A beginners challenge

[kdm]

I've had a lathe since May and so far I've made one turned box out of a bit of a branch which fell off a banksia tree in the yard. I was expecting it to split (I couldn't hollow far enough in so the bottom was quite thick) and indeed it did!

What I'm aiming to do is to use the challenge as an opportunity to make some headway with turned boxes. So, I'm planning on spending about an hour each day in August making boxes and we'll see what happens!

I don't expect to make anything very exciting but I hope that posting about what I'm doing will be interesting for other beginners. I'll try and post every day after turning.

When I made my first box I had trouble hollowing (with a 3/8" spindle gouge) beyond about 25mm, I got to about 37mm in the end but it was getting too out of control so I stopped there. I decided to make an Oland tool for next time and I had Cliff's 5/8" drill bit for the handle so I got on and made that last weekend. Hopefully it will help - picture attached, the handle is 16" long to give an idea of scale.

Tell me to stop if this gets boring!!

[tea lady]

:2tsup:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The oland tool should be a big help in reducing chatter on those long reaches. :)

[kdm]

I have Richard Raffan's (I'll call him RR from now on to save typing!) Turning Boxes book from the library and this box is the one from the book to learn his suggested box making method. So, there's no creativity going on yet, just learning the technique today!

I have photos of each step if anyone is interested but I'll just post a few for now.

I decided to use my Gary Pye 'midi' tool set as far as possible and explain why if I use other tools. They are the first tools I bought and for $50 or so I reckon they are a goods starting point for small work.

112398

The blank is part of a piece of cedar I was given when I bought some other wood as it has some problems - ain't the only one! Hopefully I've dodged them cutting the blank which is 75mm square and 125mm long.

I roughed it out with the roughing gouge which felt kind of small with that blank but managed. I turned shoulders on each end to fit my chuck with the parting tool rather than the skew as suggested by RR - measured using vernier calapers.

Next I cut part way through with the parting tool to separate the top and bottom and finished the cut with a saw. I could have gone all the way through with the parting tool but would have had to make a wider cut.

112394

Next trued up the top with the skew. 1/2" skew cleaning up the surface of the blank feels kind of small, less room for error than a wider skew but does the job fine. Cleaned up the end fine too. Hollowing with the spindle gouge wasn't really on as the grind is not swept back enough - anyway, I had my Oland tool to try out which worked a treat!

112395

I needed a square scraper to tidy up the flange, there isn't one in the GPW set.

112396

The inside of the top is finished and the outside partly shaped. That's it for today!

112397

[kdm]

The oland tool should be a big help in reducing chatter on those long reaches. :)
It was one of your posts that out me on to the Oland tool :2tsup:

[ElizaLeahy]

Thanks for that - now I know what a square scraper is for!!!

:)

[Ed Reiss]

...so far, so good :2tsup:

[ElizaLeahy]

I just discovered I don't have a square scraper. damn

[kdm]

Eliza, do you know about using a caliper to get the lid flange straight? I've got a picture if not - I didn't mention it above (forgot).

[ElizaLeahy]

Eliza, do you know about using a caliper to get the lid flange straight? I've got a picture if not - I didn't mention it above (forgot).


Keith, that would require that I have a caliper. :)

I have lots of wood though...

[kdm]

It does require that :U. I got one from Trade Tools Direct.

I'll cover the caliper thingy with my next box.

[kdm]

I'll leave all the pictures at the bottom this time - it takes a surprising amount of effort to get the right pictures in the right place otherwise!

Chuck up the base of the box and with the parting tool roughly fit the lid flange - left oversize but close enough so that hollowing doesn't encroach on the rim. Hollow with the oland tool. This is not the way RR does it (his method is beyond my current skills) but is as described by Mike Darlow in his 'Fundamentals' book, and by Jefferson in one of his recent posts.

Inside sanded and finished.

Parting to depth and width - I measured the depth and width of hollow and added a bit to width for wall thickness. This marks the bottom of the box, when the box is finally parted off it will be below this cut.

Trim flange so that top fits tightly - I'll talk about this more when I get better at it. The fit was fine but the process was very slow!

Cut beads with skew and shape outside of box. Wave a spindle gouge a long way off the rest and get a catch!! I softened the landing of the lid with my foot and the catch didn't damage anything that mattered. Lesson learned - keep toolrest as close to work as possible. I should add I am not using the spindle gouge from the Gary Pye set here. It is too wide (5/8") for my liking - I used a 3/8" gouge.

Trim flange so top fits nicely - ended up a little too tight but never mind.

Part off bottom of box below the earlier parting cut that marked where the bottom was. There should be enough material left to make a jam chuck but there wasn't (for me at least) so I made a jam chuck with a fresh piece of wood. I made a mistake here whilst fitting the box to the chuck and ended up with a scorch mark inside the box. I'll live with that - I can't think of a way to rechuck to sand it out.

Finished off the bottom of the box and that's it.

I aim not to talk about tools much again but I think it is worth summarising what I learned by trying to restrict myself to the very cheap set I started with:

I have used that set to make pens and bowls and to do endless spindle work exercises. It will do most things but:
1/ A wide skew is much easier to use for truing up blanks and 'planing' the surface.
2/ A larger roughing gouge is nicer to use with blanks this size - and will do smaller blanks quite happliy too.
3/ The spindle gouge with the set is too wide - this is the biggest fault with the set as far as I'm concerned.
4/ Hollowing requires a heavy tool of some sort. An Oland tool is a good cheap solution if you have the capability to make one - at least for starters.
5/ A square scraper is necessary - and that is just the start of it with scrapers I think!

[Ed Reiss]

Nicely done Keith :2tsup:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The finial is a bit squat... :innocent:

Nicely done! :2tsup: How'd you find the oland tool to use?

[kdm]

Thanks Ed.

I agree Skew, the finial is, um, minimal, chunky, whatever. I have to admit I was kind of keen to produce something finished, especially after launching the lid off to space!

Expect a few more 'basic' boxes then I'll try and pretty them up a bit - still 29 days to go :wink:

The Oland tool works really well. Leaves a nice finish that doesn't seem to need scraping - with cedar at least.

[Tony Morton]

hi Kieth
I'm not into finnials I like a practical knob holder what ever to lift the lid off You've done a great job on it.
Cheers Tony

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:U The knob actually looks good on that box, nicely sized & suits the barrel shape.



The only problem I've found with olands is that it can be a PITA sharpening them. I like to remove the tip so I can lay it flat on a sharpening platform to control the grind which, with hard woods, means grub screw out, grub screw in. Grub screw out, grub screw in. :rolleyes:

I have one that uses a wing-nut setup, but it keeps catching on the tool-rest or the rim of the bowl or...

I wonder how a collet chuck on the end would go? :think:

[ElizaLeahy]

That's a nice little box, I don't think that there is anything wrong with basic - and it is very neat and tidy!!!

One thing that surprised me was the legth of the - don't know what it's called, the bit that goes up into the lid when it's closed? I've been making mine very short so that I don't have too much space to seperate the pattern of the grain.

[kdm]

Skew - I'm putting the Oland tool in my Tru-Grind jig and treating it as a swept back gouge. I was actually a little heavy handed last time I sharpened it so the shape is odd but it still works fine.

I mark my gouges with the Tru-Grind leg setting and the distance the slider needs to be out. This makes it pretty quick to set up the jig, subject to checking it with some ink on the bevel.

Eliza - yes, about 1/2". At this stage I'm doing (mainly) what RR says to do. Next few boxes are going to be concentrating on getting the join just right.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Never thought of that. :doh:

One day I'll set up my TruGrind... something I've been meaning to do ever since I received it some... 6 months(?) ago. :B

[kdm]

I gotta get round to filing a flat on top though for the clamp to sit square on so the alignment is always right. I'm eyeballing it at the moment.

[kdm]

My aim with the next box was to get the lid to fit well and take pictures of that process.

I managed to get two more blanks out of my piece of cedar but I had to cut and turn away loads of wood to get rid of all the cracks - the best part went in the first box. The shape of this box is largely determined by what was left afterwards!

Forming the flange on the lid - again done with the square scraper. The flange should have parallel sides and this can be checked with an inside spring caliper. Set the caliper at the end of the flange and pull it slowly out. It should just touch the sides all the way. Adjust with the scraper until it does.

When finally adjusting the flange on the base to fit the lid, hold the lid lightly against the base as it spins. This will leave a burnish mark. With the skew as a scraper remove a little from the flange on the left of the burnish mark so that the bit with the burnish mark becomes the high point. The lid should then fit loosely enough to easily turn but there will be some resistance to removing it as it forms a slight vaccuum.

Took a few goes with very light scrapes with the skew to get there but the lid fits very well.

The base cracked when it was on the jam chuck - guess it was too tight :doh:. I repaired the crack with CA glue and sanded and refinished the base. Didn't dare rechuck it so cut the tenon off with a saw and sanded the bottom.

[kdm]

Onions, oranges, now a mushroom!

The lid is green banksia so it will probably split but you never know.

[Ed Reiss]

your doing well Keith....RR would be proud :2tsup:

[jefferson]

Keep 'em coming Keith! :2tsup:

[kdm]

I've got another one coming Jeff! Nearly finished but I was getting to that tired stage where bad things happen so (unusually) I was sensible and stopped. I'll finish tomorrow with any luck.

Ed - I don't think RR would be proud of my hollowing technique - what takes him around 10 seconds takes me, lets say ... a little longer :U

[jefferson]

Ed - I don't think RR would be proud of my hollowing technique - what takes him around 10 seconds takes me, lets say ... a little longer :U

Don't follow the RR technique for hollowing boxes. Ken W, (and the bugger is a master on boxes :rolleyes:), has shown me and others a better way.

If I can find one of my earlier posts, I'll send it. The method is completely safe and lets you hollow end-grain from inside to out with plenty of supporting wood.

I've started to get fairly aggressive with this cut - it doesn't take long to hollow a small box I assure you! :2tsup:

[kdm]

Jeff I did find your comments on hollowing very useful (I use my Oland tool and don't bore a depth hole but otherwise follow the method). They are in the What's the deal with boxes thread and are as follows;

"The end grain hollowing techniques described are not the only options - and in my mind can be dangerous on hard Oz timbers and particularly for beginners.

A much safer way has been shown to me recently. It's slow but almost "Jeff-proof" and this is how it goes:

- bore a depth hole just above the bottom of your intended hollow with a drill bit in the tailstock
- use a "long and strong" detail gouge with a long fingernail grind (rest set for right on centre)
- tilt the gouge at 45 degrees, flute facing you, just inside the depth hole
- then simply pull the gouge from inside to out, using your left hand to control the cut
- try 1mm cuts and then some more, depending on the wood and your skill level
- as you near the rim, you MUST push the handle away from you (the reason for this is that you don't want to expose the wide wing of the gouge to the side grain).

It works a treat and is very simple compared with the back-hollowing technique that Raffan describes."

[jefferson]

Keith,

It's not my method, but one that Ken W showed me. I've found - especially with a Tormek-sharp chisel - I can be fairly / very aggressive with the cuts. I wish I could post a short U-Tube type DVD of Ken at work. He makes it look very easy, even on stuff that is very, very hard.

I'll talk with the Anal one. I think it's time he gave the crew (at least in Victoria) a lesson or three on boxes. Free of charge of couse!:D:D:D Finials as well!

The bugger can turn.... And talk at the same time, which confounds me. :rolleyes:

The thing I like about the cut is that it's completely safe - at least if you are careful as you near the side grain and don't poke the chisel into end grain when you are finished.

[kdm]

This one is a tribute to Cindy Droza.

113024

113025

113026

And one to give an idea of scale.

113014

Made from silky oak with jarrah inset ring and foot.

The method is almost exactly the same as the first box just the inset ring and foot are different. There is a video of Cindy doing a demo in which she makes a box like this at http://www.woodworkingchannel.com/dolphin/vidego_video_library.php To see it scroll across to AAW within the video library box (you have to wait for that to load) and then down to Cindy Droza.

It was really scary pulling out the lid from the jam chuck, I made it too tight and there is only the finial to pull on to get it back out. I thought about putting it in the fridge for a bit but got it out before I did that. Would that help?

[jefferson]

Keith,

The bar is certainly too high for some of us (me in particular). I don't particularly like the box finial, but that's just my opinion. You executed Cindy's project very well. :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Someone must put all the pics together at the end of this. A job for you, ? :rolleyes:

I've found that if the lid-fit or jam chuck is a fraction tight, I simply hold the base or the jam chuck in my hands for a minute or so. The base expands a fraction with the "heat" and you're on your way again. Oops, it's the other way around....

[kdm]

Thanks for the jam chuck freeing tip Jeff, I'll try that next time.

I started out a bit cold on the finial but I'm pretty attached to the little box now. Plenty of faults but a bit of fun to make.

[tea lady]

Sweet! :cool: Must do a Silky one too. :D

Don't some people drill a hole in the jam chuck so you can poke something through to get the thing out again. :shrug:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Don't some people drill a hole in the jam chuck so you can poke something through to get the thing out again. :shrug:

:yes:

Especially if it's a tad loose and I'm taking heavyish cuts, where an extra bit of tissue won't work too well to hold it. Then I might use a dob or two of HMGlue in the corners and such a poke hole becomes necessary.

[tea lady]

:yes:

Especially if it's a tad loose and I'm taking heavyish cuts, where an extra bit of tissue won't work too well to hold it. Then I might use a dob or two of HMGlue in the corners and such a poke hole becomes necessary.:? Dare I ask?:C:rolleyes::D

:doh: Hot Melt. That comes off all right? Another thing I need.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Yep. Hot-melt. :U

It just peels off. If you're just HMGluing a spigot on it can be tricky; you need to be very, very careful when taking heavy cuts. Combined with a jam-chuck it's a pretty solid mount.

[kdm]

In this case the jam chuck was the base of the box so not a good idea to drill a hole in it :oo:

[tea lady]

In this case the jam chuck was the base of the box so not a good idea to drill a hole in it :oo::doh: No, I guess not.:rolleyes::D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Maybe not, but it wouldn't be the first time someone did just that... :innocent:

[kdm]

Believe me I was thinking about doing that! With the foot added and the inside lined with gold leaf (not that I have any of that) no one would ever know :;

[Ed Reiss]

Keith, ya' dun' good...nice turning :2tsup:

[Sawdust Maker]

Keith
Very nice work and I think I've learnt a lot from your discussion and the other comments made by everyone else :2tsup:
I hope my third is in the same class as yours
Yeah RR makes it look so simple. I'm at home crook so have watched his DVD a couple of times (Lane Cove library has it for those who are in this neck of the woods)

A suggestion for your dust extractor nozzle. I've put a piece of gutter guard in/across mine. So when you lose the piece of sandpaper it doesn't end up in the dusty. Not that that is much of a problem. But it is a PITA when it is a new piece :roll:. I've got mine sort of hinged so it lifts out of the way when I'm doing chisel work, otherwise it clogs up with curlies.

[kdm]

Thanks Sawdustmaker and Ed.

That DVD (from Brisbane library) was about the first thing I saw when I started woodturning 3 months ago. I though holy #$%^ how am I supposed to do that! I'm still not game to try his hollowing technique and I don't rough anything out with a skew chisel otherwise I follow his methods as best I can but much slower.

That's a good idea with the dust extractor. I do have a dustbin separator which makes it easier to recover the sandpaper but it's still a nuisance! I got some of that hermes stuff that has been recommended in the forum on Saturday and certainly don't want to lose that!

[kdm]

Dusty guard now attached :2tsup:

[Sawdust Maker]

gees
how quick was that! :2tsup:
like the hinges

looks like you have the home made stand as well - made mine out of an old office chair liberated last council cleanup

[kdm]

The stand is some sort of music stand I got from Reverse Garbage (a recycling shop in Brisbane) for $3. A bit exy compared with yours but not too bad!

[kdm]

This is my second go at a box like this, the first one had a lot of stuff ups including making the bottom so thin it broke whilst I was working on the top which was jammed onto the base. Fixed that by gluing on a new bottom just for the practise etc!

The idea here is to minimise the wood lost between the base and the top so that the grain runs as well as possible between the two. Started parting the top and base using a thin parting tool ( to get it square etc) and then completed the cut with a thin kerf saw - it's the one I use for dovetails etc. The parting tool is 1/16" and thicker than the saw blade so the lost wood is 1/16".

I then glued a plug into a recess in the base. This plug becomes the flange. Everything then proceeds as per the standard method I have been using.

I put some tape round to reinforce the jam fit of the top onto the base as I had quite a bit of work to do on the top to make a recess for the 'button' on top.

I made the 'button' by holt melt gluing some Solomons ebony onto a bit of wood in the chuck and cutting into it from the front with a parting tool, removed the outside waste and finished with a gouge. Sanded and polished and the heat from polishing was enough to melt the glue - just as I was wondering how to get it off!

Completed box - I sure picked a bad bit of wood (Silver ash) to show grain continuity but never mind.

[ElizaLeahy]

You make me hungry for little boxes! I must get back to work!

Thanks for all the lovely pictures. I like all your boxes so far!

[kdm]

Another little silky oak box. No WIP as it is just the standard method except the top is an innie and a top as well :wink:

[ElizaLeahy]

grrr, you beat me to it! I was going to make one of them!

:(

[Sawdust Maker]

Another little silky oak box. No WIP as it is just the standard method except the top is an innie and a top as well :wink:
:brava:brava

[kdm]

grrr, you beat me to it! I was going to make one of them!

:(

You can beat me to doing one with a tippe top as a lid :U

[kdm]

I was tempted to get more fancy with the finial but even this one is much harder to use for spinning the top than a thicker one so I'm glad I didn't.

There's some bright red in the middle of this silky oak, doesn't really show in any of the boxes I've made from it though there's a hint in this one. Must be minerals it picked up while it was growing or something like that.

[ElizaLeahy]

Yes, spinning tops are easier if the handle is straight up and down. Great for tops, not so good for finials.

You are really good at these little boxes! And you make silky oak (not my favourite timber) look good!

Maybe if the handle was straight, with a little ball at the top. I'd try it on a top first though to see how easy it was to spin.

I'm having too much fun with finials just now, maybe later I'll do a tippy top!

This is really good work, congrats!

[kdm]

Thanks Eliza.

This top has to be spun with the bit at the top of the finial - the thin bit is too thin. A thicker stem with a ball would certainly work much better. I was aiming for a continuous curve on the lid and that has compromised the spinning top a bit!

I'm surprised how much detail silky oak will take - I found that out when I made my Cindy Drozda tribute box, I thought it would chip out but with sharp tools it doesn't.

[kdm]

I have a piece of pink gidgee with a few borer holes in it. This is the end and has two badly placed holes so I thought I'd use the middle as an inlay. Hot melt glued to a piece of wood in the scroll chuck, cut in from the front to create a disc.

Box made as normal, timber is silver ash. Marking out for the recess using vernier guage - contact on left hand side only, soft touches until mark lines up on right then a bit more pressure to make the final mark.

[tea lady]

:2tsup: Wow! Look what you've been up to while I wasn't looking. Love the top tops. :2tsup: And Silky Oak (and anything else with mandullray rays ) is my favourite wood.:cool:

[TTIT]

Way too productive :no: It's just not fair that someone should have so much time on their hands :~ Not hard to see who's going to produce the most boxes for the challenge :shrug: (Not that I'm jealous or anything :shrug: )
I like the use of the inserts. I started using them early in my turning journey but just sort of forgot to since. Good work KDM. How many more do you reckon you'll get in for the month????

[kdm]

They are simple little boxes though TTIT, not like your amazing creation :D.

How many more I make depends on how complicated the boxes are and whether I get distracted :U. I set out to spend an hour or so a day on this project and aside from weekends that's about what I'm doing. It fits in well following a month or so of spindle turning exercises producing nothing but sawdust in the end, not even toothpicks :wink:

[kdm]

This one is made from Pink Gidgee, about 11cm tall.

The wood is bone dry but has cracked a bit especially the sap wood - is this to be expected?

[Allan at Wallan]

The wood is bone dry but has cracked a bit especially the sap wood - is this to be expected?[/QUOTE]

Yes, you should have expected that. :roll: So can I have it as one of
your rejects and make it an entry of mine.:D

Absolutely love it - well done:2tsup:

Allan

[ElizaLeahy]

Wow! That's wonderful! What a beautiful piece of timber too.

I can't speak to the cracks.

Now you will have made Jeff cranky.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Nicely done! No shots with the lid removed? :;


The wood is bone dry but has cracked a bit especially the sap wood - is this to be expected?

To be expected? :no: But by the same token, it's neither unusual or surprising. I reckon the #1 cause of surface checks on "bone dry" timber is over-heating. This can happen at any stage...

During turning. Gidgee, being a hard wood, bluntens tools quickly. Blunt tools get hot fast. As does too heavy a hand with bevel rubbing. (ie. people pushing the bevel "into" the wood.) If the tool tip becomes overly warm, let it cool down a bit. Better still go sharpen it. :;


During sanding... this is where most people cause cracking, when they become over-enthusiastic with sanding. There's no need to apply any force to the paper at all. If you need "backing" behind the paper to stop burning your fingers, you're both cooking the wood and wearing out the paper.

Worse, any trapped particles are more likely to score the wood, making you need to go back up a grit to remove them. Many people persist in trying to use the same piece of paper instead, tripling or quadrupling the required amount of sanding time. And cooking hell out of the wood while they're at it. :doh:

Slow the lathe down, and let the paper do the cutting at the rate it wants. If it doesn't sand as fast as it's should, it's time for a new bit of paper!


Friction Finishes. OK, these need to go on hot to apply properly. Shellawax in particular. But the idea is to get a spot hot and then move the rag. Not sit in one spot for 30 seconds.

A finish shouldn't take anywhere near as long to apply as you took to sand, so although you get the finish hot you're not applying the heat long enough in one spot for it to penetrate into the wood and cause cracking. In theory, anyway. There'll always be odd jobs where applying the finish takes waaay longer than expected. DAMHIKT.

Sorry for the long-winded response, but sometimes I can't help myself... :B

[tea lady]

The pink gidgee box is loverly.:2tsup: Some of the curves on the finial could have been a bit more finessed, but very nice all the same! :cool:

I think I'll pull some bits of gidgee out next week. :think: first got to find as bandsaw to blunt.:rolleyes:

[kdm]

Our much loved pooch, Sam, died overnight, quite unexpectedly though he was off his food yesterday.

He didn't have any toys, he couldn't see the point of them. He did however love little liver treats - once we'd trained him to like them that is, he didn't like them at first but got to realise they were a sign that we approved of him and what he was doing so being keen to please he was soon addicted!

So, I crammed as many treats as I could in the little pink gidgee box and buried it with Sam.

He's been watching me throughout all this - he was never happy with me out of sight. He was an ex shelter dog and I don't think he could ever quite believe his luck finding someone who would put up with his shortcomings and not kick him out. Truth is, we were the lucky ones.

Sorry to babble on and be off topic.

I'll move on from this thread and start a new one for whatever I do next.

[Ozkaban]

Sorry to hear the news Keith. I've had some great dogs out of shelters over the years. Nice to bury the box with him.

Regards and thoughts to your family.

Cheers,
Dave

[wheelinround]

Keith sorry to hear of your loss of Sam

[jefferson]

Keith, sorry from here too. Dogs are part of the family and it really hurts when they go. Maybe a new pup????

[Ed Reiss]

good job on the pink gidgee Keith :2tsup:

[Ed Reiss]

Keith, just now read the post about your dog passing...so sorry, they certainly are like family and the loss can be every bit as devastating.
Very thoughtful to place the gidgee box with Sam.
Ann and I extend our sympathies.

[ElizaLeahy]

I'm so sorry, you know how I feel about dogs, and I understand your loss :(

[jefferson]

Wow! That's wonderful! What a beautiful piece of timber too.

I can't speak to the cracks.

Now you will have made Jeff cranky.

Me, cranky? Never, except with myself. No turning at all this week, but there will be some product soon. If not, blame WWW and the Axe Man. :D:D:D


Nicely done! No shots with the lid removed? :;


To be expected? :no: But by the same token, it's neither unusual or surprising. I reckon the #1 cause of surface checks on "bone dry" timber is over-heating. This can happen at any stage...


During turning. Gidgee, being a hard wood, bluntens tools quickly. Blunt tools get hot fast. As does too heavy a hand with bevel rubbing. (ie. people pushing the bevel "into" the wood.) If the tool tip becomes overly warm, let it cool down a bit. Better still go sharpen it. :;


During sanding... this is where most people cause cracking, when they become over-enthusiastic with sanding. There's no need to apply any force to the paper at all. If you need "backing" behind the paper to stop burning your fingers, you're both cooking the wood and wearing out the paper.

Worse, any trapped particles are more likely to score the wood, making you need to go back up a grit to remove them. Many people persist in trying to use the same piece of paper instead, tripling or quadrupling the required amount of sanding time. And cooking hell out of the wood while they're at it. :doh:

Slow the lathe down, and let the paper do the cutting at the rate it wants. If it doesn't sand as fast as it's should, it's time for a new bit of paper!


Friction Finishes. OK, these need to go on hot to apply properly. Shellawax in particular. But the idea is to get a spot hot and then move the rag. Not sit in one spot for 30 seconds.

A finish shouldn't take anywhere near as long to apply as you took to sand, so although you get the finish hot you're not applying the heat long enough in one spot for it to penetrate into the wood and cause cracking. In theory, anyway. There'll always be odd jobs where applying the finish takes waaay longer than expected. DAMHIKT.
Sorry for the long-winded response, but sometimes I can't help myself... :B

Andy, you are always helpful. Give yourself a pat and have a coldie or cuppa or whatever you want. :2tsup::2tsup:

[tea lady]

:C So sorry to hear about your dog. I've got one that doesn't like me out of her sight. It will sure be a wrench when she goes.

[kdm]

Thanks for all your kind comments. Jeff, we're going to think about whether to get another dog for a while though getting a pup straight away is tempting :U

Skew, thanks for the advice. I'll make another box with the same wood some time and keep your comments in mind. I'll try and work out at what stage the checking occurs if it does next time.