Pilgrim's progress

[rsser]

G'day guys,

Doing the pilgrimage to the Centre.

So far: Melb - Murray Bridge - Pt Augusta - Coober Pedy - Alice.

Spent a day at Alice Springs Desert Park which knocked our socks off.

The desert trees were usefully labelled; I can only recognise some of them in the post-mortem stage :wink:

The main big trees native to Alice S area are as best I can tell Redgum, Desert Bloodwood and Ghostgums.

Pic 1: Desert Bloodwood - the Arrernte people used the burls to carve coolamon - open ended bowls to carry babies and so on.

Pic 2: Red Mulga

Pic 3: Ghost gum at the old Telegraph station

4. Dead Finish seeds

[Calm]

Great quality photos Ern - enjoy the journey.:2tsup::2tsup:

How long is this to last?

Cheers

[Grumpy John]

Man, I'm so jealous. Been there and wanna go back.

[Mulgabill]

You're not wasting time Ern!!
Let me say I'm very envious.:sigh:

[RETIRED]

Beats snow in my opinion.

I have been to "The Alice" on numerous occasions and actually considered living there.

If you have time and it is still there go to the didgeredo (sp?) concert that is in Todd mall.

A bit different.

It is worth the trip out to Palm Valley and Hermansburg but leave early as the valley can get quite hot.

Usual gorges and things to see and a drive out to Arltunga in the East is worth it in my opinion.

[Mulgabill]

I have been to "The Alice" on numerous occasions and actually considered living there.
Their loss our gain:2tsup:

[Christopha]

Their loss our gain:2tsup:
or vice versa.... ;)

[tea lady]

Must go one day. :sigh: :think: Might pencil it in for next year.:cool:

[rsser]

Back on air now, at Yulara.

Yeah, we're away for 2 months so have time to take it easy and follow our noses.

Thanks for the tips .

We liked the West MacDonnells so much we'll backtrack and go East when we're done here. Arltunga is on the list. Palm Valley would be great but sounds like it's beyond the Foz. We visited most of the gorges nearby and stayed at Glen Helen which is on the Finke upstream of Palm V. We did the rim walk at Kings Canyon and the pool at the Garden of Eden there which has some remnant palms. Dingos were skulking about in the local caravan park but we were clean out of babies.

We drove into Yulara yesterday in a dust storm which turned into a series of thunder and rain storms. The camper got covered inside and out in red sand but there was still water trickling off The Rock this morning. We'll fly over it and the Olgas tomorrow. Today we walked around it and took a squillion pics of Bloodwoods against a sandstone background :- Almost acquired an Aboriginal Mulga club from the local gallery but figured I could practice beads and produce something better at home :p

Pics to come.

[rsser]

G'day guys,

Sitting here after a roast chook and veggies done in a Cobb oven.

In front is a low dune dotted with Honey Grevillias in flower. At the top is a view of the rock.

Been hot and humid. Short but heavy rains. The Aborigines named 3 seasons: the cold, the hot, and the windy. That's what we have now: a couple of months during which the wind blows for days at a time.

Today we flew over the lumps of stone and also Lake Amadeus - that was the stand-out. A 120 km long salt pan.

Some pics below. Hover your mouse over the thumbnail to read the title. These are copyright by the way.

[rsser]

And some more.

[rsser]

According to a flora field guide, Dead Finish got its name as cattle would only eat it when close to starving.

[RETIRED]

Fantastic pics Ern.

[Allan at Wallan]

Enjoy your trip Ern - nice to see some great pics
especially those from the plane.

Have a good time.

Allan

[rsser]

Thanks guys. It's hard not to take good shots up here.

Now passing through Coober Pedy on the way to the Ood. Tk and then Gammon Ranges.

[Grumpy John]

Thanks guys. It's hard not to take good shots up here.

Now passing through Coober Pedy on the way to the Ood. Tk and then Gammon Ranges.

That's just teasing us.
More photos, more photos, more photos, more photos.

[rsser]

Heheh ... soon.

Rolled into Arkaroola yesterday in a dust-storm and with camper electrics trashed. The Anderson plug came adrift on the Oodnadatta Tk, the charging cable shorted on the towbar, the wiring fried and one battery melted spilling acid into the battery box. The sparkie who did the installation didn't believe in fusing the charging circuit cos it restricted the flow of current. That's going to cost him big time. And us; a day to Port Augusta and then hanging around for the repairs. Prob a grand's worth.

Meantime there's prob sand in one of the brake drums and I have to make friends with the village handyman. Can do the job myself if I can borrow a spanner big enough to get the axle nut off.

Well GJ, the village here has wifi so I'll sort some pics and post them later.

The sparkie from Statewide who did the work said he didn't like fuses in the charging circuit cos they robbed too much current.

....

Well it's a different world in the Centre. The local rag headline on one day last week was about tourists taking a dump at the top of the rock when they'd finished their climb.

In Alice the public toilets have attendants who charge you 50c for use; there's nothing for sale on servo forecourts, and many of the shops have grills and bars on the windows and doors. NT has a minister for Alcohol Policy.

Artlunga was a gem . For those who don't know it was the first while settlement in the centre courtesy of a gold find. You can go into a mine up there and poke around the old stone buildings.

Wish I'd had TTIT with me around the Centre to id the desert trees. Bought a field guide but the pics were pretty hopeless.

More later.

[rsser]

K, some pics. Out of order but hover your cursor over the thumb to get the title.

The last pic shows a whopper redgum burl.

Had me thinking .... tow rope long enough to climb the tree? bowsaw long enough ... damn.

[rsser]

And some more.

Pic 2 is a bit hard to make out but it was the remnant of a huge redgum that had burned out, with just half the butt remaining but with new stems from the roots.

[wheelinround]

Ern stop stirring the dust up Sydney is red enough from it already:;

great photo's Ern bet you wish the chainsaw was getting a work out?

[tea lady]

Ern stop stirring the dust up Sydney is red enough from it already:;

great photo's Ern bet you wish the chainsaw was getting a work out?Think if he had a chain saw the cravan would be full of wood by now.:rolleyes:

Great photos Ern. Definately have to go there soon. How about a forum convoy? :cool: Next July? Hubby is going to Ireland. Gotta do something to make hims jealous.:D

[rsser]

Sorry about the dust guys. I'll trot over to the toilet block next time I have to f*rt.

We took the Arkaroola ridgetop tour yesterday; v. spekky. That Pajero ad with the vehicle barrelling up a steep slope to a rocky plateau was shot at Spillers lookout here. The fence around the top was cut down to make it look more remote.

Porche apparently tried to repeat the ad with the Cayenne but it couldn't make it and was towed to the top for the final shot.

We spied a yellow-footed rock wallaby on the way back ... remarkable colouring.

Today starts the work of arranging repairs to the CT. Will learn what it is to negotiate 3 or 4 ways without a mobile phone.

[Allan at Wallan]

Nice to follow your progress Ern.

Would like to be there with you and share the experience.:2tsup:

Allan

[Calm]

Very spectacular photos Ern,:2tsup::2tsup: looks like a great place to mark on the "must go there" list.

Why would you bother going OS when you havent seen that part of our great country. - there is more to Aus than Melb , Syd, Bris etc.

Keep posting the pics Ern, even if it only annoys GJ, Enjoy the trip.

What a great country we live in:2tsup:

Cheers

[rsser]

Hi folks,

A few more pics from Arkaroola just for GJ.

The hot springs are the only known example of volacanic geyser activity in Oz (pics 2 & 3).

They belch an assortment of stuff inc radon. In the 1920s they were used to treat folk with rheumatism etc ('never mind about the the growing lump on your temple dear, you're moving so much more freely'). There's uranium around Mt Painter in the Gammon Range and the Beverly yellow cake mine is on the flats to the East. Douglas Mawson discovered and extracted some radon early last century and in the 40s the Manhattan Project people crawled all over the place but what they took out is still hush hush.

Copper was mined in a minor way too - the round building is a smelter from the late 1800s (pic 1).

And there's a talc mine which supplies about half of Australia's needs.

The Gammon Range has a distinctive form of Mallee, the Curly version - named after the curves in the branches.

Mulga is all over the place and we had a campfire of the stuff. Acc to one guide the species varies widely and that makes it hard to positively identify sometimes. It may in fact comprise several species.

The Sanctuary was set up in the 60s when Reg Sprigg bought the pastoral lease of a marginal sheep farm. One of the conditions of the transfer was that he fence the mountainous section and remove the vermin. Something like 100,000 goats have since been shot or poisoned.

It's a great place if you're interested in geology or astronomy. There are two observatories there.

We were lucky on the weekend as the SA museum were visiting and ran talks, walks and presentations. That's how we learned that tillite (pictured) is formed by glaciers scraping rocks off the side of valleys as they move compressing them into great lumps. They sometimes fall out of icebergs formed in Antactica.

Well we're in Leigh Ck, which is the Moe of SA, waiting for basic repairs to the CT. It's blowing a gale and more dust is heading your way. Tomorrow we head for Wilpena where we have 3 nights of powered sites booked, a different one each night :-{ It's school hols and that's all that was available at short notice. But the CT might have its power back and running on one 100 amphour battery will give us 3 nights independent of the grid.

[Grumpy John]

Great pics Ern, and a good running commentary.
I'm thinking of doing a trek like this when finances allow, and I have a few questions for you.
What level of off road work have you attempted, if any (pics if any pls.), and how did the Foz handle it. The electrical problems, were they operator error, fair wear & tear or poor installation. Are there things you would have done differently, and any places you really wanted to see but couldn't access due to terrain being too rough. How has the camper been, is it a PITA to set up each time and break down when you leave?
Most importantly, how are the mits, do you think you'll be turning like a madman when you get back to the lathe?

I have a heap more questions which I'll get around to when you get back.

[rsser]

Thanks GJ.

Hmm, yes, lots of places to go back to, partic around the Flinders Ranges which are huge. There's lots of bush camping in the northern and central parts which we skipped cos of the electrics. We may get back to the Brachina Gorge area which is just to the north of us in Wilpena.

In the MacDonnells we'd go back to the Ross River area, esp D'Nala Gorge which is full of aboriginal petroglyphs. Also we'd tackle the Ernest Giles dirt road and Hermansberg, and spend some time at Gosses Bluff which is the remnants of a comet impact.

Some maps and local leaflets distinguish between high clearance 4 WD tracks and ordinary tracks so that's been useful in avoiding wasting time. The Foz only has 20cm clearance so big gutters or boulders on tracks become a problem. But there's still plenty of places to go and 4 WD tour operators to go with to access spekky remote sites. If I were heading back and pushing into more remote country a proper 4by would be necessary.

Lekky fault cause? The guy who did the basic repairs up here says he's seen lots of Anderson plugs come loose. The original installation was done by a sparky/mechanic who specialises in offroad and hires offroad camper trailers and should know this I would've thought and install a fuse in the charging circuit.

The plug itself is not the best design; it's a press fit, compared eg with a flat trailer light plug which has a clip.

Operator error is possible with the first separation but once bitten, twice as hard pushed in. She even loosened off over 200k of smooth blacktop so tape and cable ties will be going on when we move again.
...

Wilpena has been cold, windy and rainy but fining up now. There's big areas of grazed grass, redgums and cypress pines ... looks like a golf course. The green hurts the eyes after all the red of the centre.

Pics to come.

Tonight we have some Chrissy pud and brandy butter for desert. Think I'll skip the main course :D

I'm typing this sitting at the Foz tailgate with an inverter driving the laptop using the rear accessory socket. Getting some funny looks. The Telstra 'blue tick' phone has reception, contrary to expectations.

[rsser]

Pics as promised, from in and around Wilpena Pound.

There are some huge redgums here, splayed at the base, which have rotted or burned out leaving just two or three gnarly 'legs'.

Hover your mouse over the thumbnail for the pic title.

..

[rsser]

Hi guys,

Just spent 3 magic days bush camping near Brachina Gorge in the Flinders: by a (dry) river with redgums and cypress pines, black kites circling above during the day and mopokes conversing at night. A campfire to keep warm during the chilly evenings.

We successfully cooked a batch of scones in the Cobb oven, to our surprise and found that UHT cream could be whipped. :2tsup:

Electrical woes continue. The fried charging circuit had fused some of the trailer wiring lights - only evident with the headlights on - so we got that sorted here in Quorn.

Tomorrow we'll spend a day at Port Augusta visiting the Wadlata Outback Centre and the Arid region botanical gardens. Then off to the Barossa Valley and by the time we get to the coast around Robe we'll be down to eating baked beans three times a day and the threat of localised dust storms will send us packing :oo:

[hughie]

Nice one Ern, brings back memories of a trips a I made in the 70's Mt Isa to Perth via the Alice and Sydney to Darwin.
LOML and I have had several conversations re doing a few trips in the bush, too busy at the moment. but the idea is never far from us.

Great Pics :2tsup:

[rsser]

Thanks.

Yeah, it gets under your skin.

We're already planning the next, which will be first to NT and Kakadu and then head W and 'do' WA.

If we win the lottery we'll put the camper trailer on the train to Alice and start from there.

[rsser]

Now at Tanunda. Had high winds and rain overnight. There are flattened tents and annexes in the park. But good coffee is only a walk away.

One of the local coopers is selling staves from used barrels at a buck each - French or American Oak.

Tonight we roast a boned leg of saltbush Hogget.

A Pt Augusta cafe listed on its drinks menu an 'aggregato' . An affogato is an espresso with a scoop of icecream so I guess these guys were offering a scoop of gravel. They breed em tough there :wink:

[hughie]

We're already planning the next, which will be first to NT and Kakadu and then head W and 'do' WA.



Ah you will enjoy the Top End very laid back and some really great spots.Have ago a catching a Barra or two, nothing like fresh Barramundi at night around the fire and few beers

When you get to Perth drive a bit north to lancelin and check out the sand dunes. They shot the movie Rat of Torbruk there apparently. Used go shooting rabbits in the area many years ago.

:2tsup: love the saga updates

[rsser]

Thanks for the tips Hughie. Sound good.

Well we got sick of the poor weather which was forecast to continue so headed NE to Mungo National Park. That's 110 k from Mildura and an interesting spot - site of the oldest known Aboriginal remains. Mungo Man is about 45,000 years old and was 6' 5" tall. He was buried with some ochre scattered around and that must've been traded as there's none in the area. The tribes might have swapped for silcrete for spear heads which is common there.

Our last night was spent on the banks of the Murray - a 'great grey greasy green river', the phrase might have been coined for it - watching Homo Sapiens at play as well as lots of bird life. That was at Merbein Common and allowed us to top up the capuccino level in Mildura.

Now we're back in Melbourne unfortunately, with a big job of repairing, cleaning, sorting and packing ahead.

The camper needs new wheel bearings and paint patching after the rock blasting it's sustained. The sparkie who did the electrics has paid for the running repairs on the road and will now look at the rest.

All up we did 8,000 k with over a thousand of that on the dirt. On driving days we averaged 80 kph including breaks. We found the public dunnies in Vic are the worst of the 3 states visited, that pilgimage camp sites are scenes of the worst behaviour and that about one in two of oncoming drivers in outback SA give a wave. Also that Mallee and Mulga as terms commonly used can mean just about anything. There's even a Mallee Cypress Pine.

And just for GJ again, MORE PICS. Again, hover cursor over the thumbnail for the title.

The sheepshed at Lake Mungo was built in 1869 out of drop-log Cypress. The last engine that drove the shears was a 6.5 hp diesel built in Ballarat.

[artme]

Ern your photos from around Wilpena Pound and Mungo National park stirred up some grea memories for me.

I have also been to Quorn, Parachilna and the Brachina Gorge. Tanunda is a beaut little town but suffers badly in very dry dusty weather.

Great photos mate.

[rsser]

Thanks Artme.

Yeah, it's great country around the Flinders Ranges. And at Mungo we were half a day from Menindie Lakes and Broken Hill. I was keen to go but ...

It was interesting seeing the country that Sidney Kidman built his empire in as I was reading one of his bio's on the trip. Anna Ck station near William Ck is still in Kidman hands and is a mere 24,000 sq km.

[Rookie]

..but I need to ask Ern, So how did the Foz perform?

I know it took a while but still interested in the answer after coming back from Jamieson and Mt Terrible. From the north, not the south, before you ask.

[rsser]

Very well Rookie. Came back with one dashboard squeak and an occasional top-end rattle on cold start-up. Seems to be related to oil level/freshness.

We never had a 'moment' with traction or direction, but that said I only think we tackled one track labelled 4WD Only - the Jack Hayes Rock Hole Tk in the Eastern MacDonnells.

Getting the tyre pressure right helps to make the corrugations bearable and we took a compressor to make the adjustments.

How did you find the dirt roads around Jamieson?

[Rookie]

Performed fine around Jamieson, but I could have let a little more out of the tyres for the descent from Mt Terrible. I had them down to about 26 but could have dropped a couple more pounds off. Felt a little slip in a couple of the steeper parts. Still getting used to this real 4WD stuff as opposed to going into scrubby fishing spots. Had sister and brother in law with me in their Land Cruiser making sure I didn't get into strife. Didn't need them :)

[rsser]

Magic.

FWIW for towing a rear window protector is often recommended cos stones kicked back can trash yours and ruin your day.

We got some Coreflute from a signwriter. It's like corrugated cardboard sandwich but in PVC.

Cut it to shape and fitted it to the rear window with generous strips of 2" wide super grippy double sided sticky velcro from Bunnies. Then sealed all round with duct tape cos it touched at one point and if sand gets in it will abrade the window.

Worked a treat.

[Buzza]

Well you're safe from dingoes below Coober Pedy. I used Kingston Cream biscuits to fight them off at my camp sites whener I was up that way. :D

Tighten up all of your loose fitting before you get out onto the Odd Trck. :oo:

[rsser]

Just been rereading the thread and maybe another comment or two is worth making.

While I'd done two shake-down cruises with the rig on my own, this was the first outing with my partner Helen. And while I'm not worried about roughing it on my own, of course the trip has to work for both. At home there's lots of space but travelling you're rubbing shoulders every day.

As it worked out, she enjoyed herself, helped by waking up on day 2 to seeing Pelicans cruising down the Murray, her favorite bird, and again on the last day at Merbein Common on the Murray.

She was also a great help in the prep for the trip and with the setup of camp and camp housekeeping. Best of all she enjoyed getting out there seeing the sights and doing some rough day walks. That was one of the most rewarding things about the trip for me.