Wipe-on Poly?

[bellyup]

Mornin' All,
I would like your advice on finishing bottle stops.
I have been asked to produce 250 redgum with coolibah burl bottle stops for corporate gifts. I've never done a production run like this.
Normally I would turn them off, sand to 1200 grit and then use EEE and Glow - they would look pretty good. The problem with that is the finish is not water resistant (as I found out when I left one in a water spill on the kitchen table) and I dont think there is enough time to sand 250 stops to 1200 grit.
Yesterday I tried sanding to 400( cloth backed paper) then 0000 steel wool and finishing with shelac, the end result was just ok, the wood showed open grain and the finish didn't thrill me.
I was thinking that wipe-on poly might be a durable and efficient finish, though I have never used it.
What do you reckon? Is it any good and where do you get it? Your advice is appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Bruce.

[Texian]

Bruce, have read that one turner's version is simply regular poly diluted 50% with mineral spirits. Do you get Minwax products there? They may have one intended for wipe-on use. I use a coat of lacquer-based sanding sealer followed by several coats of spray lacquer. Let cure a day or three and buff. Do not wax with carnauba, as have read that it shows water spots in a big way.

[bellyup]

Thanks Richard,
I'm not sure about getting Minwax stuff here. I do have a spray gun but I'm not sure how to do 250 stoppers the size of champagne corks or how to dry them :no:
I'm all ears if anyone can point me in the right direction.
Again, thanks.
Bruce.

[Ed Reiss]

Never tried it myself, but CA might do the trick.

[TTIT]

Bunnings carry the Minwax wipe-on poly and I reckon the gloss version would suit your needs nicely although I prefer to use the satin finish and buff it if I want a glossy look :shrug:

[bellyup]

Thanks Vern,
The Minister of War and Finance will be down in Mildura next week-end so I'll get her to pick up one of each of the Minwax. No Bunnies here - alas.

[Texian]

Bunnings carry the Minwax wipe-on poly and I reckon the gloss version would suit your needs nicely although I prefer to use the satin finish and buff it if I want a glossy look :shrug:

That sounds like a better answer. I use the spray can lacquer, but it's a bit pricey and would cost a small fortune to do 250 stoppers. Have seen some beautiful finishes with the poly, and it should be durable.

[tea lady]

I reckon the wipe on polly would be the go, but I though it wasn't being sold at Bunnings anymore. Don't quote me on thaat. :shrug: Maybe you could look on hteir web sight or give 'em a ring. Failing that, there is recipes around for it. I think its 1/3 polly varnish (in gloss level you want. ), 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 turps. Better ask Wongo about it though. I can't quite remember. And where you get the tung oil could be tricky too. :doh:

[Claw Hama]

I saw the wipe on poly in Bumblings the other day so should still be there, otherwise like TL said 1/3 Estapol/ poly, 1/3 turps, 1/3 oil of your choice. I did a batch with 1/6 tung1/6 linseed also threw in a bit of Teribine to speed things up a bit, I'm always in a hurry for the finish to dry, has a beautiful lustery finish. You would probably get away with a couple of coats of 50/50 poly and turps.

[munruben]

Still in my local Bunnings.

[tea lady]

Still in my local Bunnings.:2tsup: Ah well! There you go.:cool:

[funkychicken]

I reckon you're not using Glow right if it's not water resistant.

*Dunks Glowed awl handle in water to check*

Yup, I'm right

[Ben from Vic.]

I think that the wipe on poly is thinned poly, where the other mixes containing oil are more of a dainish oil finish, kinda like the sam maloof finish.

[tea lady]

Could also just dip them in epoxy or something.:shrug: Are you sick of turning bottle stoppers yet.:rolleyes::D

[Ray153]

Just curious how long you waited after testing your awl?

I too have experienced some minor blotching/lifting on a shellawax finish similar to a heat/water ring I have seen on some dining tables

If I had to guess, the water was on my finished surface somewhere between 15-45 minutes before I noticed it. From memory, the finish had been on the piece for some 6 months or so before it got wet.

But I guess that you are just going to assume that I also have applied the finish wrongly without much of a basis on which to form that assumption.

As for how to apply whichever finish is decided on in the end, and I would go with the wipe on miniwax, I would think that applying the finish prior to gluing the stopper onto the wooden part would be the way to go and I would get a bit of MDF and drill umpteen holes to fit 6mm dowels into that you could just drop the newly finished wood onto for dtying. It would look like a weird quoits board or one of those games you see at Shows that you have to throw a ring over to win a prize


I reckon you're not using Glow right if it's not water resistant.

*Dunks Glowed awl handle in water to check*

Yup, I'm right