Mitre saw bench

[groeneaj]

Hi there,
I have just made a mitre saw table for my recently purchased makita ls1214. I am now just about to make the fence for the table, however i am not sure where to place the saw on the table.
Bench is 2280x800
My options are:
1. Place the saw in the centre, hence having equal fence length on either side
2. Place it on the right end so i can do repetitve cuts on longer stock using a stop (note if i need to make a cut that will require the need for more room on right side of bench I would just make a cut next to the exact cut line) therefore it will sit nicely on bench/fence

Not sure if i explained myself correctly here.

Andy.

[LanceC]

Hi Andy,

I have the same saw as you, and would be interested in having a look at your bench so far.

Xfigio.

[VernJ]

Hi Andy, I'm also interested in your table (and envious, LS1214 looks like awesome kit). I have the Ryobi equilivent (not meaning equal). It is amasingly accutate/repeatable but it scares the hell out of me for fine work. It desperately needs a better clamping and fence system.

Look forward to some pictures or info please ... cheers

[groeneaj]

Hey,
I will go take some photos later today and post them up tonight.
Im also making a box for the rear of the saw to hopefully collect some of the dust that my dust vac doesn't.
Its only a very basic table but very stable.

Andy.

[groeneaj]

Here are the photos, nothing special, but I was keen to use materials lying around the garage rather than purchasing it.

As I said I am making a dust box for the rear of the saw. I am going to drill a circle to feed my shop vac too. However not sure whether to drill it at base of box, or at the rear, any comments on that would be great. I saw one on the net Google Image Result for http://www.woodworkingmatters.com/images/My_Shop/Miter_Saw_Station_Mk_II_11.jpg (http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.woodworkingmatters.com/images/My_Shop/Miter_Saw_Station_Mk_II_11.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.woodworkingmatters.com/My_Shop/sliding_compound_miter_saw_works.htm&usg=__ErO2tjTIRpnKysV0vLwmwcDGzUA=&h=756&w=831&sz=288&hl=en&start=8&tbnid=Vc9OkjTQmk-0wM:&tbnh=131&tbnw=144&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmitre%2Bsaw%2Btable%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den) which I am sort of going off.

Also the pics I have posted are the 2 different positions I am considering placing the saw. I am leaning towards having the saw on the end due to the fact I can then do repetitive cuts with longer stock. And if i have to cut longer stock I can always cut next to my cut line, then it will make whatever I am cutting easier to do repetitive cut.
Can anyone see an issue of doing this?
Also note my dust extractor at the bottom of pic, I'll be cutting a hole to place it in so it sits nice and firm in place and not sag over like it is in the pic.

Also for anyone curious I paid $855 for the LS1214. Bunnings price matched sydney tools who were selling them for $950.

Andy.

[munruben]

If you are going to be cutting long pieces then the end of the table would be preferable. Nice saw:2tsup:

[groeneaj]

You dont see me limited in other cutting applications if I was to do this method?

Andy.

[stevemc32]

It's a bit of a toss-up I reckon.

If all you'll ever do is trim the ends off long pieces then it should go at the end of the table but if you plan to cut sizable lengths from longer stock then more towards the centre would be my choice. At least then you can provide support for both pieces once the cut is done. :wink:

[groeneaj]

I think I might go 3/4 of the way to the right, and still build a fence on the right of the saw, obviouslly a bit smaller than the left side.
I was going to put shelves in today but I felt sick due to breathing in the MDF I was cutting. I had a dust mask on and a fan to blow the excess away.
Think I might look into a air purifier, as this is not the first time it has happended.

Andy.

[Ekim]

Andy,

See this month's edition of Australian Woodsmith for free plans to build a sled and fence for a mitre saw. The design of the sled makes it easy to move your mitre saw to what ever position you want (in the middle, on the right hand side etc )

See the front cover of the magazine here: Welcome to Australian Woodsmith (http://www.australianwoodsmith.com.au/) (top right hand corner).

The magazine is on sale at my local Bunnings.

HTH

MIke

[groeneaj]

Funny that, I am a subscriber to the mag. The mag came in last week and I did breiefly see the plans, I didn't even think about making a similar one.
Might get it and see what I can come up with, thanks mate

Andy !!:2tsup:

[mart1986]

i have a idea why dont you make runners in the middle and at both ends of the table then your not limted.

[artme]

i have a idea why dont you make runners in the middle and at both ends of the table then your not limted.

Was about to say much the same thing. That's why several machines of mine are on castors.

[Expat]

I know it's probably a bit late but you might want to take advantage of the door to the right in the photo and place the saw at the other end of the table. If you have a particularly long piece of stock to cut you can just run it out the door on a roller guide. That's what I'm doing with my mitre station although I'm allowing 6ft to the left and 4ft to the right on my table with longer stock going out the door to the right.

[VernJ]

I know it's probably a bit late but you might want to take advantage of the door to the right in the photo and place the saw at the other end of the table. If you have a particularly long piece of stock to cut you can just run it out the door on a roller guide. That's what I'm doing with my mitre station although I'm allowing 6ft to the left and 4ft to the right on my table with longer stock going out the door to the right.

Yep sure is something to think about, my Ryobi only clamps on the left, so it's a "no brain’er" on the off-set on my bench. Mostly, long stock for me is 6m lengths of Aluminum tube for my wind chimes. As it happens I invested heaps in really good lockable castors when I originally built my table (using our old kitchen bench top and cupboards) ... so me and the table migrate to one corner of the (9mx6m) shed when I start a new length. Really really handy

[justinmcf]

i agree with expat.

keep your saw on the right hand side of your bench.

you can always open up your garage door and use a roller stand for really long lengths of timber.

it also means you can maximize your bench space.

regards, justin.

[Expat]

I should add that the mitre saw station was originally going to be another mobile unit in my shop but I decided that maybe it was a good thing to mount it permanently on the wall. It'll cut down on the "traffic" in there what with the mobile work centre, mobile sanding station and the mobile planer stand/storage.
The design that you see in the image I posted is a little different to what many of these units are like in that you can move the whole saw/fence assembly out from the wall by loosening four bolts. This will give me an extra 10" of space when the saw is not in use to store the car if needed or just elbow room for working in the shop. When it's pulled away from the wall the fence face is 2" out from the garage door opening so long stock can go out the door. Even with the garage door closed I still have 78" clearance to the door.
All the ply for the fixed and sliding base will be 3/4" Baltic Birch. The fence back will be 3/4" mdf. The frame and fence faces will be 3/4" hard maple. Saw is a King Canada 12" DCSMS with a Ridge Carbide -5deg hook atb blade that I love to death!

[gmack]

I too have the same problem.:((
I decided that the best place for the saw was in the middle.:)

I have been working on designing my own saw base for a little while.
Mine has to be on wheels and must be collapsable,:rolleyes:
I share the garage with SWMBO's car.:D
My design is not quite finalised as yet, I am trying to come up with a
a more robust design for the positive locking of the support
brace underneath each wing.
Please feel free to ask any questions or to offer any comments.:2tsup::2tsup:

Regards
Glenn