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sam63
27th July 2004, 04:29 PM
Hi everyone,

I am building a workbench and have a couple of questions. I have read in number of discussions in this forum that people use sheets of MDF for the top. Now the first questions. How do you glue and clamp them? Is there special glue e.g. slow curing since the surface is quite large? The next question I have is the surface where the workbench will be sitting. It is in my garage and it not quite level. How do you fix this problem so that the workbench is level? Any feedback will be highly appreciated.

Cheers,
Sam

PaulS
27th July 2004, 04:38 PM
Sam,

I thought about the MDF proposition, but went with a solid core door that i picked up from a used building materials supplier,(salvage yard), $30, it was a brand new door with a small bit of damage.

I built the weekend workbench. (see plansnow website for a pic. http://www.plansnow.com/wwrkbnch.html) Buy the plans or if your clever its probably easy to work out from the exploded diagram.

This is my second bench, I have made the first one wasn't big enough and pretty crap really.

Welcome and good luck
Paul

PS in terms of levelling, i am yet to find a floor that is level, i just put a bit thin bit of mdf under one leg. I think it is probably important to have a flat top, it is slightly out of level thats ok.

HonkyLips
27th July 2004, 05:32 PM
I think the answer on the surface depends on whether your workbench is your workspace - MDF is cheap and replaceable so you might not want to glue it at all.

MDF is great for the price but isn't always perfectly flat. I have an MDF workbench which isn't my workspace - it's useful because I'm not worried about the surface - tools can scratch it or chip it and it doesn't matter. It is not glued to the top of the bench so I can change it over when it gets too chipped and scratched. I use a separate table which I keep clean for use as a flat, clean workspace.

I have given serious thought to getting a thick piece of tempered glass to use as a perfectly flat surface. I've discovered the hard way that to get really good results you want your work to be square - and a flat bench is very important. Glass as a surface may sound a bit dangerous and unusual, but for things like model planes (where 1mm can alter the handling & performance dramatically) or picture frames I think it could be a worthwhile investment.

And as far as glue goes, if you're going to glue the top on, I've had no problems with normal PVA - it dries very quickly because MDF is so porous and sets stronger than the wood.

Ben from Vic.
27th July 2004, 09:38 PM
Sam

There is a two part video at the link below that deals with veneering onto MDF, whilst this is not exactly what your doing, it is close and may be helpful. :)

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt083a.asp


Ben.

craigb
28th July 2004, 10:42 AM
When I made my bench a few years ago from Australian Woodsmith plans, the top consisted of three 18mm sheets of MDF glued together. I didn't clamp them though as the plans called for them to be glued and screwed together.

That is, you first spread your glue on one sheet then screw through from what will be the underside. I used 30mm screws from memory. Then when that's done, you repeat the process with the third sheet.

The only thing you need to be careful about is, if you are going to drill holes in the bench top for bench dogs that you don't put any screws in the dog hole areas.

In retrospect, I wish that I'd put a sheet of masonite on top of it all to act as a sacrificial work top , as after three years the MDF is starting to look a bit the worse for wear.

Guess it's on the list to do something about that. :rolleyes:

I don't know how far advanced you are in making your bench but it may be worth getting a copy of the Australian Woodsmith to help you along with it.

I built mine out of Tas Oak and I've been very happy with it. It's as solid as a rock and bloody heavy.

Hope this is some help :)

Craig

P.S. It's in issue 19 of Aus Woodsmith

sam63
29th July 2004, 09:56 AM
Thanks everyone. You have been great help. One more question though. Is tempered masonite same as the masonite, the one with the dark brown colour, sold in hardware stores?

Ben from Vic.
29th July 2004, 11:44 AM
Is tempered masonite same as the masonite, the one with the dark brown colour, sold in hardware stores?

Nope, it's a bit harder. :)

See here for more info. (http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/masonite.htm)


Ben.

TOMARTOM
29th July 2004, 01:10 PM
I used masonite on an earlier bench over 30mm chipboard(because it was available on hand) stick the masonite on with a tube of zero nails, and replace the masonite when required.

regards tony

sam63
30th July 2004, 01:40 PM
Can anyone tell me where to get these tempered masonite in Sydney , idealy inner west or eastern suburbs area? As far as I know hardware stores do not stock them.

Cheers,
Sam

Ivan in Oz
31st July 2004, 08:02 AM
Ppl,
What is the correct name for the Vice in the Picture in the Top LHS of the Page of the expolded view drawing?

http://www.plansnow.com/weekworexvie.html

I have two similar to the [smaller] one in the Expolded view.
The larger one looks kinder to the timber.

Count

Ben from Vic.
31st July 2004, 11:08 AM
Ivan,

Look like a normal old bench vise to me. :confused:

Ben.

Al B
31st July 2004, 11:34 AM
Ivan

Do a search on Google for Woodworkers Vise Hope this helps.

Dewy
1st August 2004, 05:04 AM
I made my 5' x 30" bench 10 years ago from 3"x3" for legs, 4"x2" for rails housed into the legs then held with coach bolts.
The top is 3/4" plywood on 4"x2" frame laid flat. Hardboard (masonite) covers the top which had a hardwood surround which also becomes the internal woodworkers vise jaw and is level with the hardboard.
Some chipboard forms a shelf on the bottom rails giving plenty of storage space for timber under 5' long.
I also use a master vice set which has far more accessories than shown on the website and is the most versatile vice and clamping system going. It can be used as an acro prop if fitted to a thick length of timber. It's only limitation is your ingenuity at finding ways to use it.
Apart from workshop use I have also used it to lift 6"x4" fence posts sunk 3' into clay soil without damaging the timber in any way.
http://www.jmldirect.com/products/productdetails.asp?Keywords=&prodID=250&catID=3&catname=D.I.Y.

forunna
3rd August 2004, 12:30 AM
Is that the system that is always in some little corner being enthusiastically demonstrated at all kinds of shows? with a hundred different configurations?
Is it really that good, and strong?

vsquizz
3rd August 2004, 01:29 AM
Sam, Whilst I'm late in on this thread I have built some 10 workbenches over the years and now use only FormPly. This is the stuff thay use for concrete mouldings etc. You need to ask around but any proper plywood supplier will have it.

My brother has two of these benches in his prof workshop and they are still going strong after 8 years. FormPly is not the cheapest but very strong and durable, resistant to moisture and oils. Offcuts make great fences for the router table due to the smooth finish.

I also like the masonite top just held down with a few screws for easy replacement. It depends what your mainly using it for. I have a pine finished top on my main "work" bench and FormPly on my finishing/assembly bench. When the pine ones buggered I'll replace it with a hardwood bench.

FormPly on your bench extensions for the SCMS are great as they allow you to slide your timber along smoothly and easily, unlike normal ply.

Hope this helps

Ben from Vic.
3rd August 2004, 01:32 AM
And he built them all lying down. :D

vsquizz
3rd August 2004, 01:39 AM
And he built them all lying down. :D
Did not...I was awake for most of em:o ... I find the pine top is much better to sleep on. The masonite is too cold.

PS: Don't you know Ben? Mexicans are not allowed Seniors Cards:D

Dewy
3rd August 2004, 01:57 AM
That's the one forunna.
I bought mine after a demo on a 24hour shopping channel for over £100 8 years ago.
Since the patent ran out, other companies are selling an identical vice set for £50 now.
The first time I went to put the soft jaws for the bench dogs I was heavy handed and broke one. It was replaced by return.
I originally intended fitting an end vice to my bench but have no need for one since getting this vice kit.
It has so many accessories that I keep them all in their own drawer for quick and easy access. It only takes a few seconds to set up how and where you want to use it.
The swivel, tilt and turn piece is ideal for carving although not shown on the JML site.
I have found a number of ways to configure it that are not shown and am still finding new ways.
You are only limited by your own imagination in using it.
Next time you see it demonstrated at a show, don't walk past.
Have a good look at all the ways it can be setup.
I consider it to be one of my better buys.

Ben from Vic.
3rd August 2004, 12:25 PM
I have one of the Z vises to.
It is quite sturdy.

If you use it like a vise it should last a long time. You will run into trouble if you use it as an anvil. :)

I believe that it was originaly designed for the Swiss army.

IMHO it doesn't replace a proper workbench, it's more like a Workmate, usefull if your a setup then packup woodworker.


Vsquizz.

I think that if we're Mexicans, you guys must be Russians. :D


Ben.

vsquizz
5th August 2004, 12:59 PM
Vsquizz.

I think that if we're Mexicans, you guys must be Russians. :D


Ben.You could be right Ben,...I've been doin a lot of Russian around lately.