CA on green NIP.

[tea lady]

After everyne went home on Saturday we turned my big NIP log into an end grain bowl. (Well Me and turned it. Neil, Calm and Skew watched and tossed in comments.:rolleyes: ) Should be a beautiful piece in the end with some beautiful spalting happening. :cool: But there a few soft patches that Neil recommended be stabilized with CA. I was wondering how this would effect an oil finish. :? Would it be better to leave it be, and just have the hard burnishing oil or Danish oil stabalize it. :think: What do you reckon? :)

[dai sensei]

I was only recommending CA for the holes, thick or medium, I didn't notice the soft bits. Thin CA will stabilize soft bits, but will then seal it from the oil also.

As the bowl is green, I'd fill the holes with thick CA so there isn't any holes, sand then soak in danish and finish with burnishing. If you don't mind holes, leave them. Although the oil won't stabilize the soft bits, I'd risk it, as the thin CA will spoil look of oil finish. If the soft bits do shrink/fail once dried, I'd fill then with CA's and sand by hand.

[tea lady]

As the bowl is green, I'd fill the holes with thick CA so there isn't any holes, sand then soak in danish and finish with burnishing. If you don't mind holes, leave them. Although the oil won't stabilize the soft bits, I'd risk it, as the thin CA will spoil look of oil finish. If the soft bits do shrink/fail once dried, I'd fill then with CA's and sand by hand.

Are you on lunch too Neil? :D That was quick.

So you can CA over an oil finish? :hmm:

And thick CA is the proper stuff, not the stuff from the $2 shop isn't it? :think:

[Grumpy John]

After everyne went home on Saturday we turned my big NIP log into an end grain bowl. (Well Me and turned it. Neil, Calm and Skew watched and tossed in comments.:rolleyes: )
.......................


Didn't you notice me lurking in the background :spyme:.

[TTIT]

.......So you can CA over an oil finish? :hmm: I wouldn't :no: but I suppose you could - might be tricky getting the finish even afterwards though :shrug:


And thick CA is the proper stuff, not the stuff from the $2 shop isn't it? :think:The cheap stuff is (usually) 'medium' so it won't soak in far. You want the 'thin' stuff which means buying some from a proper shop :o:; Most woodturning supplies carry 'thin', 'medium' and 'thick' or 'gel'.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I've found that DO will happily go over CA "soaked" timber but tends to patchiness on CA "finished" timber. Does that make sense?

ie. It seems to need a bit of grain to key into, so if there's a layer of CA on the outside - over a largish area - it can cause trouble but if it has been sanded back flush to the surface it seems to be OK. Of course, that could just be me... I'm impatient when it comes to finishing.

I've never tried applying CA over DO though... I can't see any reason that it wouldn't bond but I think Neil is probably right that it'd be awkward to get an even finish that way.

[tea lady]

Didn't you notice me lurking in the background :spyme:.:doh: Missed your shy retiring self. :D (Sorry!) (I think I've even got a pic of you and Skew with curlie necklaces on. :cool: )




ie. It seems to need a bit of grain to key into, so if there's a layer of CA on the outside - over a largish area - it can cause trouble but if it has been sanded back flush to the surface it seems to be OK. Of course, that could just be me... I'm impatient when it comes to finishing.

OK! So I can put it on the patches then sand it back so there isn't big patches of CA on the surface, just "in" the grain. Then the oil finish will go in around it? :cool: Will it soak into the softt wood though, and look differant to the non CAed bits?

[dai sensei]

Are you on lunch too Neil? :D That was quick.

I don't go back to work until Wed, so just sitting around relaxing. A few blood tests this morning, so no woodturning today :(


And thick CA is the proper stuff, not the stuff from the $2 shop isn't it? :think:

The CA at the $2 shops are either thin or medium. As TTIT says, the good stuff comes in thin, medium and thick. Thin is for soaking in and binding, medium for small cracks, and thick for the larger cracks/holes.


So you can CA over an oil finish? :hmm:

Yes you can, provided the oil is completely dry (not sure about long term viability though. Numerous people use CA/Blo finish on pens.


I've found that DO will happily go over CA "soaked" timber but tends to patchiness on CA "finished" timber. Does that make sense?

That's my experience. But there is especially a difference between areas treated with thin CA and those not, you can really see the difference.

The thick CA doesn't soak in to the timber, so would be fine in the holes before oiling


I've never tried applying CA over DO though... I can't see any reason that it wouldn't bond but I think TTIT is probably right that it'd be awkward to get an even finish that way.

You could apply CA after the bowl, and oil, was dry - ie a long time after. Yes it would be difficult to get even surface, a hand sanding job, then you could apply more oil. The bowl probably wouldn't be still round anyway.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Whoops. :D

[issatree]

Hi Tea Lady,
I only use Loctite 401, & do also have 406, much runnier & takes 40+ Sec. to dry.
Went to the Elmore Field Days On Tues.6th.Oct. Found the seller of the Loctite, but was dearer than what I can buy it for. at a Market $12, His $15.20.

Asked, how do you date a bottle of Loctite, "easy he said". On the bottom of the bottle was 1 number followed by 1 letter, then another number.

So the bottle he showed me had " 8C4..." which meant 2008, March, 4th.

These bottles usually come from a Frig. when sold to you, therefore they have a shelf life of 1 year.

If I get 2 bottles, then I wrap 1 in a plastic bag & put it in the Butter Comp. of the Frig.

The other bottle stays opened, lying in a small bowl on a 30+ Deg.slant, just in my shed, so that the C/A runs back down the mouth of the bottle, after use.

If you don't do this, then the C/A boils over & that is another couple of drops lost, & they all add up.

It stays in that way until the bottle is finished.

I have had no problems in a bottle Drying Out, Summer, Winter, Autumn or Spring.

Hope this may help a little.
Regards,
issatree.

<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">

[dai sensei]

There are plenty of good wood turning suppliers around here selling 1oz bottles for around $10-12 and 2oz bottles for around $16-20, heaps cheaper than Locktite that comes in a lot smaller quantities.

The $2 shop sells the tiny tubes that would be Ok if you only use a bit, but if you are using it reasonably often, the larger bottles are far better $ and quality wise and easily available over the net.

[tea lady]

There are plenty of good wood turning suppliers around here selling 1oz bottles for around $10-12 and 2oz bottles for around $16-20, heaps cheaper than Locktite that comes in a lot smaller quantities.

The $2 shop sells the tiny tubes that would be Ok if you only use a bit, but if you are using it reasonably often, the larger bottles are far better $ and quality wise and easily available over the net.
:U OK. Will have to try some really stuff. :D

[NeilS]

Think it was Cliff who recommended storing opened CA in an air tight container with a few of those desiccating satchels that come in tablet bottles, etc.

Water, including moisture in the air, is a catalyst that sets CA (that's why it sets so quickly on our skin :oo: ). The satchels 'soak up' any moisture from the air in the container which helps to prevent the CA from setting.

Haven't had any CA go off since I've adopted that storage method.

.....

[tea lady]

Think it was Cliff who recommended storing opened CA in an air tight container with a few of those desiccating satchels that come in tablet bottles, etc.

Water, including moisture in the air, is a catalyst that sets CA (that's why it sets so quickly on our skin :oo: ). The satchels 'soak up' any moisture from the air in the container which helps to prevent the CA from setting.

Haven't had any CA go off since I've adopted that storage method.

.....:2tsup:

[Cliff Rogers]

Think it was Cliff who recommended storing opened CA in an air tight container with a few of those desiccating satchels that come in tablet bottles, etc.

Water, including moisture in the air, is a catalyst that sets CA (that's why it sets so quickly on our skin :oo: ). The satchels 'soak up' any moisture from the air in the container which helps to prevent the CA from setting.

Haven't had any CA go off since I've adopted that storage method.

.....

I didn't go as far as the desiccating satchels, I just put mine in a ziplock bag in the fridge.
I'll try the desiccating satchels as well.