PDA

View Full Version : making goblets???



sailormark45
8th August 2009, 03:20 AM
Hi Roomies. I am a newbie on wood turning ..I used to be a machinist on metal lathes. But am having a ball watching the wood chips fly... Looking for a good steady rest I can make myself for hollowing out goblets etc Thanx in advance.
mark in TEXAS

Ad de Crom
8th August 2009, 04:16 AM
Hi Mark, welcome.
For a machinist like you is it a piece of a cake to make a steady rest.
Three wheels of an in line skate, and some handy work, and ready you are.
You can turn a goblet without using a steady rest, by first making the cup, and with the help of your tailstock as a help for supporting the hollowed cup, the rest.
Have fun.
Ad

Ed Reiss
8th August 2009, 12:45 PM
Hey Mark...welcome to the asylum.:2tsup:

This might help

http://woodwhispererforum.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=110

munruben
8th August 2009, 01:35 PM
Welcome to the forum, great to have you aboard:2tsup:

pommyphil
8th August 2009, 08:18 PM
I've been making goblets from grean limbs. so long as they're fairly concentric get no cracking or distortion as they dry, tried Giant Privet, White Cedar and Mulberry thus far with no problems, great practice.

I thought he meant a steady TOOL rest.

Maybe very long stemmed goblets:-

Skew ChiDAMN!!
8th August 2009, 08:39 PM
Any thin-stemmed goblet over about 7" high really needs a centre-steady. Otherwise the odd against it surviving to completion increase exponentially. :;

I've used both string-steadies around the top of the stem/base of the bowl and wheeled steadies around the wider part of the bowl.

As Ad said, you can use wheels from in-line skates, although I prefer a smaller diameter wheel (from roller skates or skate-boards) because I generally work on small items. Whatever you use, make sure they're a good neoprene rubber and have roller-bearings. Otherwise they'll have to be replaced so soon it's ridiculous.

rodent
11th August 2009, 02:01 PM
Any thin-stemmed goblet over about 7" high really needs a centre-steady. Otherwise the odd against it surviving to completion increase exponentially. :;

I've used both string-steadies around the top of the stem/base of the bowl and wheeled steadies around the wider part of the bowl.

As Ad said, you can use wheels from in-line skates, although I prefer a smaller diameter wheel (from roller skates or skate-boards) because I generally work on small items. Whatever you use, make sure they're a good neoprene rubber and have roller-bearings. Otherwise they'll have to be replaced so soon it's ridiculous.

Skew I think we will have to re name you Skew ChiDAMN the GoBlet Man .

Skew ChiDAMN!!
12th August 2009, 04:38 PM
Skew I think we will have to re name you Skew ChiDAMN the GoBlet Man .

More like "Damn, damn, DAMN!"

issatree
14th August 2009, 04:56 PM
Hi All You Goblet Makers,
I'm sorry, but I fail to see the problem. It has been many years since I've made one, but all we did was to cut a piece of Polystyrene to the shape of the Goblet Bowl.

Fit it inside, after the bowl has been sanded & finished, then just bring up the Tail Stock, & with light pressure wind the live Tail Centre into the styrene then Turn the stem,

I have always used a Ring & Cone Live Tail Centre, as the straight Cone might not give you the pressure needed to hold the Goblet steady.

So much easier than having that cumbersome Steady always in the way.

As Always, it is horses for courses.
Regards,
issatree.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
14th August 2009, 05:01 PM
Hi All You Goblet Makers,
I'm sorry, but I fail to see the problem. It has been many years since I've made one, but all we did was to cut a piece of Polystyrene to the shape of the Goblet Bowl.

It all depends on how long & thin you want to make the stem. If you like "chunky" then there's no problem.

But for any given thickness, there is a maximum length past which any pressure by the tailstock causes whipping... and likely breakage. :shrug:

The obvious solution is not to use the tailstock. :;

issatree
16th August 2009, 02:53 AM
To the Goblet Makers,
The point is TO USE the Tail Stock. I have always successfully turned them the way I explained.
Of course you have to pick the timber that is not going to bounce.
So if you are going to use a soft wood eg. Huon - Magnolia - Pine - Red Gum etc. then you are going to have a problem.
I would use, Cotoneaster - Photinia - Olive - Grey Box - Black Walnut - Apple - Lemon etc.
I have always just used my Thumb & Finger to steady my work, & mainly @ 3000 RPM.
Steven Cooper ( English Turner) has a saying, " He Who Dares Wins ".
Regards,
issatree.
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">