The essential tools for your type of turning

[NeilS]

This is "if you could only have a three or four tools for the type of turning you do" sort of topic.

The topic could have also been called:

'If I could only take 3 turning tools' or
'Just my favourite tools' or
'If I lost all my tools, what would I just have to buy first' or
'If I could go back & know what I know now which tools....'
But, it's not a starters tool kit topic. It's more like this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/turning-tools-just-my-favourites-only-47789/) that Cliff ran a few years back, but it might be useful to have a fresh look at it. You get the idea

So, specify your turning type/job (eg platters) and indicate the minimal number of turning tools essential to complete the job.

If you like (but only if it suites you), put all your tools away & start a job of the type that you would normally do most. As you get a tool out to use it, put it aside, don't put it back. When you are finished, post a pic of the completed item & the tools you used & explain anything special about them.

Over to everyone.

Thanks to Cliff who was the inspiration for this thread (and most of the above are his words).

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[jefferson]

Alright, I'll start then:

CHISELS FOR MAKING SIMPLE BOXES

Roughing gouge
Parting tool
3/8 bowl gouge to shape box base and lid
1/2 L & S spindle gouge to hollow
Sorby multi-tip to finish hollowing (undercut etc)
Ci0 to scrape inside smooth
Square skew to cut base and lid fit, and decorate rings on the underside of the base.

That's 7 already. If I was decorating the lid, I'd probably use a mini parting tool to cut the beads.

If the box was flat on the inside, I'd definity use the Ci1 the scrape square (or another scraper.)

That's 8 or 9.

If the jam fit for the base wasn't great, I'd use a 6mm bowl or spindle gouge to take fine cuts on the underside. That's 10.

And that's just for simple boxes.

If someone can do it with less, talk to me! :wink: I could scrape most of it, but the 8mm bowl gouge gives me a terrific "off the tool" finish.

No mention either about chucks, drills, etc.










Neil,

I've already half-responded to this one for tools for turning lidded boxes.

I will post some pics (and more thoughts) soon. Maybe next week.

But my forester brother Dave has dropped maybe 200 trees here (most only 5 years old, thinning) and I have much cleaning up to do with the mulcher. Plus some big stuff for firewood for next winter.

Plus..... Cutting some redgum for Cliff and Ed.... Plus new doors and windows for the old dump starting tomorrow....

Plus, 4 hallway tables to finish (one for me) the rest for Indigo Valley, still yet to post.

Plus Calm ringing yesterday and sending me pics on how he stuffed up a simple high chair.... Wood moves, some of the Slow and Calm ones need to learn that one.... :D:D:D

I'm retired, but geez, life is just too busy. :wink:

's place this Sat, it never ends. :D:D:D

Off the smokes for 7 days, probably cranky soon. A 30 year old habit is hard to break.

[RETIRED]

Will I? nah.

[Cliff Rogers]

Will I? nah.
Will you what?
Give up the smokes too? :rolleyes: :p
Or tell us that you only use a Henry Taylor HS1 & a home made skew to do everything? :D

[RETIRED]

Hmmm, maybe I will.





Later.

[funkychicken]

I make tools and occasionally pens, I wouldn't be without my 1" Roughing gouge, 1" skew and a 1/2" spindle gouge

[tea lady]

I do mostly bowls. I could prolly get away with a 5/8 bowl gouge and a skew (used as a scraper to do the foot tenon. And to maybe smooth out the outside curve. :D ) Cos I can have three I'll have a round nosed scraper to so I can smooth out the inner curve as well. :cool:

I'm n the middle of a bowl I will prolly finish tmmorow, so will take pics then.:cool:

[NeilS]

..............

I'm retired, but geez, life is just too busy. :wink:...............

...........Off the smokes for 7 days, probably cranky soon. A 30 year old habit is hard to break.



Yep, retired but busy. At least we get to do more of what we want to, well mostly.

Good on ya for kicking the fags...:2tsup:... you're almost over the hard bit!

....

[NeilS]

Will I? nah.

If you were thinking about telling us about all the things you can do with just a skew, we sort of knew that...... :U

But, if you meant that you are thinking about giving up the fags, well that's very good news.... Go , Go...:2tsup:

....

[tea lady]

But, if you meant that you are thinking about giving up the fags, well that's very good news.... Go , Go...:2tsup:

....:oo: :rofl: :rolleyes: (Although giving up the tea might be the harder call. :think: )(:run: )

[orraloon]

If I tried I could get by with 4. 3 is a bit of an ask but if the wood was nice with no tareout then perhaps. My 4 would be a 1'' roughing gouge a 5/8 bowl gouge a parting tool and a 1/2 round nose scraper. I guess we all are guilty of using too many tools and not getting the best use from any of them.
Regards
John

[thefixer]

If I had to I could get by without my roughing gouge because that is all it is good for. A good bowl gouge can be used for roughing and hollowing. That covers bowls and platters.
For goblets I can't get by without my home made oland style tool with the depth limiter. For spindles I would definately need a nice accutely ground spindle gouge and then to finish it all off a parting tool and a keepers glove is absolutely essential. That covers the four basic tools I would need to achieve most aspects of turning. I.E bowls, platters, and spindles. Once you get into deep hollowing that is another issue again.

Cheers
Shorty

[Rum Pig]

I think if I could only 4 tools they would be
Bowl gouge
Skew
Bench grinder
Stubby holder.

I mainly turn pens and bowls so I can use the bowl gouge for 90% of the turning it might be a bit slower but you can do it.
The Skew chisel I could use for finishing cut and scraping, parting tool.
The grinder apart from being able to sharpen my limited tools I can also modify them to suit my needs for example I could put a radius on the skew to use as a round scraper.
Stubby holder well if you do not know what this is for come to Darwin and I will give you a personal lesson:D

[hughie]

If I was stuck, then, gouges.


A good quality roughing gouge say 20mm or 25mm



a 12mm " perhaps a super flute



finally a 10mm or 3/8 U gouge

[bookend]

Does a chuck count as a tool?:?

What about a drill and screws?:rolleyes:

[NeilS]

Does a chuck count as a tool?:?

What about a drill and screws?:rolleyes:

Graeme - Let's call those equipment (for the purpose of this thread) and the sharp things you hold in your hand as you turn the tools...:U

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[tea lady]

The tools.:cool:

118444

The bowls.:cool:

Red Gum. 235mm diameter. Sanded to 400#. Finished with Shithot wax.

118449
118450

Ebonized Tassie Oak. (Using Liquid Nightmare.) 245mm diameter. Sanded to 400#. Ebonizing rubbed on. The finished with Shithot wax. (Underneath not quite finished. Need to make use of 's Cole jaws.:C )

118445
118446
118447

[jefferson]

Tea Lady,

You've got to go finer than 400 grit! :wink:

Indigo Valley and I have been doing a protype of a hallway table - and we are down to 1200 grit and it still needs more. Red box top with 30mm redgum edges..... Down to 2000 next week.

Nice turning BTW. :2tsup:

PS Can you make a cake that has some nicotine in it? Off the fags for a week and a half but struggling a little.....

[tea lady]

Tea Lady,

You've got to go finer than 400 grit! :wink:

Indigo Valley and I have been doing a protype of a hallway table - and we are down to 1200 grit and it still needs more. Red box top with 30mm redgum edges..... Down to 2000 next week.

Nice turning BTW. :2tsup:

PS Can you make a cake that has some nicotine in it? Off the fags for a week and a half but struggling a little.....NO! And no standing close to Robbop on Saturday breathing deeply. :((:p

Finer eh! :rolleyes: I was still having trouble getting the wax to go in. Could I hit it with a hair drier do you think, to melt it a bit more. I can't generate enough heat or pressure or something. :C

[jefferson]

Tea Lady,

If I get too close to and his smokes, please drag me away..... Day 9 or 10 now without one, but the patches and lozenges are making it easier.

Now what's this problem with the wax?

EEE then Shellawax or Glow at max speed and you should have no problems. Some of the other wax treatments seem harder (to me anyway).

I think (and am hoping) that DJ comes down on Sat. He really knows all about Glow, so please pay me a fee when DJ does the demo..... :D:D Calm too. More money.... :D:D:D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Now what's this problem with the wax?

EEE then Shellawax or Glow at max speed and you should have no problems. Some of the other wax treatments seem harder (to me anyway)

I think TL was talking about waxy wax, as in beeswax/carnauba and not the runny stuff. You know, the Ubeaut Shithot Waxstik type of wax... such as she included in her photo. :rolleyes::wink:


Finer eh! :rolleyes: I was still having trouble getting the wax to go in. Could I hit it with a hair drier do you think, to melt it a bit more. I can't generate enough heat or pressure or something. :C

What type of rags are you using, TL? I find that many synthetics just aren't suitable for a good friction finish & give me grief. Fine for polishing, but no good for actually applying the finish. Old linen really is the best for that.

[tea lady]

What type of rags are you using, TL? I find that many synthetics just aren't suitable for a good friction finish & give me grief. Fine for polishing, but no good for actually applying the finish. Old linen really is the best for that.
So an old purple tee shirt isn't the best? :think: By old linen do you mean old cotton sheets, or proper linen as in my nana's table cloths.:?

[TTIT]

So an old purple tee shirt isn't the best? :think: By old linen do you mean old cotton sheets, or proper linen as in my nana's table cloths.:?Wouldn't know one material from another but I swear by old flanny sheets for all my polishing/waxing jobs :2tsup:. T-shirt material is no good for anything much - seems to resist wetting - must have some sort of synthetic crud in it :shrug:

[Calm]

So an old purple tee shirt isn't the best? :think: By old linen do you mean old cotton sheets, or proper linen as in my nana's table cloths.:?

There seems to be a PURPLE theme to your workshop TL.

I use an old towel (i have plenty of them) for eee but for glow or traditional wax i use an old flannelette shirt or as Vern said a flannelette sheet. (dont have many of them - thats why the towel for EEE)

As for tools for a bowl i could just use a 3/8 Henry Taylor bowl gouge and a 1 inch Henry Taylor skew (for the tenon or recess) for the chuck but normally i rough it out with a 1/2 Henry Taylor bowl gouge first.(only use the 1/2 inch for speed of operation)

So for Bowls probably only 2 tools for platters probably add a 1 1/4 inch Scraper or the CI0

For spindles a roughing gouge and and a 3/8 Henry Taylor spindle gouge. Of course a parting tool as well - sometimes a skew but rarely.

Cheers

[NeilS]

Ebonized Tassie Oak. (Using Liquid Nightmare.) 245mm diameter. Sanded to 400#. Ebonizing rubbed on. The finished with Shithot wax. (Underneath not quite finished. Need to make use of 's Cole jaws.:C )



Good to see a decent foot on a bowl...:2tsup:

Hope you are not going to use the Cole jaws to remove it...:rolleyes:

As for #400, I rarely go beyond it for regular gallery pieces, but I do power sand which gives a finer abrasion than hand sanding (for any given grit size) provided it is used at full speed (both lathe and sanding disk) and with a very light hand. And, a fresh #400 disk and a previously used #400 disk are effectively two grit grades...:U.

I sometimes go up to #800 on exhibition pieces, but I'm not always convinced that it makes a significant difference on my work which is usually medium to larger bowls and forms. If I turned finer and more delicate work like the WWW it may be different.

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[NeilS]

Old linen really is the best for that.

Yes, old pure cotton sheets and pillow slips work well. Ex-hospital/hotel/prison linen is extra good...:U. Also, real linen tea towels and serviettes.

.....

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Cottom/flannel bed linen is easier to come by, but proper flaxen linen works well too.

If you can pry it out of Grandma's hands. :innocent:

T-shirts... as Vern said, they ain't good for finishing. Except, maybe, for applying oils.

And to get back on-topic, what I consider "essential" depends entirely on the job I'm doing. :think: I can finish a piece from Go to Whoa using just an Oland-style tool, or just a bullnosed scraper or just my 3/8" or 1/2" bowl gouge. I rarely stick to just one tool though, as although they'll usually suffice to do the whole job there are usually cuts they won't do well. Then I'll temporarily switch to a tool that's better suited for that part, which is usually one of the other tools in the above list. :;

A roughing gouge speeds things along nicely though, so I guess I'd have to include that, too...

[tea lady]

Good to see a decent foot on a bowl...:2tsup:

Hope you are not going to use the Cole jaws to remove it...:rolleyes:

As for #400, I rarely go beyond it for regular gallery pieces, but I do power sand which gives a finer abrasion than hand sanding (for any given grit size) provided it is used at full speed (both lathe and sanding disk) and with a very light hand. And, a fresh #400 disk and a previously used #400 disk are effectively two grit grades...:U.

I sometimes go up to #800 on exhibition pieces, but I'm not always convinced that it makes a significant difference on my work which is usually medium to larger bowls and forms. If I turned finer and more delicate work like the WWW it may be different.

..... I reckon it depends on the wood. On denser woods you might be able to tell you went finer. A bit like pixel size. Pointless have a high res image on a low res screen. :shrug: If the grain only gooes down to a certain density, then a finer grit won't do much apart from filling the grain with saw dust. Wasn't there talk of not sanding pine down past 240# cos it just fills the grain and the finish doesn't go in well. :think:

[NeilS]

I reckon it depends on the wood. On denser woods you might be able to tell you went finer. A bit like pixel size. Pointless have a high res image on a low res screen. :shrug: If the grain only gooes down to a certain density, then a finer grit won't do much apart from filling the grain with saw dust.

Yes, good point TL.

Now that I thinks about it, I tend to keep the denser desert woods for my exhibition pieces and by default they tend to get the #600 to #800 treatment...:roll:

.....

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

As has been mentioned before, it's a good idea idea to stop the lathe after each grit and do a bit of hand-sanding along the grain before moving on to the next finer grit.

This gives you a better finish overall and I've found that I can stop sanding at a coarser grit than I would otherwise. I tend to reserve my grits from 800 and up for sanding finished timber, rather than raw nowadays. eg. when knocking back a coat of Danish for the next coat.

[Cliff Rogers]

Hey TL, good see that P&N gouge with some dust on it, it looks like it has a '' profile on it now. :2tsup:

[NeilS]

Having started this thread, guess I should add my bit.


Just for fun.... the least number of tools I've used to complete a bowl (Pic 1) was:
5/8" bowl gouge with swept back wings - to turn and to scrape inside
Kanna blade (Pic 2 - hand-forged blades for Japanese planes) - to detail around lip and foot, and to scrape the outside of bowl to a polish that was then finished with a coat of thin wax polish (no sanding).
Of course, that was just an experiment. More typically the tools I use to complete a seasoned bowl are:
5/8" bowl gouge with swept back wings - to do most of the turning
1/4" parting tool - used as a bedan in and around foot
3/16" detail gouge (with same profile used by David Ellsworth on his 3/8" spindle gouge, shown here (http://www.woodcentral.com/newforum/grinds.shtml)) - to roll beads if bowl has them
Curved skew - to create dovetail in foot, to cut detail in and around foot and lip, and to scrape the bowl.
Having said that, I can't help myself playing around with my various other tools that could be used to do the job, partly to stop the boredom and partly to keep my hand in with them. They sort of cycle in and out of favour for a while, but the above tools are my essential bowl turning tools... well, for now... :U

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[Manuka Jock]

Beautiful bowl Neil ,
the bark makes it :2tsup:

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f8/118741d1255254621t-essential-tools-your-type-turning-14in-jacaranda.jpg (http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f8/118741d1255254621-essential-tools-your-type-turning-14in-jacaranda.jpg)

[jefferson]

Having started this thread, guess I should add my bit.



Just for fun.... the least number of tools I've used to complete a bowl (Pic 1) was:
5/8" bowl gouge with swept back wings - to turn and to scrape inside
Kanna blade (Pic 2 - hand-forged blades for Japanese planes) - to detail around lip and foot, and to scrape the outside of bowl to a polish that was then finished with a coat of thin wax polish (no sanding).
Of course, that was just an experiment. More typically the tools I use to complete a seasoned bowl are:
5/8" bowl gouge with swept back wings - to do most of the turning
1/4" parting tool - used as a bedan in and around foot
3/16" detail gouge (with same profile used by David Ellsworth on his 3/8" spindle gouge, shown here (http://www.woodcentral.com/newforum/grinds.shtml)) - to roll beads if bowl has them
Curved skew - to create dovetail in foot, to cut detail in and around foot and lip, and to scrape the bowl.
Having said that, I can't help myself playing around with my various other tools that could be used to do the job, partly to stop the boredom and partly to keep my hand in with them. They sort of cycle in and out of favour for a while, but the above tools are my essential bowl turning tools... well, for now... :U

.....

Alright, Neil.

I think we know you can turn bowls and platters..... :D:D:D:D

But what tools do you use for boxes etc? And hollow forms? Easy questions I know, but everyone keeps telling me not to buy more tools...... (Both hands up in the air, they are no fun - where's the Smilie?)

[tea lady]

Exactly how many kanna blades Neil? :rolleyes: :D ( once brought out a scraper to tame a particularly recalcitrant bit of grain on something I was struggling with once. The kind of tool I'd use to smooth out a curve in a pottery bowl. :cool: )

[NeilS]

... what tools do you use for boxes etc?



Jeff - I don't do boxes very often, and those that I do make tend to be small bowls with lids...:U


And hollow forms? Easy questions I know, but everyone keeps telling me not to buy more tools...... (Both hands up in the air, they are no fun - where's the Smilie?)

I think I've tried every style of tool devised so far for hollowing and, although they have slightly different characteristics, I can't say that I find any one that stands out as the best for me. The one that has had the least use is an early Woodcut Pro that I never became very friendly with (must go back a get reacquainted with it). Currently I'm using Hughie's Ripsnorter quite a lot for deeper hollow forms... my only tool that comfortably handles the inside bottom of a 12"+ deep forms. That's a lot of toolrest overhang!

And, forstner bits are a useful way to get the hollowing underway.

If you have the loot, and enjoy the acquisition, sure, get a few different hollowing tool types. What do they say, he who dies with the most tools....:U. But, as always, get proficient with whichever tool you select to begin with and then you will be in a better position to decide how the other breeds of hollowing tools suit you, if and when you try them.


Exactly how many kanna blades Neil? :rolleyes: :D ( once brought out a scraper to tame a particularly recalcitrant bit of grain on something I was struggling with once. The kind of tool I'd use to smooth out a curve in a pottery bowl. http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/cool.gif )

Yea, yeah, TL. Too many. They were just an experiment with the woodturning. They are now back in their kanna blocks. They scrape beautifully, but dull quicker than HSS, and then there is all that waterstone sharpening. OK for once, but not for regular use.

BTW, Japanese woodturners scrape in a similar way using old power hacksaw blades which they hold freehand against the wood and frequently sharpen on a waterstone nearby on the lathe bench. Western scrapers that come in different profiles might work in the same way. Perhaps that is what was using?

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[NeilS]

Beautiful bowl Neil ,
the bark makes it :2tsup:

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f8/118741d1255254621t-essential-tools-your-type-turning-14in-jacaranda.jpg (http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f8/118741d1255254621-essential-tools-your-type-turning-14in-jacaranda.jpg)

Ta, Jock.

One thing to keep in mind when leaving bark is that it can cause probs going through customs into other countries. They want to quarantine and/or fumigate it, etc. It's a snag for overseas customers.

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[Manuka Jock]

Ta, Jock.

One thing to keep in mind when leaving bark is that it can cause probs going through customs into other countries. They want to quarantine and/or fumigate it, etc. It's a snag for overseas customers.

.....
I've only traveled away twice . Once to Scandinavia , and one to Oz .
Both times I went thru the green lane . In Sweden they could not see my point .
In Oz , being an Island too , they did , and I got me boots washed . :U

Its quicker 'cos there are less people declaring bio stuff , and the customs bloke appreciated the visit :2tsup: , he looked bored :D

[Cliff Rogers]

Hell, here in Oz, you can't even take bark on timber to Tassie. :rolleyes: