bed plans

[tony2096]

Hi,

I'm considering how to make a new bed. I've searched this forum and got some ideas, but I've just come across this site which looks like a very straight forward design...

http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/Guy/bed.html

Does anyone have any comments on the design before I dive in and start chopping?

I like the idea of no end board: I'm >6ft and being able to have my feet hang over the end (like on my current futon sounds attractive) rather than whacking into the end board sounds good.

I would also consider making the legs long enough to be able to have some drawers underneath (with wheels so they sit on the floor).

Tony

[Different]

Hey Tony2069

I have built quite a few beds so I will give you my 10 cents worth.
First thing I dont agree with is the way he has done the slats.
There are far too many of them and too close together.
They are screwed down something I never do if they are supported in the centre as his are.
Slats not only hold the matress off the floor but offer some form of "suspension" and as such should have some flex in them. I would make them somewhere between 15 & 19 mm but I usually use hardwood decking boards for slats

I agree with you hanging your feet over the end I am also tall but I can think of some occasions when it is good to have something you can push on with your feet if you know what I mean !!!

Ross

[PaulS]

Tony

I agree with ross with regards to the slates. There are twice as many there as needed, and i imagine that it is probably good to let a bit of air flow under the matress as well.

Most slate beds have the end slates screwed in and then the other slates are joined to each other with two stips of hesian webbing this spring, but keeps them in place.

Also i reckon that it might be better to have the slates lower down the sides so that the bed partly fits in, rather than on top.

And before you make the bed, buy the mattress so that you ,ake the correct size bed.
Paul.

[duckman]

Hi,

I'm considering how to make a new bed. I've searched this forum and got some ideas, but I've just come across this site which looks like a very straight forward design...

http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/Guy/bed.html

Does anyone have any comments on the design before I dive in and start chopping?

I like the idea of no end board: I'm >6ft and being able to have my feet hang over the end (like on my current futon sounds attractive) rather than whacking into the end board sounds good.

I would also consider making the legs long enough to be able to have some drawers underneath (with wheels so they sit on the floor).

Tony

This is a timely thread. We need a new mattress and I've been tasked to make the base because we want a bed that is higher than most, has drawers under and (from me) no end board because like you I'm >6'.

The technique shown in the link you posted was one I've never thought of but as the others have said, man thats a lot of slats. What was he thinking? His bed looks more like a deck than a bed.

I'll keep watching with interest.

Mark.

[duckman]

Hey Tony2069

I have built quite a few beds so I will give you my 10 cents worth.
First thing I dont agree with is the way he has done the slats.
There are far too many of them and too close together.
They are screwed down something I never do if they are supported in the centre as his are.
Slats not only hold the matress off the floor but offer some form of "suspension" and as such should have some flex in them. I would make them somewhere between 15 & 19 mm but I usually use hardwood decking boards for slats

I agree with you hanging your feet over the end I am also tall but I can think of some occasions when it is good to have something you can push on with your feet if you know what I mean !!!

Ross

Hi Ross,

May I ask why you leave the slats loose? Is it so that they are free to move and thus provide a bit more 'springiness' than they would if they were fixed?


TIA,

Mark.

[tony2096]

Looking at the pictures and description again, the slats are not screwed down, only the centre "stretcher". He talks about the ability to lift all the slats (rather than unscrew them) for bed removal. Also one purpose of the centre stretcher is to keep the bed in shape so the slats don't all fall through to the floor.

I guess his cork spacers fulfill the purpose of keeping these loose slats somewhat aligned. Paul suggests using hesian webbing to keep the slats from moving too much (which matches how my current futon is designed). An alternative would be to glue some spacers along the frame between the slats to constrain their lateral movement. This would still allow for a bit of movement and flex, as Ross says.

Airflow sounds important: I've read elsewhere about mattresses getting mouldy when placed on a solid base. I'll have to ensure slats are spaced appropriately and that my underbed drawers don't restrict airflow too much.

As for matress sizes: I take Paul's point about buying it first but I checked Freedom and they claim all their matresses are the same dimensions:
Queen: 2030 x 1530
King: 2030 x 1820
I hadn't realised how much they cost, though...over $1,000 for a queen size, and they reckon they're cheaper than most other outlets!

Tony

[Bob Willson]

Both king and queen size matresses are 6 ft 9 inches long. If you are 6 ft or over they are a must. You can also purchase king size single matresses. So if you use one of these sizes of matress, then you can still have a footboard that will give you something to push against, (Should the need ever arise) :)

[davo453]

As for matress sizes: I take Paul's point about buying it first but I checked Freedom and they claim all their matresses are the same dimensions:
Queen: 2030 x 1530
King: 2030 x 1820
I hadn't realised how much they cost, though...over $1,000 for a queen size, and they reckon they're cheaper than most other outlets!

Tony

It really is better to get the mattress first, although they say the sizes are all the same some mattresses squash a bit more than others after a bit of use meaning you can't tuck the sheets in easily.

But then again as your not having a foot board it won't be such a problem

Cheers


Dave

[duckman]

<snip>
As for matress sizes: I take Paul's point about buying it first but I checked Freedom and they claim all their matresses are the same dimensions:
Queen: 2030 x 1530
King: 2030 x 1820
I hadn't realised how much they cost, though...over $1,000 for a queen size, and they reckon they're cheaper than most other outlets!

Tony

One thing we've found is that salespeople are in the habit of quoting the price for both mattress and base, despite us telling them that we only want a mattress. Although mattresses alone can be horrendously expensive, if the price quoted seems outrageous, it pays to ensure that you've been quoted for just the mattress.

Mark.

[neddy]

I've only ever made one bed and I used 11 slats (90x35) and notched the side rails to accomodate them. Also the idea of no end board is an unattractive look. Why not have an end board with vertical rails spaced wide enough so as your feet can fit between them.............then you could use the rails to push off! (should the need ever arise).

[Different]

Hi Ross,

May I ask why you leave the slats loose? Is it so that they are free to move and thus provide a bit more 'springiness' than they would if they were fixed?


TIA,

Mark.
Exactly they act like springs even more so on a single bed as you would be unlikely to have a centre support.

[Dewy]

I've made a few beds and always use the same basic method.
Frame made from 3x2 or 4x2 with rebates on the inside to hold the base support which is chipboard with many ½" holes drilled for air circulation. Single bed or bunk bed needs no further support but a double needs a support crosspiece housed half way between top and bottom. The mattress provides enough spring and this support helps prevent back problems associated with a sprung base.
The first 2 beds, made for my sons, have 2 bottom hinged doors on the side to access storage space. Handholds routed in the chipboard base with back edge of chipboard hinged for easy access to underbed storage for larger items. Head and tail boards are optional extras.
All joints were M&Ts held in place with screws from inside so beds can be taken down within 5 minutes then reassembled in the same time.
This was used when one of the kids moved out and needed a bed til he finally decided he preferred just a mattress on the floor when the bed was brought back and reassembled here.
Kids all married with their own kids now but the beds are still as strong as ever after more than 20 years and are now used when the grandkids visit.
Only things replaced were the mattresses.

[Pete J]

Tony

Just a thought. The head board is there for two reasons that I can think of. One is to stop your pillows sliding off the bed and the second is to look good.

We are told that a sprung base substantially lengthens the life of any mattress and keeps it more comfortable for longer.

If you intend that the sides and end of the bed be seen, rather than being covered up by quilt or whatever, it might be an option for you to build a bed and base 'surround'. The mattress and sprung base sit inside the timber surround and are independent of it. The boards which make up the sides and end could be just slightly wider which would disguise the fact that the mattress is sitting on a base, and you wouldn't need all that slatting etc.

Of course this is not an option if you decide you want to fit drawers.

Regards

[Coldamus]

I've been researching bed sizes myself for a future project and gathered the following information from the web site of one of the major bedding retailers. Unfortunately can't remember which one.
King: 6' x 6'8" = 183cm x 204cm
Queen: 5' x 6'8" = 153cm x 204cm
Long Double: 4'6" x 6'8" = 138cm x 204cm
Double: 4'6" x 6'2" = 138cm x 188cm
Wide Single: 3'6" x 6'2" = 104cm x 188cm (3/4 Bed)
King Single: 3'6" x 6'8" = 104cm x 204cm
Long Single: 3' x 6'8" = 90cm x 204cm
Single: 3' x 6'2" = 90cm x 188cm

regards
Col

[namtrak]

I've made a couple of beds recently and have a few tips.

Measure up your mattress first. Sadly there is king size, King Size and KinG size - with so many mattress makers around sizes can vary a bit.

I use 90 by 35 hardwood slats, about half as many as in the photo you have. I use two rolls of 'seatbelt' material stapled to the underneath of the slats and then stretch the slats between lugs on the inside edge of each rail.

I would also consider making the bed demountable - you just need to make sure the fasteners are secure. The one's I use can be seen on most beds in stores. Dont go cheap on this option ( it is only the difference between $5 and $20)

[Kris.Parker1]

I recently built a slat bed. I used only a few slats with about 80mm spacing. I didn't screw down the slats but did something a bit different, I pre-drilled holes and glued small pieces of dowl, they dont move and also allowed springiness.

Cheers

Kris

[Bob Willson]

Bloody good idea Kris. Nice bit of lateral thinking. A greenie for you. :)

[mat]

Some of the commercial slat bases now use what is known as flexi-slats or posture slats. They look like ply with an upward curve that are obvioulsy designed to give some spring as well as support.
If I were building a bed I would try to buy some of these.

[Corcorbear]

I made an excellent bed - copied off a NZ design that was in the shop for $2499 - mine cost $380 - I will try to post a pic on the brag page - definately agree about the slat comments - need some cushion for the pushin...

[i_r_toys]

http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/topics/wood.htm
http://www.medievalwood.org/charles/bedplan.html
http://www.warehamforge.ca/obdpl.jpg
http://www.currentmiddleages.org/tents/osbergbed.PDF
http://www.ravensgard.org/prdunham/Gbed.html

these should give you a varible on bed making... kind of neet, huh????

bill

[mlb]

I've made a couple of beds recently and have a few tips.

Measure up your mattress first. Sadly there is king size, King Size and KinG size - with so many mattress makers around sizes can vary a bit.

I use 90 by 35 hardwood slats, about half as many as in the photo you have. I use two rolls of 'seatbelt' material stapled to the underneath of the slats and then stretch the slats between lugs on the inside edge of each rail.

I would also consider making the bed demountable - you just need to make sure the fasteners are secure. The one's I use can be seen on most beds in stores. Dont go cheap on this option ( it is only the difference between $5 and $20)
I am looking at refurbishing a bed. What fastener do you suggest I use to fasten the side rails to the head & base? Also where might I find these fasteners? I am in WA.

[Bob Willson]

I am looking at refurbishing a bed. What fastener do you suggest I use to fasten the side rails to the head & base? Also where might I find these fasteners? I am in WA.

Try www.timbecon.com.au

[scooter]

Or a hardware shop like Bunnings or Mitre 10.

Apparently there are sets under $10 and sets around $20-$30 - go the dearer ones is the good oil.


Cheers.............Sean, all for footboards ;)

[mlb]

Thanks for the info.

Scooter, I've never seen any fasteners like that in Bunnings. Though I should ask.

Bob Wilson, you are a champ. Found what I was looking on Timbecom website. Heading off this arvo to pick some of the brackets up.

Thanks again.