Changing blades on a Woodfast bandsaw

[GrEy.Chas]

Well, I guess blades break eventually... and one just did for us at School.

We use it - as long as I've been here & watching it in use - to cut wood.
(Of course, I haven't been here all that long, as yet...)

Looking at the old (no longer joined) blade, I see a blade that's about
50mm wide and about 2.49m long. I don't see any maker's marking on it.
(It didn't snap at the weld, by the way.)

I think we're lucky, as there are a couple of (rusty) replacement blades,
hanging from a nail in our store room.

Now, one is the same size but rusty. Another is about twice the width &
also rusty.

1. What are the trade-off's between using the original size blade & one
that's about twice as wide?

I suppose one may have more strength in a wider blade, but may not be
about to cut in as "sharp a turn" as with the narrower one. (True or False?)

2. Can / should I try to do anything about the rust before trying to install
one of the two blades?

3. Should I attempt the installation myself (having yet to do this task)?

If so, what precautions / configuration steps should I take while doing so?

4. Should I use this as an opportunity to check / lubricate / etc. any
part(s) of the rest of this reliable old friend?

We've got what appears to be the instruction booklet for this bandsaw...
although I don't see a model number on the actual bandsaw, the
sketch on the front cover seems to match. (Of course, it's possible
that Woodfast made similar saws in various sizes, right?)

The booklet refers to Steelfast 370 & - for blade length - Model 370 MM (14" )
seems to have cut length 99.5" (inches) or welded length 99.25" or 99.375"
(or a length between those #'s) - depending on the weld type (butt or lapped).

The booklet seems to have info on making blades, for those with a roll of
either 250 ft or 100 ft of the right kind of steel at hand...

(If someone knows - or can point me at - more info about the Woodfast
bandsaws, apparently made in Woodville (Adelaide), SA. Ours was even
sold by Harris Scarfe... so it must go back a while...)

Later in the booklet, countries are listed (including Sweden), known to be
good sources of blades (or steel for them).

It's already been a cultural experience browsing the 16 page booklet; now,
I wonder if I can put the info to use to enable me to -safely- bring this fine
machine back on-line for our students... as they continue to make parts
for (mostly wood) Automata, of their own designs...

Oh, sources of good quality blades would be of interest, as we'd likely
want to find more blades to swap in, now that we're down a blade.

Who makes the best? Who make affordable ones that are safe & reliable?

Any tips, suggestions, questions (if I've left anything out), etc, would be
most welcome. :-

[rsser]

Twice as wide means much more friction.

Rust likely will have dulled the teeth.

New ones aren't dear. Try eg. Henry Bros in NSW - tell 'em what it's used for and they'll advise on width and teeth config. They can make blades up to specific lengths.

Yeah, should be able to do it yourself.

May need some trial cuts after to get the blade tracking properly.

[GrEy.Chas]

Even if the blads don't cost an arm & a leg,
if is reasonably easy & safe to remove rust
from a blade that's already here?

Eg, spray on solvent & (later) a careful
brushing or wipe down?

(We get post once a week here... ;-)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Depends on how badly rusted. Running it through a piece of scrap wood will clean off the worst if it's only light.

Turning the bandsaw blade inside out & running it so the teeth are "upside down" while you clean up the back of the blade with fine grit paper is also an option.

But as Ern has already said, if it's rusty it's probably also blunt. Not really worthwhile cleaning up unless you'll also be having it sharpened; do you have the gear/skill to touch them up yourself?

Replacing it yourself should be a relatively straightforward task. Don't forget to back off the tension & guides first!


As for the blade width; you're right. The wider one won't allow anywhere near as curved a cut.

But if the narrow one is 50mm (2inches) then the wide one must be 10cm (4" wide)!! :oo: At that size they're purely for ripping straight lines... I wouldn't even remotely think about trying to cut curves with either one!

I suspect that you've got your measurements wrong though... :;

[China]

As Skew said that bandsaw should not be running anything like a 50mm wide blade I would say the max for that saw would be 19mm

[GrEy.Chas]

Yes, after hours measuring must sometimes be done twice or,
as in this case, what we write down must be written more clearly! :-/

Thanks for the width corrections, fellows.

Here's the most recent re-measurement:

our narrower blade's ~ 9 mm

Does that sound a little better...? :-)

Thanks for all the advice & your patience, folks!
I feel I've learned a lot, along the way.

Now, it's my students' turns... :-)

PS I've just installed a new blade, made some
straight & slightly curved cuts (into soft woods),
and all stay where it started out.

Onr problem: I think we'll need to replace the
lower bearing wheel; it's not turning as easily
as the top one.

The manual refers to SKF 6201-ZZ, saying it
should be available with Spigot & Spacer, which
I interpret to mean: all ready to pop into the place
of the older one.

So I wonder: Who sells that kind of thing?

Also: How to know how tight to set blade tension?

(It'd be nice to know what musical note it should
sound like, ie, when "strummed" once... with all
the modern electronic instrument tuning devices
around today, that might simplify things a bit. ;-)

[Glennet]

Onr problem: I think we'll need to replace the
lower bearing wheel; it's not turning as easily
as the top one.


I had guide bearing problems with my Woodfast 350 bandsaw and there is a thread on it somewhere. The upshot was that the ones it was supplied with were poor quality and its best to replace them all, its the same ones they use for skateboards with red plastic seals. They don't cost much and are readily available. Sounds like yours might have been older and better, but even so I wouldn't mess about replacing one at a time.

Mine also came with a narrow blade, likely also 9mm, which was hopeless for resawing which is about all I use it for. I didn't realize the problem until it broke. I got a 19mm one and life got a lot easier. I got it from Woodfast but I just checked their site and they only go up to 12mm on the 370 model.

[clear out]

The bottom wheel wont turn as easily as the top as it is connected to the motor by a vee belt.
Is this a woodfast or as in your manual a steelfast? these are different saws the steelfast has a 4 step pulley and a reduction gearbox.
Are you trained to use this machine?
Do you have plenty of super glue to re attach fingers?
Good luck.
H

[Woodlee]

Yes, after hours measuring must sometimes be done twice or,
as in this case, what we write down must be written more clearly! :-/

Thanks for the width corrections, fellows.

Here's the most recent re-measurement:

our narrower blade's ~ 9 mm

Does that sound a little better...? :-)

Thanks for all the advice & your patience, folks!
I feel I've learned a lot, along the way.

Now, it's my students' turns... :-)

PS I've just installed a new blade, made some
straight & slightly curved cuts (into soft woods),
and all stay where it started out.

Onr problem: I think we'll need to replace the
lower bearing wheel; it's not turning as easily
as the top one.

The manual refers to SKF 6201-ZZ, saying it
should be available with Spigot & Spacer, which
I interpret to mean: all ready to pop into the place
of the older one.

So I wonder: Who sells that kind of thing?

Also: How to know how tight to set blade tension?

(It'd be nice to know what musical note it should
sound like, ie, when "strummed" once... with all
the modern electronic instrument tuning devices
around today, that might simplify things a bit. ;-)


Chaz ,

6201-zz is a common ball bearing available at any engineering supply or even some auto parts stores for few bucks each
zz means it has a shield each side of the race to stop crap from getting into the bearing and to keep the grease in that's packed into it when its made.

Try Carparts NT in Katherine they will definitely have them on the shelf .I'm sure they will post them to you .

You should be able to take the old bearings off the spigots and replace with the new ones.

You need to establish what purpose the band saw was intended for , metal of timber ,,you can cut timber on a metal saw ,but difficult the other way around unless you can change the speed and have the suitable blade.
Last lot of blades I got for mine was from Henry Bros in Sydney ,they are very helpful over the phone , they need to know what you are cutting and the length of the blade.

Here's a link (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/band_saw_tool_school/) to some bandsaw tips.


Kev

[Big Shed]

The ZZ ones are just the metal sealed bearings, better to get the 2RS equivalent, it has a rubber seal on each side and the last much longer. They only cost a couple of dollars more, they are available from any bearing place.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=73960&highlight=bas350+bearings

[Woodlee]

Yep , What Big Shed sed .


Kev. (still suffering return to work shock )