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ElizaLeahy
29th August 2009, 07:05 PM
I'm making a winged bowl. It has two wings, being made from a rectangle of campher laurel.

How do I sand it without breaking my fingers? The thing whirls like a fan, blows dust all over me... If our fan breaks during summer, I know what to use!

dai sensei
29th August 2009, 07:18 PM
I tend to use sandpaper on one of those thick scour pads from the kitchen.

But the safest way is glueing on waste blocks on the sides during turning and finishing, then removing them when finished.

ElizaLeahy
29th August 2009, 07:22 PM
it's the removing them that gives me pause :)

No bandsaw. And if I use hot melt - no microwave. I know, I'm possibly the only person in Australia who doesn't have a microwave. I had one blow up in my face, puts one off a little.

How else would I remove it? Although at this stage of the game I'm thinking I'll try the scouring pad.

Thanks :)

tea lady
29th August 2009, 07:34 PM
Use a bigger piece of sand paper that can reach from one wing to the other. Then hold it parallel to the surface. Hold the paper kinda trailing on the work. Is that clear as mud.:rolleyes:

nalmo
29th August 2009, 08:06 PM
Hand sanding after shear scraping works for me. Takes a lot longer, but I've still got all 10 fingers, and no near misses. You can also stop the lathe and use a drill with a sanding pad and velcro backed paper.

Check out videos on YouTube by bobham5 - he has one about a winged box which will be of help. I watched his video about a square plate and did everything just as he did (only slower) and it turned out great.

thefixer
29th August 2009, 08:13 PM
G'day Eliza

I don't have a bandsaw either. To remove the sacrificial pieces I just saw them off as close as possible with a hand saw and then clean up with very sharp bench chisel and sand to finish. It takes a while and is a bit nerve wracking but you just need to be a bit patient. I leave the piece in the scroll chuck to do this. It makes it easier to handle.

Cheers
Shorty

Broda
29th August 2009, 09:27 PM
what about using an old thong behind the sandpaper?

Calm
29th August 2009, 09:37 PM
what about using an old thong behind the sandpaper?

Very good idea or a cork block or similar - just make sure you get the angle of approach in the right direction.

Cheer

BTW :worthless:

ElizaLeahy
29th August 2009, 09:40 PM
No pictures to show yet. Just started late today, too late to take photos. Unscrewed the chuck and bought it inside with the wood still attached just in case.

Calm
29th August 2009, 09:42 PM
No pictures to show yet. Just started late today, too late to take photos. Unscrewed the chuck and bought it inside with the wood still attached just in case.

of what:?

Skew ChiDAMN!!
29th August 2009, 10:05 PM
It's a bit late now, if you've already started turning, but an alternative way to glue on waste blocks is to laminate a bit of brown paper between, with PVA glue.

The brown paper "weakens" the joint a bit... usually not enough to cause trouble when turning, but enough that you can separate the joint later with a sharp knife. eg. Tap the edge of the knife into one end of the joint with a wooden block, then give it a twist to lever things apart.

It'll need a bit of a clean up with a scraper & sandpaper afterwards, but that's true whatever method you use, really. :;

ElizaLeahy
29th August 2009, 11:24 PM
of what:?

Daytime temps of 30ish, night time temps of 15. Lathe outside in the open. Wood cracks.

:(

NCPaladin
30th August 2009, 06:11 AM
I basically agree with Nalmo. However, you can go ahead and sand the bowl part on the lathe, that is the most difficult part. When you remove it, then sand the wings as suggested with a sander in a drill, an orbital sander, a palm sander, or by hand. All you are sanding at that point is basically a board. I have only made a couple of winged bowls but I would never try to sand the wings with the lathe running.
Mike

Calm
30th August 2009, 08:38 AM
Daytime temps of 30ish, night time temps of 15. Lathe outside in the open. Wood cracks.

:(

Dont let Jeff see this or he will be there in a flash. He really is a sook when it comes to cool weather.:D:D:D:p:p:p Imagine someone complaining about a top of 9 and no idea of the low while he was in Ballarat for 3 days.:?:?

Cheers

Texian
30th August 2009, 09:04 AM
Eliza, Are those temps. in degrees F?

hughie
30th August 2009, 09:06 AM
Hi Eliza,

As Skew has mentioned, its the least scariest and the most simple, plus you get to keep your fingers :2tsup: A bonus :U

I
t's a bit late now, if you've already started turning, but an alternative way to glue on waste blocks is to laminate a bit of brown paper between, with PVA glue.

artme
30th August 2009, 09:23 AM
Eliza, You can buy different densities of rubber at Clark Rubber. Handy for sanding,

ElizaLeahy
30th August 2009, 10:41 AM
No, we measure in C :)

30F.... I wish! It's still winter! I'm not looking forward to summer.

On the other hand, in Dubai it's summer, and the temp is in the high 40's - or higher!

dai sensei
30th August 2009, 11:15 AM
Hmm Eliza what are you going to do when we hit the 40's here, your lathe will become the BBQ :U

Have you seen the add for shade tents for $79 at Supercheap Autos? Not a shed, but at least some shade :-

robbiebgraham
30th August 2009, 11:33 AM
I'm making a winged bowl. It has two wings, being made from a rectangle of campher laurel.

How do I sand it without breaking my fingers? The thing whirls like a fan, blows dust all over me... If our fan breaks during summer, I know what to use!
Hi Eliza,
I do quite a few winged vessels and Hf's and would suggest don't try and sand the when the wood is spinning. I power sand the wings. You will roll the edges over if you sand when the wood is spinning or break your fingers or cut them as one our turners over here did at one of our woodturning jamborees and ended up in hospital:no:
I sand the bottom of the vessel up to the wing with one grit do the wing at the same time but with the lathe off, work through the grits doing this.
Robbie

Texian
30th August 2009, 03:59 PM
It's winter there and it's 86F? Sorry excuse for winter. Should be down around 0 C, as in freezin-**s cold. Summer here, with a few days to 40C, and sixty days to 38C or more. But only if I remember the conversion correctly.

ElizaLeahy
30th August 2009, 04:06 PM
It's extreme for winter. 14deg above normal, adn the hottest we have had since (I think it was) 1946 - or was it 47?

We don't usually get many high 30's even in summer, although occasionally we have the odd summer where we have a few low 40's.

But we do have high humidity, which sucks.

And yes, I'm concerned about turning in Summer. Mostly I'm concerned about grasshoppers because I have a dreadful phobia about them and can't go outside once they are about. So you might not see much turning from me in summer!

The bowl blew out. The lip where I was holding it to do the other side broke. I managed to jam the underside back in the chuck and recut it. I broke again, and I've superglued it. I don't have much more to do to the underside, so this is annoying!

I'll keep going.

Next question.. Is danish oil a non friction polish?

Texian
30th August 2009, 04:17 PM
Sorry about your bowl. Similarly, I broke the same piece twice today. Hope the latest glue joint will be ok in the morning (well, later in the morning. 12:15 a.m. here now). Dunno about danish oil. Minwax Antique Oil can be friction dried about 5 to 10 minutes after application. Same for lacquer-based sanding sealer.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
30th August 2009, 04:17 PM
Next question.. Is danish oil a non friction polish?

Yes. It's not a friction finish. Apply a coat, wait about 15 minutes then gently wipe off the excess. Wait until fully dried - anything up to a couple of days here in the cold, cold south - then repeat until you've built up as many coats and as high a gloss as you want.

Sounds simple, doesn't it? If only... :rolleyes:

NeilS
30th August 2009, 04:23 PM
I don't bother with sacrificial bits... I often leave a natural edge on winged bowls, anyway.

1st. Shear scrape as good as you can before sanding, more than usual.

2nd. power sand the wings at max lathe speed for the piece. Hold sanding disk lightly to surface. This partly reduces tendency for pad to sand more away from leading edge than trailing edge. Slightly tilt up leading edge of revolving disk to avoid catching sanding pad on wing edges.

3rd. Every other grit, stop lathe and hand sand (with the grain), starting with the next grit up. Reason for hand sanding with next grit up is that a power sander results in a finer abrasive 'effect' than hand sanding with the same grit.

4th. My fingers are too useful for other things to put them anywhere near a revolving aeroplane propeller or bowl wings...:)

.

ElizaLeahy
30th August 2009, 09:33 PM
Well - it exploded. So, no winged box. :(

I don't think I'll be game enough to try another for sometime!