A Few Questions

[robduca]

Hi,
I just have a few questions to ask. I am looking at getting into wood turning to make a few bowls and such. I just want to know how to prepare the wood for this?
I have a jarrah and marri tree which are too small for slabs so i was thinking of trying to get some good turning wood out of it. I guess what i want to know is there a specific part of the tree best for turning, how do i cut the log? The trees have been down for about 14-16 months so far. Do you dry the wood out before turnng, or turn it as is?

Sorry if i seem to be asking stupid questions but as i say i am just looking at getting into it.

Thanks

Rob Duca

[Rum Pig]

Hi there Rob

There is no 1 answer for your questions.
You can turn wood green (wet) but you do need to let it dry before you do your final turn or you can let it dry after your final turn but you run the risk of splitting and warping but that can be a desired effect. I think for a learner you should turn dry and that way you do not get disappointed when the timber cracks on you.
As for cutting the logs once again there is different way for different effects but for a beginner I suggest you split it straight down the center taking out the core or pith then cut it into pieces as long as it is wide. When you split the log if it still has some moister in it then you will nee to seal the end and let it dry a bit more.
Two more tips do a search on this forum for ideas you will find more than enough info on here.
The best tip I can give you is join a local wood turning club.

I hope I have help a little. Good luck:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[Manuka Jock]

Gidday Rob ,

have a browse thru this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/best-100-turning-tips-105455/), that is in the process of being complied , and see what fits your situation.

Also , keep a lookout for members who live in your area . A shed visit is always a good start.

And ,
Welcome to the Fraternity of Fools :2tsup:


Jock

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

To expand on what Rum Pig said:

You can rough-turn the logs green, down to about 1" wall thickness and then store them away for a year or two to dry, before finish turning the ones that haven't split in the meantime... or you can stack the logs away to dry for a few years first.

The first option gets you a finished bowl more quickly, the second option gives you a wider choice of what the finished form will be and generally results in less overall wastage. ie. even if the timber splits badly, you can still make something out of it whereas if a roughed blank splits, it's only good for firewood. Rough turned blanks can also warp so badly that you can't possibly turn a round bowl out of them, which also makes them useless.

So, first you decide which of the above you want to do, maybe even a combo of the two. Some long term logs so that you're bound to get something out of your first batch, and a few rough-turned green just so's you can play with them sooner.

For green-turning, you want to cut the logs to about the same length as their diameter. To store the logs long-term, you want to cut them at least one-and-a-half times their diameter, so that you can trim away any split ends, etc. that are bound to happen during the drying process.

Either way, you'll want to split the logs long-ways down the middle, through the heart to minimise the worst splits.

After rough-turning or cutting the logs to length, you really, really want to seal the end-grain. I prefer a commercial end-grain sealer, but dipping the ends in melted wax, polystyrene dissolved in turps or even painting them with old paint is better than not sealing them.

Then stack 'em in a dry well-ventilated spot where the temperature stays fairly constant. Tin sheds aren't a good choice, as they get too hot during Summer days and too cold during winter. After that, it's the waiting game; about a year per inch of thickness. Which is why the rough-turned blanks are ready before the solid logs.

The best part of the tree? :think: The woody bit. I haven't had much success with turning twigs or leaves. The crotches and roots generally have the more complex figuring/grain pattern but in the early stages of dry-your-own I wouldn't worry too much about that. It's enough of a challenge just to get your first blank ready for turning... :;

BTW, welcome to our mania. :U

[Ed Reiss]

Hi Rob...welcome to the asylum !!

Did you get a lathe yet? What kind?

[orraloon]

Hi Rob,
I found this Wood turning lathe tips:techniques: woodturning instruction (http://www.aroundthewoods.com/)
to be helpful when starting out. Explanations and pictures. I still have a look now and then to jog the memory.
Regards
John

[robduca]

Hi Rob...welcome to the asylum !!

Did you get a lathe yet? What kind?

Havent got one yet. II am going to have a go on BIL lathe first to see if woodturning is for me then ill go look at them :D

Thanks for all the help

Rob

[hughie]

Hi Rob, welcome aboard and there are no stupid questions everybody has something to contribute.
No matter how good somebody is now, they all started at the same place your at now. :U