You need to glue up ASAP though, before any residual oils return to the surface.
Thanks Skew

[rodent]

9/10. :2tsup:

(1 point deducted 'cos the finial is too thick. :p:rolleyes::D)
Not as thick as some . ( sorry couldn't help it ) .:U
Acetone's an old pen makers trick ken especially when using Ca .