oland tool

[Daddy3x]

Got 1" steel bar, inserts and wood for handle. Bar is drilled, beveled, tapped, and has a 1/2" turned tang at the other end to insert into a maple handle I will be turning this evening. With a hole drilled in the handle just a smidgin over steel diameter, will epoxy hold it for good? Any other ideas worth looking into?
Scott

[bellyup]

G'day Scott,
Good for you making your own tools. I made a scraper a while back which also doubles as a great deep hollowing tool similar to what you 're attempting.
I wish I knew how to do one of those "here" thingies - I'm always impressed with those - if you do a search for tools or scrapers you should come across mine, there are photos etc. If that helps then I'm glad.
Show us when you finish.
Bruce.

[Texian]

Scott,
Depending upon what drill was used for the hole, you may find that a 1/2" dia rod/bar is some degree of press fit in the hole, and will be fine just by assembling the press fit. If the two pieces slide together unforced, then epoxy would be the assembly lube of choice.

[Daddy3x]

Thanks. Unfortunately, the steel is jast a tad too tight, I may try to step up a bit or perhaps ream out the hole slightly. Coarse sandpaper on a dowel may just do it. Is a ferrule that critical?

I just tried the tool unhandled because of my impatience. I ground a tool bit 45 degrees on the front and carried it slightly around the corners. Is the tool intended to be used more straight in? I had a devil of a time avoiding catches. I decided to quit while I was ahead.

[Daddy3x]

Pics back really quick. I just ground this based on what I saw and read, any suggestions? A local metal worker just gave me the bar and half a dozen bits, this being the largest. The overall length is about 18", business end about 15 or so.

[Texian]

Can not help with grind or use of the tool. Mine (also home made) is ground at about 75 degree included angle.

So the tang is about 3" long and maybe should slide about half way into the hole without forcing. Would help to know the actual tang diameter and drill size that you used. The easy way would be to just drill 1/64" (.015") over and epoxy. The ferrule is probably not critical but looks good, helps avoid splitting the handle if you have a press fit, and helps absorb stress on the handle in heavy going.

[DJ’s Timber]

Can't really help in regards to bevel angles, suggest you do a search via the Advance Forum Search for posts by Hughie using Ripsnorter as the search word, as he makes these tools here and has put up info about them.

As for the Ferrule, yes it is a must, it goes along way to preventing the timber handle from splitting

[bellyup]

You might find you get less catches if you angle the cutter at 45 deg. to the work instead of putting the blade horizontally, ie if you were hollowing the side then the side of the blade closest to you should be lower than the back. Hope that makes sense.
Bruce

[Daddy3x]

So I understand correctly, get more bevel support? I am envisioning a peeling type action. I think I saw a vid of it being used on long grain and it appeared to be used like that.

[bellyup]

Yep, that's what I would try. Also the point of your second photo looks pretty aggresive,a more progresive taper might work better.

[TTIT]

Pics back really quick. I just ground this based on what I saw and read, any suggestions? A local metal worker just gave me the bar and half a dozen bits, this being the largest. The overall length is about 18", business end about 15 or so.Personally I like them more rounded on the end so you're not always cutting the full width of the tip and a much lower angle which seems to reduce the severity of catches if nothing else. Just my 2 bobs worth :shrug: As Bellyup said, rolling the tip to about 45 degrees will also reduce catches and give you a much smoother finish.

[Daddy3x]

Thanks all. I think I understand what to try. To tame this thing try making more of a radius on pic 1 from above. Change bevel angle to something steeper and less aggressive, perhaps 60-65 degrees on pic 2. I got the handle thing figured out thanks.

After confirming the above, I will get some small chunks of green log and take a couple of hours on a test drive into both long and end grain.

[hughie]

Basically the more acute the angle the more aggressive the cut and with that you have a greater likelihood of a catch.Plus the tip/cutting edge wont last at long either.

Consider 5 0r 10 degrees off 90 as an angle, this will allow you far more control and less likelihood of a catch.

When these tools catch it can be a real beauty :oo: :U A bit of a cardio work out. Work up to the more acute angles as your experience grows. I often use very acute angles on green timber, but I have been these tools for several years but still get the odd catch.

[Daddy3x]

I will blunt it up a bit, round it a bit and have another crack at it. I did get some catches, and they got my attention very quickly. However, I did not have the handle on the tool yet, and when I did get a cutting action going, it was rather awesome.Will post final pic, got to scrounge up a piece of copper cut off for the ferrule. I do appreciate everyone's tips, insight and humor...and most importantly patience with a newbie.
Scott

[NeilS]

This (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=85943&highlight=Ripsnorter&page=7) thread has my profile at post #98

I use mine horizontally across the inside bottoms and then roll over a little as I start to come up the sides.

.

[Daddy3x]

JB Welded the handle in yesterday and just now took it for a spin. Ended up just shy of 30" overall. All I know is that I can think of one bowl gouge that is going to get pretty lonely around here. That is one awesome tool. Never made a tool before, and it is quite satisfying to do, especially when it performs as well as it does (further yet into the vortex). Regrinding to 80 degree'ish made all the difference. Thanks again to all for the help and ideas. You all are a great group of people :2tsup:

Back to my metal source next week to get 2 more bars...

Scott

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Nicely done. :2tsup:

I'm a great fan of oland style tools, too. I've made a few myself and have bought a few off other people to add to my collection. :)

You'll find that with practice they can hog out very, very quickly, then after a quick touch up on the wheel they can also make fine finishing cuts.

If I could part off with one, I probably wouldn't have anything else in my tool rack. :innocent: